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Inspection Port Replacement
http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2557		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  harriw [ Wed Oct 12, 2005 5:08 am ]
Post subject:  Inspection Port Replacement
Hey everyone,

I'm going to be replacing the pop-out inspection ports with the screw-ins sometime soon, but I just noticed they're riveted in. Is there any trick to getting those rivets out carefully and cleanly? If I just go at them with a power drill, I'm afraid I'm going to slip and enlarge and/or mangle the existing rivet/screw holes to the point where the new plastic screws and nuts won't fit very well.

Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!
Author:  Hobie Nick [ Wed Oct 12, 2005 5:39 am ]
Post subject: 
Don't worry about drilling out the rivits. The drill will follow the center hole in the rivit. You will want to use a drill that is slightly larger than the rivits original size. I would also suggest using stainless hardware. This will make life easier if you ever want to replace the hatches later as the plastic will degrade after a few years and not hold up to tooling as well.
Author:  widerisbetter [ Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:10 am ]
Post subject:  Drilling out rivets - the trick
Hello harriw!
the trick to removing rivets is basically to grind down the flare/flange of the rivet so that the rivet drops out. You are not actually "drilling" out the rivet, just grinding off the "folded over" part that holds the rivet in place.

Use a drill bit exactly the same size as the flange or ever so slightly smaller. As Nick said, the bit will follow the center hole of the rivet. You can also use a counter-sink type bit. The rivets are probably stainless so you may need to use an alloy bit.

Since you are replacing the pop-fit bezel with a screw-fit bezel, don't worry too much about messing up the part you are discarding. A really tight fit for the replacement screws is also not essential since you will be applying about a half inch wide seal of silicone glue/sealant around the base of the bezel.

I don't usually find myself not agreeing with Nick :wink: but I would use the screws and nuts hat come with the portal kit. They are nylon and pretty much last forever. Ports I installed in '76 are still functional. Since they are not under real mechanical stress and you use a silicone glue/sealant they work fine. If you ever need to replace them - well, they will drill out very easily too. (You could also find that "stainless" does not necessarily mean "stainless". The market is flooded with sub-par grade "stainless" that does not hold up.)

Good project - have fun
Author:  DVL [ Wed Oct 12, 2005 6:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Port Replacement
After you get the old ports out, make sure that you seal the foam core sandwich inbetween the inner and outer skin with epoxy. This way no water will ever get into the area and start delamination or make the core heaver due to water saturation. Also use an good caulk (not 5200). I would use the plastic screws & nuts, very little shear or torque on the port.

I re-did my ports years ago after my wife lost both covers on the road.
Author:  harriw [ Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:29 am ]
Post subject: 
Ok, I'll stop at SEARS and pick up one of those Cobalt tip drill bits. Thanks for the thoughts everyone!
Author:  John Eaton [ Thu Oct 13, 2005 10:33 am ]
Post subject: 
I read somewhere the suggestion to use a small cutting wheel (probably 1" dia. or less) on a "dremel" tool, supposedly buzzes right through rivet heads like butter.

On the put back, I liked the idea of cutting a piece of 1/2" thick closed cell foam to match the inner and outer diameter of the port, pricking a hole with an ice pick for your screw or rivet through to deck. This is used in lieu of silicone and if is closed cell foam, due to the compression will not leak.

You then use the round leftover piece glued to the inside of the cap as a flotation device, for when the top goes sliding off the deck while you're digging for your favorite beverage. :)
Author:  harriw [ Mon Oct 24, 2005 11:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Ok, so I got the old ports out without any problems (I did slip on the first rivit and made the hole in the deck a bit larger. Oops.) The kit I got came with rivets instead of screws - I'm pretty sure they're aluminum rivits. Not a problem, I was just a bit surprised.

I sealed up the exposed seams with git-rot (I was fixing a soft spot at the same time anyway), and that seems to have worked well.

Now my question is: The screw/rivet holes in the new screw-in cover don't match up with the existing holes where the former cover mounted. I can just just rotate the new cover and drill new holes (spaced evenly between the old), but I'm a bit worried about making more holes and weakening the fiberglass more. I don't think it'll be a problem, but wanted some re-assurance from y'all :D Any thoughts? Thanks.
Author:  Hobie Nick [ Mon Oct 24, 2005 11:40 am ]
Post subject: 
Don't worry about putting the new holes in. Just remember to plug up the old ones with some epoxy first. If you can, the idea of gluing some closed cell foam to the hatch lids is one worth doing.
Author:  widerisbetter [ Mon Oct 24, 2005 12:09 pm ]
Post subject:  go for it
sounds like you're on the right track brother! Go for it.
Author:  harriw [ Mon Oct 24, 2005 12:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ok, sounds good - I'll finish it up tonight and let you know how it comes out. Thanks for the help everyone.

Say, Wider, which fingerlake do you sail on? I'm on Conesus (whether Conesus lake is technically a finger lake or not is a separate question - I like to think of it as the "thumb" lake). I saw your post in "places to sail", and agree - Upstate/Western NY is a beautiful part of the country that doesn't get the credit it deserves because of the perceived association with New York City. On the other hand, maybe it's better that way - a well kept secret of sorts.

Again, thanks for the help everyone!
Author:  harriw [ Mon Oct 24, 2005 7:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hey guys,

Installed the new ports tonight - went in without a hitch. Boy those rivets are nice... First time I've ever used rivets, but it sure won't be the last! Also installed the anchor plates for the shrouds. Now all that's left is 2 more soft spots to fix, some gel-coat repairs, re-sealing the daggerboard wells and mast fixtures, and a good polish and wax.

Thanks everyone for the help!
Author:  widerisbetter [ Tue Oct 25, 2005 6:02 am ]
Post subject:  Finger Lakes location
Bill -
Conesus as a finger lake? I agree BUT here is an excerpt from "Legends and Stories of the Finger Lakes Region" by Emerson Klees The Hand of the Great Spirit

It is said that the Finger Lakes were made by the impression of the hand of the Great Spirit on central New York State. However there are six major Finger Lakes. West to east they are; Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca, Cayuga, Owasco and Skaneateles.

As told in Iroquois legend, the Great God Manitou wanted to reward the Iroquois Confederacy for their courage in battle and their devotion to the Great Spirit. He decided to bring part of their happy hunting ground down from the heavens.

According to the legend, there are six Finger Lakes because the hand of Manitou slipped when he was pushing the portion of Indian Paradise down from the heavens, causing six indentations that later became the lakes.

So I guess we could allow that the Great Spirit slipped a couple times :wink:

I am on Seneca primarily, otherwise on Keuka (not on weekend's though- WAY too crowded - well it's not really the crowds, it's the idiot rental powerboaters in the crowds :evil: ) and occasionally on Cayuga. It all depends on which one of my friends invites us over 8)

Good to hear that your project went well and I suggest we do keep the Finger Lakes a secret. I heard that Seneca is big, cold and dangerous... :shock: I could trail up to Conesus sometime - keep in touch. As for now it's time to hunker down for the winter I guess. Getting the skis out...

- Stephen
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