| Hobie Forums http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/ |
|
| Useful information http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=11891 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | gpfeifer [ Wed Mar 04, 2009 12:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Useful information |
So last year I put my boat together for the first time. I had very little experience. Without the help of Harry, I would not have put it together and it would still be sitting there. He gave me valuable information and here is a copy of the thread. I hope it helps someone like it helped me. |
|
| Author: | gpfeifer [ Wed Mar 04, 2009 12:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | here is the post |
We'll start with some simple things. The serial numbers are inscribed/engraved on the transom usually. Can you identify what a daggerboard is? you should have (2) of those. There should be (2) crossbars: the rear cross bar is the straight one, does it have a metal "hoop" thing riveted to it in the middle? The curved crossbar, that is the front crossbar, does it have a mast-strep mounted in the middle with a SS rod through the crossbar about 9-12" tall where it meets a SS rod that goes to each end of the crossbar? (The whole thing kind-of likes like a bow) Rudders Blades: are they black with a silver label near the top,if so the are origonal EPO's (mid80's to early 90's), they could be white, (those are early 80's). Rudder Castings: there are two different systems, an early pre 87', and a late/currently available post 87'. The easiest way for me to explain a foolproof way to tell is to look at the rudder cams (locking cams) in the lowwer casting, is it a aluminum "hook" or a black plastic round kind-of thing.( The castings are visually different but I can't explain it too well with words) Is there a round piece of 1" pipe maybe 6' long if the rudder system is apart that maybe the Tiller crossbar that connects the starbard and port rudders together.  Those are the basic main parts for the hulls/platform ... do you have the tramp? It should be two big pieces w/ a strip that maybe in the rear crossbar.  Contact Murray's Marine and order a set of new SS bolts/hardware to assemble the boat. You said "BEACH HOUSE" that implies salt water, yes? You will need (4) sets of the "outside" bolts and the (2) long SS allen head cap screws for the front crossbar inside, and the (2) shorter SS allen head cap head screws for the rear crossbar. When you go to assemble the boat first clean the treads in the crossbar with the proper sized Die and be sure to use "antisieze" on the threads.  Order a new set of SS rudder pins from Murrays, NOT Hobie, Murrays are much better. Be sure to get the plastic bushings also, very very important!!! When I get time tomorrow I'll get out my H-18 exploded view w/part numbers and get the part #'s for the bolts/Allen Head Cap (machine) screws for the crossbars. It is a tap (a dye cuts threads on the outside of a rod, a tap cuts threads on the inside of a hole) actually, you use it in this case to clean the threads of corrosion so it will thread/unthread properly. The "antisieze" compound comes in a tube at the auto parts store. It prevents the bolt from corroding/siezing to the threads. Those four allen head screws are used up under/through the gunwale(lip around the hulls) threading into the crossbar, and are just plain BIG TROUBLE if they sieze up or break off.  Murrays SS Rudder Pins are cheaper, stronger, and lighter (they are hollow tube), the plastic bushings are used with the rudder pins/lowwer casting to prevent the SS pin ($20.00)from wearing away the Aluminum($150.00) Lowwer Rudder Casting. You place (1) at each place the pin passes through the casting or (2) per side. These little plastic bushings save you BIG $$$'s Hi there this is Greg we talked a while ago about the hobie cat 18, I am putting it together and I ran into a problem framing it. At front inboard the bolt is not screwing in on the starboard side but it screws in on the port side. How can I fix this>? Can you tell if there are threads in there?  Step one: take a bolt to a Hardware Store and match it up to the proper sized tap  ... it is standard 3/8" bolt if I remember correctly ... but there are several different thread pitchs/counts for a 3/8" bolt that is why you need to "match it up". take the crossbar ... turn it upside down (off the boat) using alittle oil you maybe able to  clean the threads out ... this if you are "lucky". Then assemble w/ anti-sieze compound on the threads.  If luck is not on you side you will need to replace the threaded insert that is inside the crossbar ... disassemble the crossbar, you will need to remove the dolphin striker" .... go slow, do not heat the threads on the dolphin striker up!!! Lubricate it well w/ "Rustbuster" or else you create another problem. next remove the endcap. now you will notice two rivits on either side of the hole that recieves the allenhead cap screw ... drill these out ( I use a 1/2" drill bit and carefully remove only the rivet head vs "drilling out" the rivet) ... now the cast aluminum backing block that holds the SS threaded insert will/can be removed !!! I would order a new backing block w/ insert ... you can replace only the insert but that requires a "press" to remove/re-install it. Reverse process and assemble crossbar Hi, I was wondering how to put the righting system together? Also How do I know if the shrouds,forstay, and trap wires are in good condition. The white covering if yellow now. Does that mean its not good? No the yellowing of the shroud covers just indicates that they are old , which does not effect their strength BUT ........  