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| Replacing Jib Blocks http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=8172 |
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| Author: | Luffed [ Tue Oct 23, 2007 3:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Replacing Jib Blocks |
I want to replace the original jib rigging on my 82' H18. The jib blocks are hard as heck to uncleat. Can anyone help select a decent set/system that's economic and functional? I'm not looking for race equipment here, just something to make jib control a little easier for the wife. Also, with the new proposed items, should I replace the jib traveler tracks too? Thanks! |
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| Author: | Tom Machette [ Tue Oct 23, 2007 3:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
These are pretty good blocks for the 18 you can get the Harken racheting kind too. http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=28-0186&Category_Code=C-J&Store_Code=MS There shouldn't be any need to replace the track, and use the track sliders that you still have, just use silicon spray if they are sticking. |
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| Author: | Skipshot [ Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Check the diameter of your jib sheet, too. You may have trouble if it's too large. |
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| Author: | ncmbm [ Wed Oct 24, 2007 8:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can also adjust the angle of the cleat on each block for greater ease in releasing. It is usually a trade off, easy cleat or easy uncleat. |
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| Author: | Big Jib & the Uni's [ Wed Oct 24, 2007 9:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing Jib Blocks |
Luffed wrote: The jib blocks are hard as heck to uncleat.
Sorry I don't have a picture but... Do you have a bungee between the two jib blocks so they "stand up"? Standard practice and helps the uncleating problem immensely. From memory there will be a grommeted hole (in the tramp) inboard of the blocks about six inches. Tie the bungie to the upper part of block and route thru hole and under tramp to other block. |
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| Author: | ncmbm [ Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've never seen a H18 with holes in the tramp for bungee from block to block. The H18 has springs under the block to make it stand, and seaway blocks. I really think the problem is the angle of the cleat unless the seaways have been replaced. Also, is your spouse sitting at the front of the tramp or rear, cleats work best from the front of the boat. |
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| Author: | Skipshot [ Thu Oct 25, 2007 11:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Oxen Blocks ( http://www.oxenblocks.com/ ) came with my 18, and I love them! Although they are twice the price of Harken blocks, uncleating the jib sheet is not a problem in any way. I have found this to be important since having the luck of an excellent crew member work the jib so well that I hardly needed to work the main, and found that the jib is better at fine tuning when properly handled. As a recreational sailor I like to go fast and fly a hull, but adjusting the main can affect the boat's power too much, so adjusting the jib first has become my preference. |
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| Author: | Luffed [ Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have the original seaway blocks. The problem may be a combination of angle and old springs. My blocks do not stand up at all, they just lay limp and flop around. I'm assuming new springs would remedy this. I'll replace the springs and check the angle before making a new purchase. |
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| Author: | srm [ Wed Oct 31, 2007 3:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
As suggested before, a bungee between the fairlead of the two jib blocks will prevent them from flopping around. I know that vinyl tramps have a small grommet for this purpose. If your tramp doesn't have the grommet, you can pass the bungee under the hiking straps. I'm pretty sure you can't replace the stand-up spring on Seway blocks as they don't come apart. Personally, I use the Harken auto-ratchets. They work pretty well and are reasonably priced. I used Oxen blocks for a long time. They work well too, but they aren't as dependable as the Harkens and they are pricey. I'm pretty sure murrays or hobie used to sell (and may still) an adapter plate that allowed you to use a harken cleat on the seaway block. That would probably be the least expensive route. If it isn't still commercially available, you could probably make one pretty easily if you're somewhat handy. There should be no need to replace the actual jib traveler track unless it is visibly broken, or it doesn't operate moderately smoothly (they don't operate very smoothly anyway). The track should be the same for all cleats. sm |
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