That's a good one. Some people run the line through the jib cleat and hold it up that way, but your way is also popular!
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| Single handedly stepping your mast (this seems safest) http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=2496 |
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| Author: | Windquest [ Sun Oct 02, 2005 1:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Single handedly stepping your mast (this seems safest) |
I have discovered a great way to step the mast single handedly, haven't tried yet but would like some input. I will detail it step by step. First, Get the mast and all cables ready. Next, put the forestay pin in your pocket. Put a spare clevis pin (or the pin you use for the jib)in the forestay bracket at about the fourth hole down. Tie a line to the eye of the forestay wire. Next run the line you tied to the forestay eye over the top of the clevis pin (in the forestay bracket) then back through the space between the bottom of the bracket and the pin. (kind of hard to picture but can draw a diagram if anyone needs it) Take the end of the line you just threaded through the forestay bracket and put it in your pocket or something while you step the mast. Once you get the mast up pull the slack out of the line in your pocket while holding up the mast at the same time. (this will tension the forestay) Once you get it tight tie of the end of the line to one of the cleats on the mast and it should hold. You may even try using the Jib halyard block on the mast to help you do this. Be sure to keep the mast step link attached during the whole process. If you have it tight enough the eye of the forestay wire should be hovering right at the first hole of the bracket then all you have to do is jump down and insert the pin. Whalla Let me know what you guys think. |
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| Author: | JaimeZX [ Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That's a good one. Some people run the line through the jib cleat and hold it up that way, but your way is also popular!
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| Author: | nevillemwiles [ Mon Oct 03, 2005 1:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've tied a spare line to the trailer and up to the mast holder Y. tie the end of it to the end of the main halyard, lift the mast, pull the wire end of the halyard tight and cleat off on halyard cleat. Go and install pin and put things back. Works fine on a Getaway. |
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| Author: | Skipshot [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 1:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Great suggestion. Is it correct that lowering the mast is a reversal of stepping it? |
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| Author: | JPSOUP [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 3:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Stepping it alone |
Windquest, I'm a brand new Hobie owner and single as they come. I've been strategizing the same plan that you've come up with and man, it seems like it would work. Please let me know if you've tried it and if it worked. I've got to get sailing solo. Waiting on other people is getting frustrating! Great topic, JP |
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| Author: | nevillemwiles [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 5:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You need to tie it off just long enough to pull the pin and return to the mast to lower. I did it on the Getaway it worked easier than having help, the front tramp really makes it easy. just make good knots 
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| Author: | widerisbetter [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | good attention to safety and redundant system! |
Hi Windquest - great post with attention to the "little" things that aren't so little when you make a mistake - like leaving a forestay pin on the tramp instead of in your pocket.. 
Here is an idea lifted from the H17 set up manual: Turn the main halyard into a temporary forestay. Attach the halyard shackle to the bridle shackle. When the mast is upright yank in the slack on the halyard. Now tie off your end of the halyard around the cross bar or dolphin striker. Attach the forestay as normal. Detail: DO NOT LET GO of the halyard shackle when you take off the bridle shackle or it will run up to the top of the mast
HOWEVER---- Here is a trick that makes ALL of the tie offs and tie ups and supports COMPLETELY unnecessary: let leverage work for you. Tip the boat so the bow is lower than the stern. Make sure the side stays are in the TOP hole of the adjusters. With the bow down and the stays loose the mast leans forward enough so that it's own weight against the stays keeps it in place while you walk up and attach the bridle. No hurry. The more angle the better. There are a lot of ways to get the angle you need: if the boat is on the trailer, set the trailer tongue on the ground. Make sure you block the trailer tires first. OR If you can unload the boat with the mast down just pull the stern up on the shore. OR if your approach to the launch ramp comes in on a hill - park on the hill facing down of course (make sure there are no overhead wires please). Sail smarter not harder. Well OK sail harder too!! 