First and formost ....if the "stick" comes down unexpectly it can pretty much ruin you day and possibly get some-one HURT and damage the boat in the process so the biggest issue is keeping the "stick up" .... if a trap wire breaks usually what happens is some-one goes swimming (splash) and maybe you flip the boat (SPLASH)  Inspect the wires for any kinks, broken strands, rust at the terminals, split terminals .... disguard and replace if any of these issues are found. As you probably do not know how old they are I would replace the shrouds and the lowwer forstay, keeping the old wires for emergency spares (and parts for other projects). The Upper Forstay is one guage larger then the rest so it has a tendency to last a little longer but that is next along w/ the bridles (since there are two bridles the load is split if the "rig" is properly tensioned (ie: no slop/slack).  I would order the rigging from Now there is a little trick we do w/ the shrouds for racing ... we order them 1 1/2" shorter then the "stock" Hobie length and use the 10-hole side adjusters (not the 8-hole adjusters that came standard years ago) .... this places the clevis pin pretty much in the center of the adjuster when the mast rack& tension is properly done (thats how my boat is done). There should be a twist toggle between the adjuster and the anchor pin in the hull ... I have never seen a twist toggle fail (only wear our w/ sloppy holes) but the anchor pin is another story ... they break w/ a LOUD bang ... replace them also (Hobie p/n20100000) Does your boat have a SS Plate (Anchor Plate p/n 64100001))  under the gunwale on the side of the hull??? sometimes the anchor bolts have been pulling through the gunwales/deck ... if not call Hobie (800) HOBIE-49 ask for Matt Miller ... have your boat's serial number availible (located on the transom) ... they used to have a warranty program for those and also for under the front crossbar while the warranty progrm maybe over they still sell one set for each location, (2 for the shrouds, 4 for the front crossbar) at a reduced price.  A couple of tricks ... 1) check you Mast bearing (p/n 60110000), I would replace that and place/install a H16 mast wafer under/between the bearing and mast step (you'll need to drill a hole in the wafer), this acts as a "frictionless surface allowing the mast to rotate easier and extending the life of the bearing GREATLY. Note: when leaving the boat for extended periods w/ the mast up tie a line from the rotator to the rear crossbar to "lock/fix" the mast in place and not just rotate freely w/ the wind  2) Instead of using clevis pins w/ rings for the bridles/hulls attachment and the twist toggle/anchor pin points I use "shackles w/ 1/4"captive pins" ... it is more positive as I have seen many rings pulled out/off and it gives you somewhere to tie a line to when needed ... install them so that if the pin comes out (if using looses pin shackles) so that the pin will fall on the boat ... "pin head up" for the bridles and pin head in-board for the shrouds ... tape all other rings down w/ electrical tape.  3) Order SS rudder pins from Murray's ... cheaper, stronger and lighter. DO NOT forget the little white bushings (nyliner p/n8061011). They prevent the SS RudderPin ($20.00) from wearing out the Lowwer Rudder Casting ($150.00). Replace as required.  Oh, you asked about righting line systems .... the simplest, cheapest and BEST is approximently 20' of line tied to the dolphin striker ... I ordered and permently tied to my tramp a Murray's "Tramp Pack" ( p/n 31-1405BL) and store the righting line in there along w/ my "throwable cushion" that the "Marine Police" will ticket you for not having on a 18' boat!!! I used a 25'  7/16 "dock line" that I shorten slightly ... install it w/ the eyeslice can be used to hook on your trap harness when trying to right the boat ... tie it to the dolphin striker, go over the tramp .... around the one hull and it should reach just short of the other hull ... The tramp pack allows you to easily reach the righting line when the boat is on its side and throw it over the upper hull ... the most of the fancy systems have a tendency to drag in the water and are hard to deploy ... reduce the moment arm/leverage rquiring more wieght to right the boat. Hook the eyesplice onto you trap harness and you crew can "climb" onto you (or the other way around) and you don't have to rely on shear arm strength. Thanks for all the information. I have a righting system that has a bag and a line with a clip on the end. Where do I put it on the boat? The Dolphin striker? Also I have a ton of lines Which lines go where? How do set up and put the main sheet line together? And all the other lines? Tie one end of the righting line to the "Dolphin Striker" ... I think the clip is so you can hook it on you trap harness and just hang on it, keeping you hands free ... make sure that it is long enough !!!!! Tie the bag on/to the tramp ... how big is the bag??? Remember about the "throwable cushion" the "Marine Police"  are get really vicious in NJ, writing tickets everwhere for anything they can find (or not find) ... how are they on Long Island???  