Abbman,
I did what Hobie1616 suggested and it works great for me. I'm probably able to acquire a more effective safety line that I wouldn' get if I connected it to the rear pylons.
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| Hawaii righting setup http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=7102 |
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| Author: | abbman [ Mon Jun 25, 2007 7:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Hawaii righting setup |
I apologize if this has been covered, I couldn't find it in a search of the forum. Is there any reason why the righting line can't be tied off to the rear pylon with this setup? I currently have it tied off to the rudder pins but that bulky bowline seems like it creates a lot of drag when sailing. If it were tied off to the pylon it would stay well out of the water. Does the extra bit of line tied to the rudder pin make the difference or would I not be able to effectively right the boat with the line tied to the pylons? Thanks |
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| Author: | hobie1616 [ Tue Jun 26, 2007 6:28 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Tying off to the pylon will probably work fine. If you do want the line to go all the way to the stern, drill a hole in the lip inboard of where the rudder pin hole is. It'll keep the line clear of the rudder assembly and out of the water. Use a stopper knot on the end. |
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| Author: | DavidBell47 [ Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Abbman, I did what Hobie1616 suggested and it works great for me. I'm probably able to acquire a more effective safety line that I wouldn' get if I connected it to the rear pylons.
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| Author: | abbman [ Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks guys. I really like that idea, plus it looks so nice and clean. What kind of line are you guys using for your righting line, ie. diameter and make (polyester?) I may try it on the pylon and see if I can right it and if not I'll drill. I think I need to tighten the bungee under the tramp also. DavidBell, you let me know when you want to come over to NC and help me restore my boat. That girl is sharp man. Thanks for all the pics you post. |
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| Author: | John Eaton [ Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What was done here in the midwest is a small (~1/4") line tied off at hole in the lip, at the transom, on the INSIDE of the rudder. This smaller line is then spliced or tied off to a larger line at at roughly the rear pylon. This precludes it getting fouled in the steering mechanism because it's small enough to go between the deck and tiller arm at any steering angle. |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Thu Jun 28, 2007 4:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
BTW, the proper knot to tie a smaller line to a larger line is a sheet bend: 
A square knot will not work. |
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| Author: | DavidBell47 [ Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey Matt, I'd been using a bowline but thanks. Does it matter which end is which? Think I'm gonna give it a try. Thanks again. |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:44 am ] |
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The smaller line should be the white one in the photo. Larger is the blue. |
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| Author: | hobie1616 [ Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used 5/16 yacht braid with knots tied in it to grip when righting the boat and for crews to use in case they need a chicken line. |
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| Author: | DavidBell47 [ Sun Jul 01, 2007 7:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Matt, The knot works wonderfully, even reversed (with the smaller rope being looped). The bind is strong and it's so neat. Thanks again. |
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| Author: | rbell [ Sat Jul 14, 2007 2:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What is teh proper way to route the shock cord? I have it on harken blocks going up and down under the tramp 3 times. |
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| Author: | hobie1616 [ Sat Jul 14, 2007 6:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That seems like a lot. Put a bullet block on the righting line and attach the bungee to the block, route the bungee through a bullet block that's tied to the tramp lacing at the rear beam and attach to the dolphin striker with hog rings. |
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| Author: | rbell [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 6:38 pm ] |
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ok, I bought a hawaiin righting system new from Murrays, rigged it up as indicated , and have 6-8 ' of slack in the system. I drilled a hole in the lip of the transom, and connected the 1/4" line with a stop knot, then attached the bigger line to that line with 2 bowlines. The big line then went out board of the shrouds, around the front port pylon, back to the bullet block attached to the traveller becket, then forward to the stb. forward pylon, etc. The only solution I see is to shorten the righting line, but seems like Murrays would have the lengths pretty well figured out. Any suggestions? I can post a picture if that will help. Thanks. |
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| Author: | DavidBell47 [ Wed Aug 01, 2007 7:35 pm ] |
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Could you post one please????? |
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| Author: | rbell [ Thu Aug 02, 2007 3:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I will tonight. I'm guessing maybe th eline is longer so it will fit an 18, or so one can put stop knots in it? But anyway, will post the picture tonight. |
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