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Removing Hulls
http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3820
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Author:  Alan Ellis [ Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:16 am ]
Post subject:  Removing Hulls

Is there a trick to getting the hulls loose from the pylons? And....once I get them off, how do I get them back on? They seem awful tight and I don't want to damage them without knowing the proper way to remove and reinstall them. Thanks.

Author:  John Eaton [ Fri Jun 09, 2006 9:38 am ]
Post subject: 

Alan,

Dead Blow hammer on the castings. I've used a car scissor jack and 2x8's to protect the hulls, but it's kind of scary. The corner castings may have been epoxied on the hull pylons already. If so you'll need to heat up the castings with a torch to soften the epoxy.

Curious as to why you're removing them. Is the frame really loose? If you lift one bow how much deflection do you have?

I flip the boat over in the yard, makes it easier to work. Once you break it loose you need two people to lift up and wiggle at the same time, the back will come out easy the front is difficult. A little axle grease and they'll slide back on, again keeping the front ones aligned and inserted first is crutial.

ps Missed you at Mid-Americas (OK, there was no wind or races on Saturday) only four 16's showed, are you going to Tulsa on the 24th & 25th? ps

Author:  Alan Ellis [ Fri Jun 09, 2006 11:45 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks for the response. Can you hammer directly on the casting? We thought about using a piece of wood to protect the casting and providing a buffer.

The reason I'm removing the hulls is to install ports. I need the ports to get inside the hull and repair a couple of holes and cracks in the keel. I need to build up the glass from the inside of the keel before doing the outside. The ports are being installed about 10 inches aft of the front pylon, so the only way to properly cut the holes and access the inside is to remove the hulls.

I was out of town the weekend of the mid-Americas. Unfortunately, we also have plans for the weekend of the 24-25th. Next year, I plan to do a better job of planning vacations with the regatta schedule in mind.

Author:  John Eaton [ Fri Jun 09, 2006 12:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

Sure, the dead blow hammer has a rubber cover and weighs something like 2.5 or 4 lbs. Get 'em at the discount tool store of your choice.

Serious case of beach rash, huh? I've repaired single holes on boats where a rock got ground into the glass and pushed completely through, right on the keel line as you've described. Holes up to about 1" diameter can be "plugged" by mixing in a lot of cut fiber or wood filler or that other stuff they sell, making your mixture like peanut butter. Then you could lay some glass strips on top of that.

Author:  MBounds [ Fri Jun 09, 2006 5:43 pm ]
Post subject: 

Alan, you (probably) won't be able to get to the inside of the center section of the hull because that's where the "positive foam flotation" block is.

Essentially a huge block of foam that fills the hulls between the pylons.

You can do the repair from the outside - not a big deal.

Image

You can see the foam in this photo of a 14 (that's only half of it).

Author:  Alan Ellis [ Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:32 pm ]
Post subject: 

Well, we got the hulls off the pylons with a 5 lb hammer and 2x4s. We got the holes cut in the hulls for the ports and we've finished for the evening. My fiberglass guy will take a look at it tomorrow or Monday. I found the foam. Luckily, the cracks/holes are in a place where I can move the foam out of the way and work on them. Thanks for the pics and advice.

Time for beer.....

AE

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