Do you have the Jib sheet Blocks w/ cars that slide into the tracks on the hulls??? They maybe either "Seaways" or "Harkens" blocks .... let me know which ... Hows the jib? Are there two small blocks tied to the Jib Clew?  What kind of "Main Sheet Blocks do you have ... you should have two, an upper and lowwer ... count the # of pulleys (ie shives/wheels) ... Let me know ... do you know what a "becket" is on a block????  Do you have a tiller stick??? A really long white one ... an adjustable aluminum ... a "black fiberglass one ??? You could use instead the next smaller size Harken Exit Block Model H291 if you wish ... they didn't have them years ago when I origonally configured this system. The H291 uses Harken "Micro" blocks instead of the larger "Big Bullet Block" on the H140  The Boom Hanger/Bail/Becket, Hobie P/N 10760000 is what you want to install near the bottom of the mast to attach the Harken Micro Double Block.  Note if you purchase instead Item D in the Murrays Catalog you will need to change out the single Micro and replace it w/ a double ... so it will cost you maybe $40.00 or $50.00 more then if you piece it together ... I don't think that metal mounting plate is worth that extra expense.  Yep, that is a H18 .... maybe mid- 80's ( if it was post 88' it would have a "Comp-tip" on the mast) ... it has the anchor plate supports for the front crossbar and shroud anchor bolts ... you also have the post 87' rudder system (thats good also) ... I think you have the later mast step ( a larger foot print as to spread the load out on the crossbar ) but I can not tell for sure from the picture.  Traveler Blocks w/ cars: I can't tell whether they are "Seaways" or "Harkens" ... I think "Seaways" due to the all metal cam cleat ... look on the side plates they will be marked ... install them w/ the locking pin AFT !!! To install the "jib sheet LINE ( Oh, there is no such thing as "rope" on a boat ... it is a "line" once it is tied to a boat !!! )  The jib sheet LINE is the black line I do believe ... now tie it to the "becket" on the jib sheet block ... run it up and through the small block on the jib .... back through the jib block on the hull ... across the tramp to the other side through that jib sheet block .... up to the jib and around that small block and back to the jib sheet block attaching it to that becket. A becket is on the jib sheet blocks that you installed in the track and is the pointed end w/ a small plastic "spacer" kind of hour-glass shaped. Can you tie a "bowland" knot ???? Most of us tie the small blocks to the jib w/ a pigtail approx 9-12" long, attached to the jib using/made of 1/8" "Amsteel" ... to remove the jib we untie the small blocks or you can just use a shackle. ( more wieght on the jib make it collapse in lite airs/winds, amsteel is lighter! )  You have a stock 7X1 Main Sheet Stack ( Thats good also) ... your main sheet is the "blue" LINE ... comfirm that is a slightly larger dia then the black line. The "bottom" blocks are the one w/ the cam cleat and the triple and single below it ... the top blocks are the triple w/ a becket I like to hang my stack from the rear most "boom bail" on the boom, this will help induce mast rotation because of forward pressure on the boom ( your'll see when you have the boat rigged)  Now I do not have that type of mainsheet stack on my H18 I have a what is called a "Low Profile" 7X1 stack ... I do have it on my P19 , I just need to go look at it as it is in my boat box at my Yacht Club and a just can not work/visualize  it out in my head tonight .... I think it is through the bottom single ... to the top left: back to front .. to bottom left : back to front ... center top:front to back ... center bottom: back to front ...right top: front to back ... bottom right: back to front ... up to the becket in the center. I think this will run "clean" w/ no lines rubbing on each other ( if I've got it right !! I am a little confused when it came to the jib. Is there two lines or one? Because there's two wheel things. Also How to I put up the main halyard? And the jib halyard. I have a wire connected to one line for the jib halyard. Do I need another line? How do I connect the dagger boards? I have all different size shock cords. Which Size? That's try and "un-confuse" you.  The "wheel" thing that the line goes /runs on, by itself is called the sheave ... place it in a housing: its a pulley or block ... if there are (3) shives it's a Triple Block. Ex: on your forestay (between the lowwer and upper) you have a metal housing w/ a removable sheave" that the jib halyard turns around, Ok We'll talk a little later about that particular part.  