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| Author: | zingaro [ Fri Oct 07, 2005 4:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
ive a photo essay of my stepping procedure (see nude photo) . Im about ready to try a 18 solo........need for speed!!!! |
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| Author: | Hobie Nick [ Fri Oct 07, 2005 5:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Stepping an 18 mast solo is a little more difficult. More weight and less forestay slack. I have yet to find a safe, quick way to do this. Since I can't drag the 18 around the beach I sail at alone, I end up bringing crew anyway. |
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| Author: | John Eaton [ Sun Oct 09, 2005 7:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
OK, stepped the mast on the 16 today for the first time solo. I supported the end of the mast on the top rail of the fence at the boat yard. Used the method of tieing the line on the forestay and running through a shackle on the bridle adjuster and back to the tramp, then tied it off on a mast cleat after stepping to hold the mast up. When I got down to pin the forestay, I realized I had not moved the shrouds up to the top holes. Lots of tugging, shoulder under the bridle, on the trailer tongue, off the tongue, so close, yet so far away. 
 I tied the trailer winch line to a trapeze handle and snugged it up just tight enough to slip the pin in and did not have to fiddle with the shrouds at all.
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| Author: | JaimeZX [ Sun Oct 09, 2005 10:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I put a West Marine shroud extender on my bridle and that makes stepping the mast very easy because you can connect the forestay when the extender is open and then use your muscles to squeeze it shut and insert the pin. So the bridle wires are connected to the (obvious bottom) end of the shroud extender and then the pelican clip where I connect the jib tack is in the (middle of the open extender / top of the closed extender) and I put the forestay in a hole about (3/4 up the open extender / 1/2 up the closed extender.) Gives me plenty of slack to connect the forestay and then I can pull it closed to firm up the rig.
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| Author: | David Devon [ Mon Oct 10, 2005 5:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | Learned from an old pro |
I recently learned the following (similar) from an old Hobie pro who is very used to rigging alone... Once the mast is ready to step, attach a line to the jib halyard. Run the line through the trailer mast support (or through any hole in the forward portion of the trailer) and bring it back to the jib cleat. (Before stepping, and with the shrouds in the top hole, attach one end of a bungy cord to the shroud (and trapez) wire and the other end to the tramp strap. Do this on both sides. This will keep the wires near the center of the tramp and prevent them from getting caught under the rear hull, rudder or corner casting). Back to stepping... Step the mast up. Once the mast is up, keep forward pressure with one hand while you release the cleated jib line with the other. Pull the jib line taught and cleat it off (which keeps the mast in the forward position). Attach the loose forestay to the top hole and slowly release the cleated jib line (which settles the mast into position). Reverse the process to lower the mast. I've done this all summer without incident. Good luck. |
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| Author: | Hobie Nick [ Tue Oct 11, 2005 6:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you don't have a trailer or the boat is on the beach or water you can use a similar method. Put an extra clevis pin in the forstay adjuster lower than you will connect the forestay. Take the line tied to the jib halyard and run it under the newly installed clevis pin then up to the tramp. Get on the tramp and place the bitter end of the line in your pocket. Step your mast like usual. When it's fully stepped tighten the line in your pocket and cleat it off to the jib halyard cleat. This will also align the bridle properly for the jib forestay. then go forward and attache the forestay. |
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| Author: | fury [ Mon Nov 07, 2005 2:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
All methods sound like a lot of thought has gone into them, and obviously work well. I had to develop my own method, as I only recently discovered this forum. It is very simple to get the mast up, as I have a bad back and cant lift much weight. as follows.: 1 Connect side stays, making sure that they are toward the centre of the tramp. 2 Put mast in mast step hinge 3 "Hoist" on jib halyard, temporary side stays attached around front of mast X beam and fastened to under tramp corner bracket. (using this technique means that as the mast goes up, it has tight side stays, so it cant move and snap the mast hinge bracket) 4 Attach the mast support bracket (removed from trailer) to forstay 5 Attach an inverted V rope to stop the mast support from falling over (mast support acts like a jocky pole - with the mast end now on the x beam neat mast step ) 6 Attach a longish block and tackle to forstay and to centre of forestay bridle this whole thing now looks like a crane, with ( from front) bridle, then block and tackle at 45deg upward to join the mast support and forestay.( which is now 6 foot in the air - like a mini mast ) 7 Pull the block and tackle, mast goes up in a very controlled manor in any breeze - and comes down the same way. sounds complex, but really isn't. I have no idea if this is a common way of doing this or not - but works for me... cheers |
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