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Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=18460		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  jsloan999 [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:10 am ]
Post subject:  Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
My 6:1 mainsheet system does not let out line as fast as I need. It has cause me to capsize a couple of times

I lube the blocks with SailKote before I sail and the ratchet is off.

Any sugestions?

Image
Author:  sunjammers [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:13 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
that sheet is HUGE drop it down a few sizes and problem should be solved.
Author:  jsloan999 [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:40 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
New line is cheaper than new blocks - great!

I think the sheet in half inch - should I go with 7/16" or 3/8"?

I got the block assembly and sheets off a hobie that was parted out, so I assumed all was well with the setup.
Author:  mmiller [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:53 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
3/8"
Author:  srm [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:05 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
A thinner line will definitely help. Another thing I would do since you will have the system taken apart anyway is to check that all the sheaves spin freely. Harken makes top notch gear, but parts can still break and bind up.

Also check to make sure that the line is reeved properly. Your setup looks pretty clean, but generally the cleanest routing has the upper and lower triple blocks turned at 90 degrees to each other. On my 18, I use the same system you're showing but my blocks are at 90 degrees. The lower block is turned 90 degrees from what you have shown and the mainsheet goes from the bottom ratchet block to the center sheave on top triple first, not the end sheave.

Last bit of advice would be that as it's currently set up, your system is 7:1 purchase. Most 16 sailors only use 6:1 purchase. If you take one of the reeves out of your system and go to 6:1, that will also help eliminate some friction.

sm
Author:  mmadge [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
jsloan999 wrote:
New line is cheaper than new blocks - great!

I think the sheet in half inch - should I go with 7/16" or 3/8"?

I got the block assembly and sheets off a hobie that was parted out, so I assumed all was well with the setup.


I would go with 5/16",that size works the best.
Author:  jsloan999 [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
Boy I am glad I incuded a photo! Thanks to everyone.

Does anyone have links to diagrams showing how to string a 6:1 purchase?
Author:  srm [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 11:14 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
jsloan999 wrote:
Does anyone have links to diagrams showing how to string a 6:1 purchase?


Ok, here's how I can best describe reeving a non-low-profile 7:1 mainsheet system with a becket hung from the middle of the upper triple block. Sorry, I don't have any pics. To make the system 6:1, just untie the end of the mainsheet from the becket on the upper block and put a stopper knot in it so it stops on the lower triple block.

The top triple block and the bottom single ratchet block should be oriented parallel to each other. The lower triple block (mounted on top of the single ratchet block) should be oriented 90 degrees to the other two blocks.

Assuming you're facing the front of the mainsheet system. (1) Take your mainsheet line and pass it from the front of the jaws of the cam cleat on the single ratchet block through the cleat and out the back of the ratchet block. (2) Then pass the line in the backside and out of the front side of the center sheave on the upper triple block. (3) Now pass the line in from the right side and out of the left side of the forward most block on the lower triple sheave. (4) Then pass the line in from the frontside and out the backside of the left most sheave on the upper triple block. (5) Then pass the line in from the left side and out the right side of the rear sheave on the lower triple block. (6) Then pass the line in from the back side and out the front side of the right sheave on the upper triple block. (7) Then pass the line in from the right side and out the left side of the center sheave on the lower triple block (you now have 6:1). (8) Then tie the line off to the becket on the upper triple block (you now have 7:1).

Confused?

That is from memory, but I believe it is correct. Your blocks should actually end up at about 45 degrees to each other, but there should be no crossed lines.

sm
Author:  mmiller [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 11:42 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
Detailed diagram on Page 23 of the current parts catalog.

http://www.hobiecat.com/media/pdf/eSail_2009-10_22-29.pdf
Author:  Jbernier [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
jsloan999 wrote:
My 6:1 mainsheet system does not let out line as fast as I need. It has cause me to capsize a couple of times

I lube the blocks with SailKote before I sail and the ratchet is off.

Any sugestions?

Image



That picture shows a 7:1 system - not 6:1 - a little different.
Author:  mmiller [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
Good call JB... That extra purchase will also cause a delay in sheeting out. Take it down to 6:1 and use the smaller line (3/8").
Author:  jsloan999 [ Tue Dec 22, 2009 7:10 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
I moved the triple block with beckett to the bottom and the triple block to the top. Followed SMR's instructions and ....

Image

Thanks to all that helped--
Author:  srm [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 4:37 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
If you pass the end of your line through the center sheave of the bottom block and tie a stopper knot in it (figure 8 knot) rather than tie off on the becket, you'll be able to sheet in about 2" tighter. Also, if you can get rid of some of the shackles/hardware for connecting the top block to the boom, you can probably shave off another inch or two. On the 16, minimizing stack height is critical for getting maximum rake.

sm
Author:  MBounds [ Wed Dec 23, 2009 6:04 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
srm wrote:
If you pass the end of your line through the center sheave of the bottom block and tie a stopper knot in it (figure 8 knot) rather than tie off on the becket, you'll be able to sheet in about 2" tighter. Also, if you can get rid of some of the shackles/hardware for connecting the top block to the boom, you can probably shave off another inch or two. On the 16, minimizing stack height is critical for getting maximum rake.

sm

Or just replace all lower blocks with one of these bad boys:
Image
Author:  BrianCT [ Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problems with 6:1 Harken blocks
Good morning Hobie sailors. I recently inventoried my newly purchased '82 boat and discovered my mainsheet system needs to be replaced due to a cracked block housing and cracked pulley wheel. Murrays offers a "6:1 Carbo Low-Profile Mainsheet System" on page #22 of their catalogue that is priced as follows:

- Carbo Ratchmatic 57MM Base Block 6:1 (Part #28-2629 price $249.00)

My question: I looked on eBay and I'm wondering if this $169 triple carbo ratchet w/cam & becket is the same as the base block Murrays has priced at $249:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harken-2141-57mm-Triple-Carbo-Ratchet-w-Cam-Becket_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c53831fbaQQitemZ190379663290QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

Thank you in advance for your thoughts. I'm sure you understand I don't want to spend more than I have to.
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