You have what is called "continuous" jib sheet system" this is the best system, there is a a system that has two seperate jibsheet lines and alot of "Monohulls" use that .... but because of the width of a catamaran we use a "continuous system" ... this allows you to be on the windward side and pick-up the jib sheet near you ... "take up the slack" and you can adjust the jibsheet on the other side of the boat, Ok? (we will do something similar w/ the mainsheet and main traveler)  Install the "Jib Blocks in the "Jib Traveler track" by removing the "black" plastic stopper at the aft/rear and sliding the car w/ the jib block into it ... remember to put the 'Locking pin/post" to the rear/aft .... reinstall the stopper at the rear of the track. Now you should have two little pulleys w/ a shackle that will attach to the "Jib" ... as I mentioned before most of us racing now use a small/short piece of 1/8"dia "Amsteel" line ( a pigtail) to tie the blocks to the jib instead of the shackle .... this allows us to use a shorter jib sheet and eliminates the shackle, removing wieght that pulls/collapses the jb when the wind goes lite, Ok?  We take a 36" long piece of 1/8' Amsteel find the middle ... tie that point to the clew of the jib, hold the two sides together and at about 6-8" down tie a knot; knotting the two sides together ... this leaves you w/ about 12-14" long to tie the individual blocks to each end. this little trick helps you pul the jib through/around the mast when you tack the boat: it will look like a upside down Y .... or you could just use a shackle w/ the (2) sm blocks. the "pigtail" also allows the jibsheet line to twist or untwist, w/ the shackle you need to align the blocks so that there are no twists in the sheetline. You may need to adjust the length of the pigtail so that you can fully sheet the jib tight when sailing ... each sail/boat is slightly different, Ok.  Now as I discribed before tie the black line to the becket on the jib block (in the track) ... go out to the jib and through the sm pulley ... back around the jib block, around the sheave exiting through the cam-cleat ... across the tramp to the other side ... through the cam-cleat and around the sheave ... up to and through the sm block ... back to the becket on the jib block in that track and tie.  Daggerboards: they just slide into the daggerboard trunks/wells .... there should be a loop of line tied th the daggerboard ... that is for pulling the daggerboard up tie a piece of 1/4" bungee through that same hole then you attach the bungee to that metal ring in front of your front crossbar ... tension it so it will hold the daggerboard "up" by pulling it forward in the trunk. I use a plastic snap hook so I can remove my daggerboards and store them instead of just tieing them to the metal rings, but that is not really neccessary. Also inspect your daggerboard trunks for cracks or wear points !!!  Jib Halyard: Remember that I said we would "get back to tha Sheave in the metal housing" ... the no#1 reason for jib halyard replacement is that there is slop betwwn the sheave and the housing and the jib halyard "jumps" off the sheave and gets pinched between the two fraying/breaking the wire ( and it is a (censored) to get the jib down) ... check for that ... if so you "squeeze the housing together by placing a washer on the outside between the housing and the cotterpin this will save you alot of trouble later !!!!  Do you have a sm pulley at one end of the of the jib halyard?   How long is the small piece of line 2' or 20' ??? If you have the sm pulley make sure the sm piece of line is tied THROUGH the center pin/rivet ... this is IMPORTANT .... now tie the other longer line (1/8"dia) to the short line (you will remove the "long" line when the jib is up ) ... next attach to jib to the small shackle and feed the long line INSIDE the zipper pocket along w/ the forestay ... start zippering and hoisting the jib ... REMEMBER BOTH THE FORESTAY AND JIB HALYARD ARE INSIDE THE POCKET !!!! when the jib is hoisted attach the foot of the jib to tha adjuster rack on the "furler" w/ a shackle , untie the long piece of line ... wrap the short piece of line down through the shackle back op through the small pulley several times/wraps .... tension and tie off. Now I have a another shackle on the adjuster rack (instead of a clevis pin ) this gives me a "cleaner" turning point for the short line instead of using the same shackle for both jib attachment and sm line. Its a little neater.  Note: you must have TENSIONED the "rig" before hoisting the jib !!! W/ a H16 you use the jib halyard to tension the rig .... totally different!!!!  The main halyard is in the "luff track" it goes in the mast base, around the sm sheave, up the lufftrack and exits at the mast head around the the sheave on top ... there should be a metal ring and a twist shackle attached there to the halyard ... Clean and apply "SAILKOTE" to the luff track and sail (several applications) tension the battens slightly ... NOW FOR THE OL' TIMERS TRICK .... your halyard hook should be on the left side w/ a flipper thingie ... Yes? ...  