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| New Rudder Castings on a Hobie 18 http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=11742 |
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| Author: | Manatee [ Sat Feb 07, 2009 5:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | New Rudder Castings on a Hobie 18 |
The old (circa 1979) rudder castings on my 18 finally succumbed to corrosion. While installing the new ones, I can't seem to get them to go on without binding against the gudgeon. Specifically, the lower part of the rudder casting seems to rub against the screw head (that came with the kit) and the gudgeon back plate itself. The castings are installed with the black plastic insert on the underside side of the upper pintle and the bottom side of the lower (so there is plastic between the gudgeon and the casting). While I could try a flat head screw, it seems as though the casting would still rub against the gudgeon back plate (flat part of the gudgeon through which the screws pass). This doesn't seem normal? The contact is of a nature that would allow it to "wear in" over time. But it just doesn't seem right - especially considering that the old one was extremely smooth (especially after 30 yrs of use). Either it is poor workmanship on the parts, or I've done something wrong on the installation - the instructions are pretty basic. Thoughts? |
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| Author: | MUST5429 [ Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:08 pm ] |
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If you are changing over from the old "style" rudder castings to the new "style" rudder castings, you will need to relocate the lower gudgeon. Take the lower gudgeon off, move it up until the lower holes line up with the upper set of screws. Mark and drill two new holes where the top two holes on the gudgeon are now located. The aluminum plate that is laid up in the transom will then need to be threaded to accept the two new screws that you will have to buy because the two screws that used to hold the bottom of the gudgeon in its old location will need to be coated with silicone and rethreaded into those old holes to prevent bees and such from flying into your hull when it is not on the water. The other benefit from plugging those holes is of course that it keeps water out. <Grin> If you already knew all that, and I have insulted you by explaining it, I apologize. As I re-read your posting and thought about it a bit, I believe my new style castings have an interference issue with one of the gudgeon screws when turned all the way. Congrats on your new rudder castings Stephen |
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| Author: | Manatee [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've re-tapped and drilled the appropriate holes and used the new gudgeons (removing the old) per the instructions. After such a long time, I actually don't have to worry about plugging a few of the holes as the screw heads twisted off, leaving the screw shaft in the hole! It looks like flat head screws should take care of the issue. It just seems strange that the casting should rub against the screw head or the back plate on the gudgeon. I've readjusted everything, and it doesn't seem to be a problem on one side, but is on the other. I am going to try swapping around the gudgeons to see if the problem migrates, although they all look exactly the same. I appreciate your insight. I have loved the boat. And, despite the new hardware and paint, the hulls are getting soft. Her days may be numbered. However, three generations have sailed her hard on both coasts. Couldn't ask for any more. |
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| Author: | Harry Murphey [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 7:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | H18 Rudder Castings |
As usual Stephen is spot on ... If Stephen doesn't mind I'll add a couple hard-learned tricks First, do not forget to use the "plastic bushings" ie: "Nyliner" Hobie P/N 806011 in the castings/on the rudder pins ... these are very important ... SS Rudder Pin vs Cast Alum Casting .... quess which will wear, and it's not the cheaper rudder pin. Second, install a SS 3/8" Flat Washer between the top of the top gudgeon and the bottom of the top of the rudder casting .... the SS Gudgeon wears into the aluminum rudder casting as the rudder and casting is hanging off the gudgeon. This will act as a "bearing surface". Third, Rudder Cams ... unlike your old castings the newwer castings go through the plastic rudder cams fairly guickly, so ... get spares w/ the special screws (flat head amorphic studs). To remove the factory installed cams (the first set) you can do it two ways .... CAREFULLY drill the rivet out ... or w/ a hacksaw CAREFULLY cut down between the plastic cam and the casting. Both methods will work ... but it is easier to ruin the casting when using the "drill out the rivet" technic if the drill bit 'slips' ... the hacksaw technic tends to "scratch up" the casting a little but is harder to completely ruin the casting. I also "fill" the hollow side of the rudder cam w/ MarineTex (black) before installing the new cam ... it supports the center "boss" and the cam lasts alot longer. Murray's has the best rudder pins .... Hollow SS Rudder pins ... excellent, lightest and strongest (IMO) I carry on the boat a "thin" blade puttie knife (SS) .... why???? I use it to push down on the rudder plunger P/N 50312201 if the rudder cam does not rotate. Place the puttie knife VERTICALLY between the casting and cam w/ the blade sitting on the plunger ... then push DOWN with one hand and rotate the cam w/ the other. Works like a charm every time. You'll need to redrill your rudderblades ... the top casting hole only if I remember correctly. Have you done this yet??? I recommend you find another H18 already w/ the new system and use a blade from that boat as a templete ... if you have problems let us know ... we'll see what we can do to help. (But both Stephen and I live far away ... indifferent directions) Where are your hulls getting soft??? That can be fixed sometimes ... easily if done soon enough ... but it can be a tedious job |
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| Author: | Rick Buchanan [ Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
When I sold my 18 to Chris Jernigan, who owns "The Cat House", he got two brand new, never used lower castings with it. Try giving him a call 1 800 9000 CAT (228). |
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| Author: | Manatee [ Mon Feb 09, 2009 4:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks to everyone who has chimed in. I moved the gudgeons around. One was clearly manufactured on a day when the Chinese corvee labor was disgruntled - it is distorted and mis-aligned - poor workmanship. A bit of pounding and the use of one flathead 12-24 SS screw and it works fine without binding, although the casting is still very close to the gudgeon. Everything is back together, seems to work and seems to be aligned. So, it is to the water this Saturday. Thanks again. Wish I had found this forum earlier. There is a lot of great information. |
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