BboySlug wrote:
Is the rigging/tuning process described above for all wind velocities? Or does exactly what hole you attach here, and how far you rake the mast, differ for various wind velocities?
What I've outlined above is a good starting point for moderate wind (10-12 kts). Once you've established your baseline, then you make adjustments according to the conditions.
Rick White's "Three W's" - Wind, Weight, Waves - is a good approach about how to make adjustments:
Wind - obviously, you want maximum power up to a point where more power is undesirable - you can't hold the boat down and it's hard to sail.
Weight - not just positioning (forward as much as possible), but amount. More weight = more power. Less weight = less power.
Waves - it takes energy to punch through waves, so if it's lumpy, you want more power.
Ways to gain power - stand the rig up a bit (jib halyard tighter, 1 hole up on the side stays), looser downhaul, main traveler centered, be careful not to oversheet the sails. Battens in tight, softer battens in the top of the jib. In lumpy and light conditions, travel out the main about 6" to keep it from stalling and don't try to point so high going upwind.
Ways to bleed power off - travel out the main (sometimes as far as the hiking strap), travel out the jib (to keep from backwinding the main), downhaul on tight (upwind), ease jib halyard slightly (never ease the jib halyard so much that the forestay is taking the mast load). Side stays down one hole. Battens looser (wrinkles out, but that's it), stiffer battens in top of the jib.
All this stuff is not just about racing - it makes the boat easier and more enjoyable to sail. If you're fighting the boat all the time, you're not having fun - and something's not set up right.