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| Repairing Daggerboard trunks? http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7412 |
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| Author: | Greenhorn [ Thu Jul 26, 2007 3:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Repairing Daggerboard trunks? |
My 1982 18 has leaks and cracks in the upper rear corners of the db trunks. Is this common? I would have expected them in front on top? How are they best repaired? Can the sharp notch be more rounded, to allow more epoxy and reinforcing cloth? Thanks in advance for your help, Tom |
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| Author: | Hobie Nick [ Fri Jul 27, 2007 12:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have never done this repair, but here is where I would start. I would file/grind out the area that has cracks plus a little more material. Then I would fill back in with epoxy with glass fiber filler in it. Fair in, and then cover with gel-coat. If it is really bad I may try to add a piece of cloth perpendicular to the direction of the db trunks. Again, I only just thought of this while I read this posting. Do not assume this is correct. This is only a starting point. |
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| Author: | Big Jib & the Uni's [ Fri Jul 27, 2007 12:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
First off, if expecting a leak to be in the trunk, I'd have checked lower rear. If you're dealing with just a leak (can't press on the case and get the cracks to open up) I would try formula 27, or a boat repair/fiberglass "bondo" first. It is much easier to work with. You can get a rat tail file down in there and smooth it up. Epoxy is harder than rock and not easy to work with. Even if the cracks were opening, I'd try bondo first. It's summer you need to be sailing. 
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| Author: | John Lunn [ Fri Jul 27, 2007 1:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Daggerboard repair |
A few warnings: 1. Try using polyester, as epoxy needs to be painted otherwise the UV will kill it. 2. Epoxy is strong but brittle, and the daggerboard wells often suffer impact. Again, polyester is better, OR, use appropriate additives to the epoxy to give it more strength. 3. For the first stage, once you have identified the leaks in the well, mix up a small batch of 'runny' epoxy or poly, set the shop vac on 'suck', hook it up to the drain plug, and apply the epoxy/poly to the affected area. (Thanks Jeremy of Surf City for this idea.) The shop vac negative pressure will suck the liquid into the cracks. Let that dry, then carry on with the surface/exterior repairs. 4. Work well, work fast, and get sailing! |
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