before attaching the halyard to the sail put several "twists" in the line so that the ring will want to naturally "flip" onto the hook ....looking down at the ring twist it "counter-clockwise" attach to sail .... ( boat is head into the wind, Ok ) ... hoist main ( I wrap the halyard line around my waist and pull w/ my leggs ) .... when the ring is about 6" below the hook, close my eyes and gently pull until I "Feel" the ring touch the underside of the hook ... at this point you only need to pulling 2" more of the halyard ... so very gently pull/ease the ring up and onto the hook ... to lowwer ... YANK the sail up the final 3-4" ... the flipper thingie will flip down covering the slot in the hook and the ring will slide over the hook and the sail will slide on down. Take a look at the flipper thingie before you raise the mast and understand how it works ... if the sail doesn't slide down on its own but hangs there you need more "Sailkote"  Do you have the "Trap bungies" on the boat under the gunwales???? Could that be what some of your bungie cords are for?  Main Sheetline/ Main Traveler Sheetline: I suspect you have a continuopus system there also ...  take free end of the mainsheet and feed it through the cam cleat on the rear crossbar ... then through the main traveler car in the rear of the rear crossbar .... then tie to that "Hoop" thing at the center of the rear crossbar. There are many products that will "restore" the Shine to the hulls ... the gelcoat has oxided and the are some "Starbrite" ... "Johnson" .... this weekend I'm trying some 3M Marine: Color/Gloss Restorer and 3M:Marine Wax on a laser I picked up for my niece Megan.  I have to assume they worked at one point and time.  Do you have SS rudder pins .... little 3/8" dia white plastic bushings ... and a 3/8" SS flat washers .... the bottom castings are the same ... just remember the place the plastic bushings in the rudder pin holes in the lowwer casting ... place the SS 3/8" flat washer on top of the top gudgeon between the casting and the rudder gudgeon ... install the rudder pins from bottom up ....  the top ones are port or starboard, install them w/ the tiller arms bent inwards, Ok? To rotate the rudder cam, use a thin putty knife and push down on the cam and you can rotate the cam by hand ....  Did you take some pictures of youe mast around the boom to the bottom ???? I know what I have but it is the "top shelf racing set-up", there are several others ( 3-4?) also. I needed to look at it to figure out what you have ... then we can rig it hey, hows things going? I just got the boat to the beach today. I just have one question. I put the rudders on but they don't lock up. The rubber thing that looks like a hook does not seem to move. How do I fix this? The black "rubber" things are actually plastic "rudder cams" In my previous E-Mail I mentioned a "putty knife" .... that is what I was trying to warn you about. Re-read that section first .... with the rudders on the boat take the putty knife ... slip it between the rudder cam and the casting vertically (handle up) with the knife end on the black plastic piece (hump) in the lowwer casting .... press downon the plastic "hump" ... it is spring loaded .... you should be able to rotate the cam w/ your other hand, Ok? Now the cams do deform ( study the cener hole closely, if is is the slightest bit oblong it's done!!!!) and will not rotate as a result .... so you may want to replace them. If they have never been replaced then they are held in using a "hollow" rivet. Please verify that ... if they have been replaced then instead of the rivet it will be a screw that screws into another screw ( male side threads into a female side) The easiest (and safest) way to remove the rivet is to cut DOWN w/ a hacksaw on either side of the cam w/ a fine tooth blade ... remove the cam and punch out the remaining rivet sections. Buy the kit w/ replacement cams and studs. Some people advocate drilling out the rivets ... but the potencial for screwing up and damaging the casting is high ... if the drill bit slips it will ruin the Aluminum casting ... very bad news!!! Using the hacksaw may scratch the casting a little but it's much safer.  The downhaul system you have is the "stock/origonal" system that has been upgraded. This system on my boat is the "Racing Upgrade" ...  My system has a Harken's Exit Block w/ camcleat (Model H140?) mounted on each side of the mast approximently 9"-12" up from the mast base at a slight angle ... I've mounted a "boom bail/becket" on the mast maybe 3" up from the bottom on the trailing edge of the mast ... attach a Harken "Micro" or "Air" triple block to the sail through the grommet ... attach a similiar Harken double block to the "boom bail/becket on the mast. the downhaul sheet enters through the "Exit Block ... up and through the triple ... down to the double ... back up to the triple block ... down to the double ... back up the the last sheave on the triple ... down to and through the "exit block" on the other side of the mast. Be careful of how you feed the line around the "boom", so as not to create a "pinch point" at the boom gooseneck.  This configuration means you can adjust the downhaul from either side. |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ] |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|