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2011 revolution drive well http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=68616 |
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Author: | hevysrf [ Sun Jul 04, 2021 4:46 pm ] |
Post subject: | 2011 revolution drive well |
My Revolution finally developed the crack/leak in front portion of the drive well, I will attempt to repair with AA-3035. My question concerns the bronze insert under the white plastic button just forward of the well on the bottom, can this be removed for resealing? |
Author: | mmiller [ Wed Jul 07, 2021 9:12 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: 2011 revolution drive well |
I would not remove the brass part. |
Author: | hevysrf [ Sun Jul 11, 2021 1:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 2011 revolution drive well |
Thanks Matt |
Author: | hevysrf [ Sun Jul 11, 2021 1:48 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 2011 revolution drive well |
My local certified dealer said there wasn't much they could do. https://www.flickr.com/photos/32491824@ ... ed-public/ They suggested I try a little epoxy, so I sourced some AA3035, some G-Flex 650, 1/8 sheet HDPE and some fine weave fiberglass cloth. https://www.flickr.com/photos/32491824@N07/51305109241/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/32491824@N07/51304314677/in/dateposted-public/ |
Author: | hevysrf [ Sun Jul 11, 2021 1:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 2011 revolution drive well |
I started off by cutting the HDPE to a likely shape and using the AA3035 to bond it to the outside. https://www.flickr.com/photos/32491824@ ... ed-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/32491824@ ... ed-public/ |
Author: | hevysrf [ Sun Jul 11, 2021 2:36 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 2011 revolution drive well |
On the inside I used the G-Flex to laminate some fiberglass cloth to the hull just forward of the well. I then used some G-Flex thickened with wood flour and fumed silica to reinforce the area just above the crack ( brown area in photo) https://www.flickr.com/photos/32491824@ ... ed-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/32491824@ ... ed-public/ I sanded, flame treated, and alcohol wiped the G-Flex areas, but only used an alcohol wipe on the AA3035 bond. The G-flex was $26 and the AA3035 was $46, so this is not an inexpensive experiment. Hopefully next summer I can report the repair has held up. I can report that after a 24 hr cure time, the hull will hold water. |
Author: | hevysrf [ Sat Aug 14, 2021 4:06 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 2011 revolution drive well |
About 10 hours on repair, 8 in protected water, 2 out in the bay. Repair seems to be holding, no water leaking in at drive well. |
Author: | hevysrf [ Fri Oct 08, 2021 12:22 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 2011 revolution drive well |
My season is just about over, repair is holding up well. I have also changed from turbo to st fins, so hull stresses are likely less. I'm in the northeast, temperature will start dropping soon, we'll see if the loc-tite and G-flex can handle the expansion contraction cycles. |
Author: | hevysrf [ Fri Sep 02, 2022 10:40 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: 2011 revolution drive well |
A full season on this repair, it seems the AA3035 is doing a fine job, the HPDE bond to the outside of the hull is strong and watertite. The G-flex did not stay bonded to the inside. |
Author: | stk [ Thu Aug 29, 2024 6:09 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: 2011 revolution drive well |
hevysrf wrote: A full season on this repair, it seems the AA3035 is doing a fine job, the HPDE bond to the outside of the hull is strong and watertite. The G-flex did not stay bonded to the inside. I know it's been a couple years, but if you're still on the forum can you let me know if the repair is still holding? I've struggled for some time with cracks in these ~2010 Hobie Kayaks (both an Outback and an Adventure) and haven't had anything that lasted more than a few months. Reading your post sounds like the AA3035 compound with a shaped piece of HDPE is the way to go? And don't bother trying to patch the inside? One conclusion I've reached -- you should never use Turbo fins on these boats. The stress is just too much on the drive well -- maybe that's changed with later models. |
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