Hobie Forums :: View topic - which mast to use? (and other parts)

Good questions.

1. Keep the mast that is in the best condition. Black anodized is only cosmetic and it fades.

2. Cruise the Repairs forum for tips on rehabing the fiberglass rudders. Fiberglass rudders are way better performance-wise than the plastic ones, but they are also more delicate. If you plan to run up rocky beaches and let the rudders kick up by themselves when they hit the bottom then maybe the plastic ones are better for you.

3. If you have the money then replace both top and bottom main blocks with the blocks suggested in the Hobie catalog. Shackle the upper block to the aft block hanger. Get a new main sheet, too.

Author:	oahu16 [ Mon Jul 28, 2008 2:59 pm ]
Post subject:	which mast to use? (and other parts)
I recently bought an '82 Hobie to use as spare parts for my '77. My original mast is black anodized. I need to replace a rivet on the main halyard cleat, and replace the main halyard hook at the top of the mast which has a tooth broken off. Those parts are cheap. This mast has hooks on the side about halfway up to keep the jib from catching on the halyards. Seems to work pretty good. My "new" mast is silver anodized. It's cleats and halyard hook are in good shape but it doesn't have the hooks to keep the jib from fouling on the halyards. The mast base is in slightly better condition than my original but not much difference. Both masts have Hobie Bobs at the end. I'm going to sell one of them to my friend who is building up a 16. Someone at the club told me the black anodized are newer/better than the silver (neither are comp-tip) but I can't see the difference. Which mast should I keep for myself? The other will be a spare or get sold. I also have a rudders that come with the "new" boat. They are fiberglass but look like they need a paint job. The plastic ones I have now are in decent shape. Which are better? Finally, my current rig has two different blocks which attach to the boom, each with a single wheel part. They are Harken and work with the Harken bottom block which has three wheels. What I don't like is the one of the top blocks is constantly getting twisted. With the "new" boat I could replace the two upper blocks with a single 3-wheel block which I suppose will increase my mechanical advantage. It might also reduce this twisting problem. It is an older Seaway block but seems to be in good shape. If I did this replacement, should I hand it where the forward block was on the boom, or the aft block? Or do you vary it depending on conditions? thanks for input

Author:	Skipshot [ Mon Jul 28, 2008 10:59 pm ]
Post subject:
Good questions. 1. Keep the mast that is in the best condition. Black anodized is only cosmetic and it fades. 2. Cruise the Repairs forum for tips on rehabing the fiberglass rudders. Fiberglass rudders are way better performance-wise than the plastic ones, but they are also more delicate. If you plan to run up rocky beaches and let the rudders kick up by themselves when they hit the bottom then maybe the plastic ones are better for you. 3. If you have the money then replace both top and bottom main blocks with the blocks suggested in the Hobie catalog. Shackle the upper block to the aft block hanger. Get a new main sheet, too.

Author:	sunvista [ Tue Jul 29, 2008 6:12 am ]
Post subject:
Skipshot wrote: Shackle the upper block to the aft block hanger. Get a new main sheet, too. I have a similar setup. When I use the aft hanger the block is angled back so far that I can't cleat the main sheet from the trapeze, even on the lowest block adjustment. He should just try both and see which works better.

Author:	oahu16 [ Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:36 am ]
Post subject:
Skipshot wrote: Good questions. 1. Keep the mast that is in the best condition. Black anodized is only cosmetic and it fades. 2. Cruise the Repairs forum for tips on rehabing the fiberglass rudders. Fiberglass rudders are way better performance-wise than the plastic ones, but they are also more delicate. If you plan to run up rocky beaches and let the rudders kick up by themselves when they hit the bottom then maybe the plastic ones are better for you. 3. If you have the money then replace both top and bottom main blocks with the blocks suggested in the Hobie catalog. Shackle the upper block to the aft block hanger. Get a new main sheet, too. 1. Okay, that's what I thought about the mast. 2. I'll check Repairs for rudder rehab. 3. I looked at the Hobie catalog and the lower block is the one I have now. I'll try it with the "new" block for 6:1. Will experiment with both aft hanger and forward. thanks for both replies. It's nice to have spares, but I think I have 3 complete rudder-cam-crossbar setups now!

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