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H18 Boom Repairs
http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=40896		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Mr_Rowdy [ Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:26 pm ]
Post subject:  H18 Boom Repairs
I'm new to sailing. I just started this summer on rented Hobie Waves and bought an H18 to get out on bigger lakes. I think I have 2 repairs requiring me to remove at least one of the boom end caps. First my gooseneck slides in & out about 2 inches. From reading other posts it looks like I have to repair either a clip or the whole end cap. Also my outhaul cleat is slipping. From what I can tell I'm going to need to pull of an end cap to get it out. I'll probably replace the line at the same time while I have it out. To remove the end cap I just drill out the rivets. This is where my questions come as I don't have any experience with rivets. What size drill do I need for these? What size / type of rivets are they? Are they special or can I use ones available at Home Depot?

-Thanks
Rowdy
Author:  Jbernier [ Mon Jan 16, 2012 10:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
You just drill off the head of the rivet (use a 3/16" drill or slightly larger just be careful not to 'oversize' the hole as you need to install a new rivet after making the repairs and the hole needs to remain the correct size of the new rivet won't pull tight>

The rivets used are 3/16" stainless Steel - you can pick them up from any Hobie Dealer - call toll free 1800hobie49
Not sure if they sell the same type at Lowes or Home depot - maybe someone else can answer that..I just know that you can get these fairly easily from any Hobie Shop.
Author:  Mr_Rowdy [ Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
Thanks for the response.
Author:  srm [ Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:35 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
It's not uncommon for the gooseneck pin to slide in and out a few inches. As long as it doesn't come completely out, it's probably ok. The mainsheet tension will keep the boom pressed forward and prevent it from sliding back while sailing. However, if the sliding pin annoys you, then you will have to pull off the end cap, remove the clip on the end of the pin, slide a piece of rubber tubing over the pin and then re-install the clip.

You should not need to remove the end caps to replace the outhaul cleat. All you need to do is remove the screws in the cleat and install a new cleat. The only exception to this would be if the screws are seized in the mounting bracket then you might have to replace the bracket, screws, and cleat. Be sure to replace the cleat with an aluminum one, not plastic. The plastic cleats slip, the aluminum ones don't.

In order to replace the outhaul line, you'll need to pull off the rear end cap. In that case, you should replace the return bungee at the same time.

The best method to remove pop rivets is to drill off the head only. I usually use about a 1/2" drill to do this (same diameter as the head of the rivet). Then use a punch and hammer to drive the mandrel into the boom. This method assures that you won't oversize the hole in the boom.

You should use stainless steel rivets at the gooseneck end of the boom. You can use aluminum rivets at the back end of the boom. They are 3/16" diameter. Home Depot sells aluminum rivets, but not stainless. The best place I've found to get a lot of stainless rivets (more than 20) is McMaster Carr online. If you only need a couple, you can go to your Hobie Dealer, Murrays, or West Marine.

Keep in mind that it takes a LOT of hand strength to pull stainless rivets using a basic pop rivet gun from Home Depot. Also, be sure to wear safety glasses when pulling SS rivets.

sm
Author:  Mr_Rowdy [ Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
Thanks everyone! I wound up pulling the rear end cap off to replace the outhaul line & shock cord. I got new rivets along with an aluminum cleat from my Hobie dealer. Got a heavy duty rivet gun from Northern tool. Everything went great.

-Thanks,
Rowdy
Author:  mespig [ Wed Apr 29, 2015 10:24 am ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
Hi everyone - not sure if this thread is monitored since it's quite old but I'll give it a shot. I have to rivet a new boom end cap (forward) this weekend. I will use stainless steel 3/16". What length should I purchase? I can't seem to find a specification in any of the online parts manuals. Turns out you can special order SS rivets from Home Depot and was going to order 3/16" X 3/8" but wanted to check on length first. Thanks!

