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| Rear 6" Inspection Ports, to contour or not to contour? http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=13774 |
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| Author: | OldSalt [ Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Rear 6" Inspection Ports, to contour or not to contour? |
 Having just learned (the hard way) that both of my (older) rear hatch cover mounts (the internal flange, not the twist cap) are cracked; it is time to install new ones.My question is, how are most of you mounting the rear inspection ports? Given that the hull shape in that area is convex, are you pulling the flange down to make it flush...or are you leaving parts of it non-flush to keep the port completely level? All thoughts appreciated! |
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| Author: | HOBIE 911 [ Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rear 6" Inspection Ports, to contour or not to contour? |
Hobie offers a 4" screw cap port plate. It is contoured and fits the rear deck of the 18 perfectly. I have them, put them in when I added side supports |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Sun Aug 16, 2009 5:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rear 6" Inspection Ports, to contour or not to contour? |
OldSalt wrote: Given that the hull shape in that area is convex, are you pulling the flange down to make it flush...or are you leaving parts of it non-flush to keep the port completely level? Whatever you install, do NOT pull the flange down flush. You'll never get the port cover on (if it's off) or off (if it's on). Always install a port with sealant first - just run a bead around the inside of the flange and set it in place (with the lid on). Let it cure, then run another bead around the outside and squirt it underneath the flange if there are any gaps. You don't really need to use the screws that come with the port if you use a good adhesive caulk (3M 4200). Do not use 3M 5200 - it sticks too well. |
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| Author: | jsserene [ Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rear 6" Inspection Ports, to contour or not to contour? |
I have 5" non-contour on my rear ports and my internal flanges are also cracked. Should I replace with the same or get the contour. |
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| Author: | MUST5429 [ Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rear 6" Inspection Ports, to contour or not to contour? |
Whatever you install, do NOT pull the flange down flush. You'll never get the port cover on (if it's off) or off (if it's on). For SURE, and, don't ask me how I know. are you sure the ones that are currently on there are 6" ? I've only seen 6" used on one boat in the "behind the rear crossbar" location, and they looked horrible. Huge gap at the outer edges that had large amounts of silicone filling the gap. The contured ports are the only way to go, and if you are installing them for the first time, the 4" ones fit the best. The 5" ones will work but there is still a gap that requires more silicone caulk that looks nice. I've never tried using the 6" ones on the back of a Hobie 18. Stephen |
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| Author: | Wyatt [ Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rear 6" Inspection Ports, to contour or not to contour? |
When I had some hull damage repaired at a Fibreglass shop, they installed a 6 inch port about 12 inches above the rear crossbar as an access port to make the necessary internal fibreglass repairs. The repair person bent the plastic port by soaking it in boiling water for a while, then installed it with a contour (no one makes a contour six inch; they are all flush, flat mounts). This non-functional port lasted for about a year before it began to leak, so I removed it and built a new opening using flex bond to create a flush mount surface. After I installed the new port, I used a bead of silicone around it to "neaten it up" and it is very watertight and functional. This is really an easy fix. Good luck. |
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