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| Rudder arm rivets loose http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=30386 |
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| Author: | divimon2000 [ Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Rudder arm rivets loose |
Anyone know what the size of the rivets that are in the top casting/arm? All 4 of mine are loosey goosey. Looks like SS 3/16 but also seem long. I'd like to have them ready before I drill them out. Of course there may be the chance I need to oversize them if the holes are too worn.. |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder arm rivets loose |
They are long 3/16" SS (or Monel - less corrosive, but more $) Wrap the end of the tiller arm with electrical tape to give it a firm fit before setting the new rivets. |
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| Author: | Hobie Dude [ Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder arm rivets loose |
Does any one glue these? I've got wobbly arms too. What kind of epoxy would you recommend. |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder arm rivets loose |
It's not necessary to glue these. It's overkill. Electrical tape and new rivets work just fine. |
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| Author: | HOBIE 911 [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 9:28 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder arm rivets loose |
Ditto with the electrical tape. If the holes are enlarged use some rivet caps before going to larger rivets. |
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| Author: | divimon2000 [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder arm rivets loose |
Since I have full workshop, and my dad is German (geez I guess that makes me German somewhat) I'm working on another over-engineered solution. He dislikes electrical tape and epoxy fixes  makes me feel guilty. Anyway I'll capture the "fix" on film. I have the rivets drilled out and man the holes are big. And the gap between tube and castings is big. Stand by.
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| Author: | srm [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 11:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder arm rivets loose |
I had the same issue on one of my boats with the old-style rudder castings. Instead of using electrical tape, I used a strip of soda bottle plastic wrapped around the tiller arm as a shim. Start with the plastic strip long enough so that when it is wrapped around the tube several times, the tube won't fit into the casting. Then trim maybe a 1/2" off the strip and re-check the fit. Continue trimming and re-checking until the tube and shim fit snug into the casting with no slop. Once you get a good tight fit, drill the holes through the shim and pop the rivets in place. By the way, some may balk at this, but I suggest using aluminum rivets for this connection once it's been shimmed. Since you're no longer asking the rivet tension to remove the slop from the tiller bar, you don't need the strength of stainless - all the rivets are doing at this point is keeping the tiller arm from sliding out of the end of the casting. Using aluminum rivets will help prevent corrosion of the aluminum tiller components. My rudders have been set up like this for at least 10 years and still have no slop. sm |
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| Author: | Tom Machette [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 4:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder arm rivets loose |
use the sidewall from a pop can that should firm it up and you can add more if needed. |
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| Author: | divimon2000 [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder arm rivets loose |
OK, I found some AL shim (sheet) very thin and cut some to fit inside (about 1/3) of the casting. I didn't need any in the end section (closest to rudder). That shim slightly mis-aligned the holes which was good since the holes were expanded. Everything tightened up nice with the long ss 3/16 rivets. Really it was tighter after one rivet than it was with 4 before I overhauled it. Then I hit the "L" knuckle on the crossbars. All 3 rivets there were too long and never got a grip, hence the slop. Those need the medium length 3/16. |
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