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| Cleat for rotator arm http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=34288 |
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| Author: | Lakewateree [ Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Cleat for rotator arm |
The forward cleat on my boom for the mast rotator keeps moving when under load. I tighten it with a screwdriver before going out, but it always seems to loosen. Anything I can do other than buy a new cleat? |
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| Author: | RobPatt [ Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cleat for rotator arm |
put something in the track to stop it from moving closer to the mast. |
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| Author: | srm [ Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cleat for rotator arm |
If the cleat is sliding along the boom, then it's probably not the cleat that's the problem, its the mounting bracket. I can't recall right now whether the rotator cleat mounts onto the same type of bracket as the outhaul cleat, or whether it just has a nut and washer that sit inside the track. But either way, you're not getting it tight enough either because the threads in the bracket are possibly stripped, or if it's just a nut on the inside, the nut is probably spinning when you tighten the screw. Another thing you can do if it is loosening up is to put a drop of Loctite on the threads. Let the Loctite cure for 24 hours before using. Another note - if you're using a plastic cleat, you may want to replace it anyway. Those have a tendency to let the line slip through. Aluminum clam cleats are much better. sm |
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| Author: | Harry Murphey [ Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cleat for rotator arm |
Yes, the mast rotator cleat and the outhaul cleat use the same aluminum part w/ a threaded insert mounted (in the middle) in it for the SS screw to screw into and pull against ... from my 2006-2007 Hobie Parts&Accessories Cat: Clamp P/N 61711000 Now, there are several different solutions to the problem .... 1) Use a "Hand Impact Driver" to set the SS screw as tight as possible ... 2) Mount an additional "clamp" in front of the cleat for the mast rotator to spread the load out .... or ... the cheap and easy solution that will definately, positively work .... {First, make sure the cleat is far enough aft so the rotator arm "clears/swings by" the cleat while tacking/jybing ..... and you may wish to add a bullet block tied to the mast rotator so that you have a 2X1 which will require some additional room ... and I've mounted a fairlead in front of the cleat (using/expanding on idea #2 above) so the mast rotator line feeds "straight" into the cleat} 3) drill (2) holes .... one on each side of the boom and install a SS machine screw (#6 or#8) that extends into the inside of the casting/boom ... this will act as a "stopper" .... I think 1/4" to 3/8" down from the top edge of the boom would work ... You can tie the mast rotator line off by passing it through the "clamp" and using a fiqure "8" stopper knot .... it's not to fustrating if you use a pair of needlenose pliers or hemostats to "fish" the line through .... (I thought off the "easier/cheaper" idea after I had rebuilt my boom, spending $$'s, trying to solve several problems .... one of which was the cleat sliding forward .... the fairlead does make it easier to adjust the mast rotation since the line doesn't seem to "jam" in the cleat as hard since the some of the load is transfered to the fairlead ....) |
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| Author: | gary eudy [ Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Cleat for rotator arm |
get a alumnium cleat and mount it away from the mast get some really good rope make sure the line size is correct for the cleat |
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