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Rudder casting/gudgeon slop
http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=47555		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  AntonLargiader [ Sun May 12, 2013 7:59 am ]
Post subject:  Rudder casting/gudgeon slop
There appears to be a fair amount of wear on my new-to-me 2000. The Hobie parts book mentions "plastic bushed pin holes" in the 1-piece gudgeons but I can't find any trace of that. There seems to be about the same amount of play between the pin and the gudgeon as there is between the pin and the casting.

A second issue is the wear on the horizontal surfaces; in the attached picture you can see how much up-and-down play there is in the system. I assume there was none to start with and the starboard casting is just beginning to rub the top of the hull.

What's my best course of action here? Install the 8062001 bushings in the rudder and replace the gudgeons? Ream and sleeve with stainless or bronze? I'm a bit surprised to find that the system still has aluminum wear surfaces after 30 years, but maybe this isn't how the system started out. I just want to get the slop out (and save the hull tops).
Image
Author:  waldorf [ Sun May 12, 2013 8:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rudder casting/gudgeon slop
What i think you need are at the bottom of page 24.... We bought these inserts and they worked quite well... removed a lot of play...
My holes were already seven sixteenths so it was an easy fix. Measure yours first or you will have to drill...

http://www.backyardboats.com/getattachm ... llers.aspx
Author:  AntonLargiader [ Sun May 12, 2013 8:35 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rudder casting/gudgeon slop
Those are the 8062001 bushings I referred to, thanks. How much vertical play did you have before, and did those bushings remove it?
Author:  BrianCT [ Sun May 12, 2013 8:40 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rudder casting/gudgeon slop
Anton, Go to about the 5:00 mark of this video....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jfn8f93XiQ
Author:  AntonLargiader [ Sun May 12, 2013 9:17 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rudder casting/gudgeon slop
Thanks. That video does illustrate a few things. I noticed a few things:

1) minor point - they use roll-pins for the cam while I assume most people use the split bolts that HC sells. Also, I have no idea why he installed the cam after the plunger; just means you have to hold the cam down a bit when you install it. Totally easy to do it the other way 'round.

2) he seems to have a lot of friction in the rudder swing-up pivot after using those large washers. Are they stock? I have a stack of very small ones in there which don't seem to work very well to stop the rudder from rocking, but the Hobie catalog washers look more like mine than his. Larger ones make more sense to me a far as tightening up the system, though.

3) also seems to have a lot of friction in the rudder casting mounting, but that probably loosens up quickly. Still, it's hard to tell what the effect is on vertical play since we never saw how much there was to start with.

4) he arbitrarily moved the cam plate all the way forward without even mentioning the rake screw at the bottom of the casting.
Author:  MBounds [ Sun May 12, 2013 4:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rudder casting/gudgeon slop
Go here: http://www.w1dm.com/projects/HOTLINE/Hotline.html

Download the Fall 2010 HOTLINE and check out the article on getting the slop out of the rudder system.
Author:  AntonLargiader [ Mon May 13, 2013 4:04 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rudder casting/gudgeon slop
Thanks for that link. Between that and the video, I think the gudgeon slop is pretty well covered and I will post info on the vertical play when I do the repair. Also well-covered is the rudder/casting slop, although I'm going to have to make up my own mind about the relatively small diameter of the plastic washers in the catalog.

Tiller/rudder slop, though, I'm still trying to get an understanding of. I realize that I can shim the back of the tiller to the rudder blade, but where the tiller casting hooks over the rudder casting (around the cam) there is lateral play that seems built-in; there is no appreciable wear that I can see on the aluminum parts. It seems that there could be plastic guides on the sides of the rudder casting that would center the tiller casting and remove this gap. As I don't have access to a new boat, I can't really determine why it wouldn't be present from new.

On to the tiller and crossbar, I have the Miracle caps and one of them (on the adjusting side) has some slop. It looks like there are individual parts available for this; do I need to replace the INSERT BEARING 40680001 or is there a simple adjustment I can do once I remove it? I don't want to remove it from the tiller arm without being able to reassemble it again.
Author:  AntonLargiader [ Mon May 27, 2013 5:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rudder casting/gudgeon slop
AntonLargiader wrote:
... I have the Miracle caps and one of them (on the adjusting side) has some slop. It looks like there are individual parts available for this; do I need to replace the INSERT BEARING 40680001 or is there a simple adjustment I can do once I remove it?


Answering my own question here, the slop in the end caps is controlled by the amount that the bolt is screwed in. It's not a shoulder bolt, and the final adjustment is held with red Loctite.

Image

I assumed the bearing would be worn, but the plastic washer under the bolt head is what wears (it's not protected from the bolt head) and that creates permanent slop in the system. You can see how the bolt head has chewed into the washer:

Image

I will reassemble with new washers (same bearings) and try to use stainless steel washers under the bolt heads to protect the plastic washers.
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