Hobie Forums :: View topic - Transporting Kayaks

JimL wrote:

A note about webbing tie down, when spanning some distance (more than a few inches). ALWAYS twist free runs of webbing into a spiral (the longer the reach, the more twists required). This method keeps the flat strap from getting into high frequency vibration (and the horrid buzzing that goes with it!) caused by high speed air flow.

That vibration is transferred into the kayak, the rack, the rack mount hardware, and into the car. It is, effectively, high speed, repeated, tensioning applied to everything in the system. The kayak will be fine, probably....no bets on the rack, or rack mounts, or retaining hardware. You may, unfortunately, find the weakest link!

You may have noticed the spiral wound pattern on all modern automobile mast-type antennas? That's what the spiral is for...to keep the antenna mount from coming loose in the fender or roof, and prevent cracking of the body sheet metal. This is especially true when driving in rain (which adds a whole 'nother layer to the buffeting frequencies!)

Regards, JimL

You are correct. The vibration can cause failure easily. The webbibg will begin to tear at stress points. I have used the twisting method and have also tied a string around the midpoint in runs of webbing straps. That will also work to eliminate the vibration. At the very least, it can be greatly annoying.

Author:	emk [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:25 pm ]
Post subject:	Transporting Kayaks
Hello- New member here with a question- I have 2 Hobies - Adventure & Revolution - I have an 09 Subaru Forester with a Thule Rack System and Yakima Hullraiser Aeros. My question - I normally use 2 tie-downs on each boat when going to the local lakes and rivers. I don't bother tieing down the fore and aft. Next week we're going to Lake Michigan via the interstate. How do you all tie down the bow and stern? The only thing on the boat that I see is the handle for carrying. Am I missing something? Is the handle strong enough? thanks emk

Author:	ET Hobie guy [ Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:43 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Transporting Kayaks
When making long hauls, I always tie down the bow and very seldom, the stern, although it should be tied off as well. A great way I learned to tie the bow is to purchase a short length of good webbing (maybe 3/4 to 1 inch wide). Open the hood of your vehicle and somewhere near the corners you should see fender bolts. 1 in each corner. Take a piece of the webbing and double it. On the tag ends make holes that the bolt will pass through. I heated my bolts and melted a hole through both ends. Remove the bolt and pass through both ends of webbing. Replace the bolts with webbing. You will now have a webbing loop that can be used to pass a line through and tie off to the handles.The webbing will easily poke out of the gap at the edge of the hood. When your are not hauling boats, you can open the hood and tuck the loops down and out of the way. I also found that shorter lengths are desireable. Too long, and the webbing loops will buzz at highway speeds. Thanks to Bobby Narramore of High Trails in Dallas for this tip. It works great!

Author:	emk [ Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:55 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Transporting Kayaks
Great - this is very helpful! Where on the boat do you actually attach the line? The only thing that I see in the bow is the carrying handle. thanks emk

Author:	BNelsonR [ Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:48 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Transporting Kayaks
The carrying handle is where I have seen them tied to. I use a trailer for my Sport & Revo. so its not so much an issue as the wind doesn't effect them. Bruce

Author:	ET Hobie guy [ Tue Jul 28, 2009 4:56 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Transporting Kayaks
I have always tied off to the handles. Never had a problem. I don't think there is a lot of lift as I carry my boats upside down.

Hobie Forums http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/

Transporting Kayaks http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=13257	Page 1 of 1

Author:	JimL [ Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:33 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Transporting Kayaks - webbing caution
A note about webbing tie down, when spanning some distance (more than a few inches). ALWAYS twist free runs of webbing into a spiral (the longer the reach, the more twists required). This method keeps the flat strap from getting into high frequency vibration (and the horrid buzzing that goes with it!) caused by high speed air flow. That vibration is transferred into the kayak, the rack, the rack mount hardware, and into the car. It is, effectively, high speed, repeated, tensioning applied to everything in the system. The kayak will be fine, probably....no bets on the rack, or rack mounts, or retaining hardware. You may, unfortunately, find the weakest link! You may have noticed the spiral wound pattern on all modern automobile mast-type antennas? That's what the spiral is for...to keep the antenna mount from coming loose in the fender or roof, and prevent cracking of the body sheet metal. This is especially true when driving in rain (which adds a whole 'nother layer to the buffeting frequencies!) Regards, JimL

Author:	ET Hobie guy [ Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:15 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Transporting Kayaks - webbing caution
JimL wrote: A note about webbing tie down, when spanning some distance (more than a few inches). ALWAYS twist free runs of webbing into a spiral (the longer the reach, the more twists required). This method keeps the flat strap from getting into high frequency vibration (and the horrid buzzing that goes with it!) caused by high speed air flow. That vibration is transferred into the kayak, the rack, the rack mount hardware, and into the car. It is, effectively, high speed, repeated, tensioning applied to everything in the system. The kayak will be fine, probably....no bets on the rack, or rack mounts, or retaining hardware. You may, unfortunately, find the weakest link! You may have noticed the spiral wound pattern on all modern automobile mast-type antennas? That's what the spiral is for...to keep the antenna mount from coming loose in the fender or roof, and prevent cracking of the body sheet metal. This is especially true when driving in rain (which adds a whole 'nother layer to the buffeting frequencies!) Regards, JimL You are correct. The vibration can cause failure easily. The webbibg will begin to tear at stress points. I have used the twisting method and have also tied a string around the midpoint in runs of webbing straps. That will also work to eliminate the vibration. At the very least, it can be greatly annoying.

Author:	Roadrunner [ Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:29 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Transporting Kayaks
I like rope. Inexpensive, easy to use. Use loops for quick connect, easy tie off.

Author:	ET Hobie guy [ Sat Aug 01, 2009 5:20 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Transporting Kayaks - webbing caution
ET Hobie guy wrote: JimL wrote: A note about webbing tie down, when spanning some distance (more than a few inches). ALWAYS twist free runs of webbing into a spiral (the longer the reach, the more twists required). This method keeps the flat strap from getting into high frequency vibration (and the horrid buzzing that goes with it!) caused by high speed air flow. That vibration is transferred into the kayak, the rack, the rack mount hardware, and into the car. It is, effectively, high speed, repeated, tensioning applied to everything in the system. The kayak will be fine, probably....no bets on the rack, or rack mounts, or retaining hardware. You may, unfortunately, find the weakest link! You may have noticed the spiral wound pattern on all modern automobile mast-type antennas? That's what the spiral is for...to keep the antenna mount from coming loose in the fender or roof, and prevent cracking of the body sheet metal. This is especially true when driving in rain (which adds a whole 'nother layer to the buffeting frequencies!) Regards, JimL You are correct. The vibration can cause failure easily. The webbibg will begin to tear at stress points. I have used the twisting method and have also tied a string around the midpoint in runs of webbing straps. That will also work to eliminate the vibration. At the very least, it can be greatly annoying. I guess I shouldn't cause alarm by stating vibration can cause failure easily. It just wears on the webbing and will cause it to fray somewhat. The webbing idea I posted above really works great and gives an easily accessible tie off point. Good webbing is very strong.

Page 1 of 1	All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/