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shroud tension..... http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=6668	Page 1 of 1

Author:	italianhobie [ Sun May 06, 2007 11:05 am ]
Post subject:	shroud tension.....
hi to all how do u rig your boats.... u put the shrouds firm or slack ? need some tips... max

Author:	mmiller [ Sun May 06, 2007 6:02 pm ]
Post subject:	Tight
Firm - tight is pretty much the way to go on the Hobie 16. Slack shrounds would normally mean a slack or bowed forestay. That is not good for sailing up wind. Tighten the jib halyard to get all three wires rigid.

Author:	kiwihobie [ Sun May 06, 2007 6:10 pm ]
Post subject:
I usually pull the gib halyard gently until the side stays go just firm (i.e. no slack). I then pull a further 225mm (about 11 inches) and cleat it off. I find if I am sailing and the boat feels like it is dragging in the water or has not power, tighten the gib halyard and inch or two. If it is always flying a hull without picking up much speed, loosen the gib halyard an inch or two. If you're careful, you can do this on the water by turning into the wind and adjusting the gib halyard while parked up. Keep adjusting until it feels just right, and trust me, you'll know when it is going right. Happy adjustments

Author:	italianhobie [ Mon May 07, 2007 12:56 am ]
Post subject:
ok very nice thanx... i just bought a set of new wires for my h16 and since i'm a newbee i have found problem to set up my boat cause my h16 is a 86 boat and the old shourds was longer...... anyway,me and my crew are around 145\150 kg can someone give me a good start point ? i.e. shrouds on the 3\4 hole from the bottom.....jib tight or not. thanx,any help we'll be apreciated,and sorry my english. again thanx max

Author:	ALEXSAILS [ Mon May 07, 2007 7:23 am ]
Post subject:
My H16 is from 1987 and really dont know what lenght cables I have... What is the current or new lenghts for shrouds and forstays on the H16? thanks!!

Author:	abbman [ Mon May 07, 2007 7:40 am ]
Post subject:
If I were you I would just play with it to find out what you like. When I step my mast solo I like to start high on the shroud plate because I find that it makes attaching the forestay easier. Then I adjust the shrouds to be as tight/and even as possible. Since you have a crew out there with you just have him push on the mast in the direction that you are ataching the shrouds to give you some slack to work with. Then repeat on the other side. I think it may be difficult to just tell you which hole to start with because there are a few factors that may vary with everyones boat, such as mast rake. As for the jib I would pull it as tight as possible. Good luck and tell us how it goes.

Author:	hobie1616 [ Mon May 07, 2007 6:59 pm ]
Post subject:
Tight enough so when you pluck the shroud you'll hit high C. Once you're under way you will see some slack.

Author:	RickInMesa [ Mon May 07, 2007 7:28 pm ]
Post subject:	Safely Adjusting Shrouds
abbman wrote: Then I adjust the shrouds to be as tight/and even as possible. Since you have a crew out there with you just have him push on the mast in the direction that you are ataching the shrouds to give you some slack to work with. Then repeat on the other side. How do you safely adjust the shrouds down the chainplates to tighten up the rigging? I have new shrouds with a small marine eye, and to adjust them, I have to release the clevis pin. Even with somebody holding the mast, isn't there a risk that the whole thing will come crashing down? I've been out sailing twice with my new shrouds, old forestay, old jib, and double front chainplates (daisy-chained). When I set up the shrouds on the top holes of the 10-hole chainplates, I can BARELY get the forestay to reach the top hole of the top chainplate at the bow. The whole thing tightens up nicely when I raise the jib and cleat the halyard, so I'm not worried about the mast falling off. Rick

Author:	abbman [ Mon May 07, 2007 7:42 pm ]
Post subject:
I think that there is probably always some risk involed when raising the mast. Suprisingly, I don't find it too dificult to undo the clevis pin and re-adjust. It does take some fancy fingerwork though. Just pull like crap on the shroud before you undo it and try to hold that tension. Once I get the pin in I let the weight of the mast kind of hold it in place, of course I'm also keeping pressure on the pin while I attach the ring ding. I suppose if you were really concerned you could tie a line to the eye and then tie it off to something to act as a fail safe. Or if the eye is much too small you could maybe tie a simple noose right above the eye? Or maybe you could tie off above the trap handle? I'm not really sure, I haven't tested those methods. It took me a little while to be able to rig the boat completely solo but man what a feeling of accomplishment that is.

Author:	Speedawg [ Tue May 08, 2007 6:48 am ]
Post subject:
Hi all. When adjusting shrouds I simply hook into the trapeze and use my weight to hold the mast. I then am right at the chainplate for adjusting.

Author:	abbman [ Tue May 08, 2007 9:09 am ]
Post subject:
Great idea and a simple solution! I'll definately remember that one. I imagine that would allow you to use both hands rather freely.

Author:	hobie1616 [ Tue May 08, 2007 6:53 pm ]
Post subject:
Set them before you step the mast.

Author:	ewbike [ Tue May 08, 2007 7:58 pm ]
Post subject:
Speedawg wrote: Hi all. When adjusting shrouds I simply hook into the trapeze and use my weight to hold the mast. I then am right at the chainplate for adjusting. damn you are smart. simple is good

Author:	Banzilla [ Wed May 09, 2007 9:56 am ]
Post subject:
I will have to try the hook in trick, I have used a length of line with a loop in the end to rap around the trap handle and then stand on the line to hold the mast in place while adjusting the shroud. Good winds Sam

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