Anyone have any good ideas on how to get these to come out? They were rounded before I even touched them got new pieces in hand for entire setup. Kinda stuck at the moment
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| Author: | Thiscowboysails [ Sun Jun 30, 2019 2:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Rudder cam screws |
Anyone have any good ideas on how to get these to come out? They were rounded before I even touched them got new pieces in hand for entire setup. Kinda stuck at the moment Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | srm [ Sun Jun 30, 2019 4:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder cam screws |
Drill it out with a 5/8” drill and then chase the threads with a 3/4”-10 tap (or buy a 3/4” bolt from home depot, cut a notch or two in the end with a flat file, and use that to clean the threads). Before you do that, drill out the rivet and pull the cam, spring, and plunger out so they don’t get damaged from the drill. sm |
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| Author: | raisehull [ Sun Jun 30, 2019 4:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder cam screws |
drill out... then heat.... then left hand "easy-out"? |
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| Author: | Thiscowboysails [ Sun Jun 30, 2019 7:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder cam screws |
srm wrote: Drill it out with a 5/8” drill and then chase the threads with a 3/4”-10 tap (or buy a 3/4” bolt from home depot, cut a notch or two in the end with a flat file, and use that to clean the threads). Before you do that, drill out the rivet and pull the cam, spring, and plunger out so they don’t get damaged from the drill. The Cams were apparently upgraded to the flat head pins and wont move(assuming because to much pressure from the screw?) Dont want to risk rounding those out to, As soon as I get the old ones out new hardware all lots of marine grease.sm Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | SabresfortheCup [ Mon Jul 01, 2019 10:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder cam screws |
This is a common issue with these old delrin screws. They get frozen in place and the exposed section crumbles when you try to unscrew them. I've seen someone post once that they heated up a screwdriver, stuck it in, let it cool, and then twisted it out, but most of us have had to drill them out. The unfortunate part is that Hobie no longer supplies the screws or the springs for the old style system. Fortunately, the rudder return system from Murrays (essentially bungie cord around the rudder) keeps the rudders down even with a cam system that no longer functions. |
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| Author: | Thiscowboysails [ Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder cam screws |
srm wrote: Drill it out with a 5/8” drill and then chase the threads with a 3/4”-10 tap (or buy a 3/4” bolt from home depot, cut a notch or two in the end with a flat file, and use that to clean the threads). Before you do that, drill out the rivet and pull the cam, spring, and plunger out so they don’t get damaged from the drill. Thank you for the advise it went well and all fixed now sm Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | RushMan [ Fri Aug 02, 2019 6:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder cam screws |
srm wrote: Drill it out with a 5/8” drill and then chase the threads with a 3/4”-10 tap (or buy a 3/4” bolt from home depot, cut a notch or two in the end with a flat file, and use that to clean the threads). Before you do that, drill out the rivet and pull the cam, spring, and plunger out so they don’t get damaged from the drill. sm The local shop only had threaded rod when I was doing this. One end has a cross cut into it with the angle grinder for cleaning out the thread. The other end has been turned into a 3/4" flat screwdriver that fits the new screw perfectly |
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| Author: | mmiller [ Mon Aug 05, 2019 1:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder cam screws |
SabresfortheCup wrote: The unfortunate part is that Hobie no longer supplies the screws or the springs for the old style system Springs and Delrin screws are still available.  10430000 SPRING RUDDER CASTING z29.jpg) 60450000 SCREW DELRIN RUDDER |
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| Author: | JoePlk [ Fri Apr 24, 2026 5:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Rudder cam screws |
Here is the method I used to remove rudder cam adjustment screws. I drilled out the center, but not with a large size drill bit. I used a long 3/8" bit. I wanted to leave enough of the screw material for a large screwdriver to act on. There is no need at all to remove the spring, cam and plunger before removing the screw. If you drill too deeply, you will notice that the drill is no longer cutting plastic, and you will hear the sound of the drill hitting the spring. As long as you stop then, no noticeable damage will be done to the spring. After the hole is drilled, take a very heavy wire about 8" long and heat about 2 inches of one end red hot. Insert the wire into the hole in the plastic screw and using the heat of the wire, place it against one side then the other to melt the plastic all the way to the aluminum threads. This leaves a way for the screwdriver to be inserted deeply into the screw, and it also relieves some of the pressure that the screw exerts on the aluminum casting. Insert the screwdriver and twist. The screw should release. After taking the screw out, remove the spring and plunger, run a tap or notched bolt into the screw threads to clean them, wash or blow out any debris, grease and reassemble. Even if the screw does not release afterward, the melted slots will make it easier to break out the remaining parts of the screw. Danger: Do not breathe the fumes from the burning plastic or let it get into your eyes. |
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