Some excellent ideas Jim!
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| rudder control http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=11648 |
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| Author: | RPB [ Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | rudder control |
. I need a Hobie Classic (rudder control on the right side, for right-handed people) but, with a tankwell and the capacity of a Revolution:) I've tested Hobie Mirage, great except rudder control is on the left (just like the Native Propel) (except the old discontinued Hobie Classic has it on right side, but no tankwell in it) and I have no left hand, I imagine I could re-rig the fatory rigging on either and move control to the right side (preferble), or just not use the rudder at all (like I did in the past, requiring a paddle to steer, troll, throw paddle in water to grab a rod ...) I ordered a Sport last Sept. had to cancel the order due to my dad passing away and other things associated. About to get me a hobie now, but never tried one before today ... I have no left hand and my left arm is shorter than right one, so paddling is tougher, not impossible ... but controlling rudder in Adventure before handle clicked and broke and froze up pointing towards me, I had been reaching under legs with right hand to control the lever on the left (story below) Now I think when I ordered the Sport, I heard of a dealer modifying a left rudder control on a 2008 Sport, to the right side, not sure how, perhaps with 2008 up/down handle?... wonder if it can be done on a 2009 Revo? wonder if that voids warranty? ---------------------------------------------------- Pat loaned me his Hobie Mirage drive Adventure to try out Lake Marble Falls was named for waterfalls there, which are now submerged, except they lowered lake 7 feet, and now it's a line of rock across the lake with spaces a few inches deep between rocks sticking up above surface ...skinney water handled like a champ when fins folded up/fluttering. Lake Marble Falls is S-shaped, not a ton of wind at the ramp, some gusts, lets head to the deeper water... kayaked to the left was fine till we rounded the bend, lake lower made sort of a canyon, felt like sustained winds of 20, gusts to 25 or 35, we still headed towards dam, ... got to the dam, about 3 miles from ramp, wind got bad (worse), and we headed back ... rudder control lever clicked, handle pointed towards me, wouldn't budge, only can go in circles and wind trying to blow me over, so I raised rudder for the way back... I paddled while pedaling... I honestly would not have made it back just paddling, and wouldn't have made it that far.. I gotta get a Hobie..... Probably a Revolution with turbos (modified rudder control to right side?)... |
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| Author: | fish4ever [ Sun Jan 25, 2009 2:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Modify time |
I dont think it would really difficult changing right to left, which seems what most will say. If you are like me you will want your cake and eat it too! Still looking it over, maybe somekind of mount in front of you where you sit or the hatch itself, it might be inside the hull in front of you something like a handle or bar , doesnt seem like much torque is needed to push rudder left or right. Will think over and see....Sorry cant be of much help here just thought some ideas would help.....Good Luck..Steve |
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| Author: | Revo_1756 [ Mon Jan 26, 2009 7:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hi RPB, Have you considered a wand that could be under your legs attached the the rudder lever to push/pull it with your right hand. The location of the revo rudder control could let you do this. You could achieve it by drilling a small hole into the handle end and attaching a wand with a small snap ring and use the wand as a push/pull and possibly even add a small rubber ball on the end for better grip. The wand could be a 1/4" dia. fiberglass rod or even a wand from window blinds. Just an idea that might work for you. Revo |
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| Author: | RPB [ Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks guys, I'm pretty inventive. I'm going to re-ask the dealers if they can do it, since they are familiar with the "mechanics" of it more than I am.. I'm still open to any ideas if they won't do it. I just hope it doesn't void warranty if I get some unrelated problem later. |
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| Author: | JimL [ Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Note about rudder controls... |
FYI... on all of my Hobies (except the old Classic I used to own), I've removed the rudder bar/ pivot shaft unit and reshaped the cone spring (added a double bend in one spring wind) to reduce the pressure against the bottom of the deck. I also use a little Toyota Body Grease "M" (will not damage or soften any plastics and does not collect moisture - specially formulated for moonroof glides and plastic links). I do not need to disconnect the steering lines to do this. This makes the rudder much easier to turn, while still maintaining excellent tracking. With this in mind, it would be pretty easy to make an extension from the bar vertical shaft (that connects the lines) that would go straight down inside the hull, allowing a pair of cross links to a new rudder control on the right side. The new rudder control could be punched through using original Hobie shaft and handle parts, but you may need to make a plastic (bolt in) block that provides enough thickness for the pivot shaft (to prevent wobble). As I see it, you would not even disconnect the original lines, just make a clamp on connector for your left side shaft extension (and for the added right side shaft/bar). You'll need to fabricate a lower bar at the bottom end of the left extension, set at 90 degrees to the upper one (where the steering lines are already attached). Here's what would make it work: Make a rigid shaft "pivot/link" that keeps the spacing between your right and left vertical shaft extensions (this would look like a long connecting rod, positioned near the bottom of the vertical shaft extensions). This will keep the shafts from binding sideways and make the steering feel normal (no excessive lash). I would use VERY light spring pressure on both sides, and cut the extra handle off of the original left, to prevent accidental external jamming. You may have to use a Sport to pull this off, because there is enough vertical height under the rudder pivot (and right side "trays") to allow the shaft extensions, cross lines, and connecting rod to pass below the seat/storage tray depth. Hope this is helpful. Regards, JimL |
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| Author: | JimL [ Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | One more note.... |
If you need a drawing of my idea....let me know. I'll scratch something out that I can scan and post. JimL |
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| Author: | Roadrunner [ Wed Jan 28, 2009 12:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Some excellent ideas Jim!
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