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... rCalculate
Author:  OlderBowman [ Wed Apr 29, 2015 12:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
I can't tell you the exact rivet, but when you drill out the old ones measure the body length.

you may also want to see if you have a local West Marine or equivalent to buy your hardware, rather than the HD special order. I would be suspect of the quality of the stainless they have. worst case would be rusting from low quality rivets.
Author:  mespig [ Wed Apr 29, 2015 1:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
hmm.. hadn't thought of that. I'll call West Marine as they're local. thanks!
Author:  srm [ Wed Apr 29, 2015 1:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
McMaster Carr is a good source for stainless rivets and other hardware. They will be significantly cheaper than West Marine and have a much larger selection but you will have to buy more. If they have a warehouse near you, you will generally get the parts in a day or two.

sm
Author:  musicman [ Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:10 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
in the parts catalogue at the back where the schematics of the boat parts are, there is a rivet guide for the H18, telling you part number and how many you need... for the end cap its: 8010131 RIVET POP 3/16x3/8 PH-SS
Author:  jim-doty [ Sun Jul 10, 2016 8:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
srm wrote:
It's not uncommon for the gooseneck pin to slide in and out a few inches. As long as it doesn't come completely out, it's probably ok. The mainsheet tension will keep the boom pressed forward and prevent it from sliding back while sailing. However, if the sliding pin annoys you, then you will have to pull off the end cap, remove the clip on the end of the pin, slide a piece of rubber tubing over the pin and then re-install the clip.

sm


Hey Steve,

Do you have any idea why the gooseneck pin is designed to slide in and out those few inches?

Can you think of any adverse effects of putting that piece of rubber tubing on it?

Jim
Author:  TAMUmpower [ Sun Jul 10, 2016 9:16 am ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
jim-doty wrote:
srm wrote:
It's not uncommon for the gooseneck pin to slide in and out a few inches. As long as it doesn't come completely out, it's probably ok. The mainsheet tension will keep the boom pressed forward and prevent it from sliding back while sailing. However, if the sliding pin annoys you, then you will have to pull off the end cap, remove the clip on the end of the pin, slide a piece of rubber tubing over the pin and then re-install the clip.

sm


Hey Steve,

Do you have any idea why the gooseneck pin is designed to slide in and out those few inches?

Can you think of any adverse effects of putting that piece of rubber tubing on it?

Jim


My guess is the place that manufactures that piece of rod with an eye fitting stamped on it, that's just the length it makes by standard and Hobie didn't feel like paying them to cut down the fittings to a smaller length when it was going to be under compression and not matter anyway.
Author:  leoxyz [ Tue Oct 04, 2016 3:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
Hi,
I didn'like my gooseneck to slide in and out, because I felt that I couldn't control the main foot tension.
So I used an anchor pin (the same that are are used on side of the hulls that hold the shrouds).
It is threaded and you can lock it with a nut. I won't slide anymore. Part n. 20100000
It fits perfectly.

btw: I always use aluminun rivets, easier to set and easier (and less risky) to remove. They also don't corrode the aluminum of the extrusion. You will have to renew them eventually after 4 or 5 years, but who cares.

As for the size, follow the rivet guide.
Author:  moncasta08 [ Tue Oct 18, 2016 6:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: H18 Boom Repairs
leoxyz wrote:
Hi,
I didn'like my gooseneck to slide in and out, because I felt that I couldn't control the main foot tension.
So I used an anchor pin (the same that are are used on side of the hulls that hold the shrouds).
It is threaded and you can lock it with a nut. I won't slide anymore. Part n. 20100000
It fits perfectly.

btw: I always use aluminun rivets, easier to set and easier (and less risky) to remove. They also don't corrode the aluminum of the extrusion. You will have to renew them eventually after 4 or 5 years, but who cares.

As for the size, follow the rivet guide.


Side note to this... aluminum rivets work great as long as there is no load, otherwise they loosen up very quickly and need to be replaced. Boom caps work, rudder hardware does not.
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