This is the only curved base I could find:
Ronstan 40mm Curved Cheek Block Base
I used the regular cheek block and mounted it low on my mast.
Hobie Downhaul Cheek Block
Why would you want to adjust your jib halyard while underway?
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| Cheek block and cam cleat mast profile bases? http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=7980 |
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| Author: | ALEXSAILS [ Tue Sep 25, 2007 1:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Cheek block and cam cleat mast profile bases? |
Hi, I'm looking to add a mast cheek block on my h16 with the 29mm carbo cheek from Harken. Attached in the forward section of the mast. Therefore reducing the force on my jib halyard before I cleat. Im also looking on adding a 105 cam cleat to the side of the mast to be able to adjust jib halyard while underway. Does anyone know where I can find bases for both the cheek block and cam cleat that have the mast profile so they sit flat on the mast (half moon on one side/flat on the other) ??? thanks! |
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| Author: | ALEXSAILS [ Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
No one knows? |
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| Author: | skipper0802 [ Wed Sep 26, 2007 11:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
This is the only curved base I could find: Ronstan 40mm Curved Cheek Block Base
I used the regular cheek block and mounted it low on my mast. Hobie Downhaul Cheek Block
Why would you want to adjust your jib halyard while underway? |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Racers will adjust their jib halyard on the water to change their mast rake. The class legal set-up looks like this: 
Notice the halyard loops around the pin on the standard cheek block at the front of the mast. This keeps it from slipping off the block. The line is Dyneema - no stretch, but it has a waxy feel and is very slippery. The cam cleat will not hold it on its own, thus the continued need for a horn cleat. The cam cleat in this instance does not have a base. It's mounted on the flatest part of the mast with bolts. Personal experience with this is that it's very easy to ease; very hard to tighten. |
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| Author: | Doc Thirst [ Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ugg, I see a picture like the one above and I'm reminded of how bubble gum and duck taped my set up is. I can't wait to buy new. |
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| Author: | mmadge [ Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey Matt that looks like it could be your new boat? |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Wed Sep 26, 2007 5:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That it be. That picture was taken before it even got wet. Had it at a regatta two weekends ago and it did reasonably well. It's got some rudder issues that I need to deal with before next year, but they'll have to wait. I hoisted it to the celing in the garage for winter tonight. Meanwhile, the brand new 17 is sitting in the back yard, getting it's turn at tweaking. It'll be on the road to Rehoboth, DE in less than two weeks for the last regatta of the year. |
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| Author: | Karl Brogger [ Wed Sep 26, 2007 5:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
MBounds wrote: for the last regatta of the year.
I hate that time of year. |
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| Author: | gree2056 [ Wed Sep 26, 2007 6:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It is a bad feeling, but mine isn't until Oct 25 this year, and that is just for my boat. Then I have one more race on my buddies F28 Tri after that. |
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| Author: | Speedawg [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Matt I would like to do a similar setup for the jib halyard on my boat this winter. Could you supply me with the part numbers? And you mentioned the cam cleat is mounted with bolts? |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
It's a Harken 233 Micro cheek block and a Harken 338 Micro Cam-matic cleat with a fairlead. The cleat is mounted with #10 machine screws (that's one size larger than Harken recommends), drilled and tapped into the mast with blue LocTite to keep them in place and seal the holes. The cheek block is mounted with 3/16" stainless pop-rivets in sleeves to prevent leaks. I will re-emphasize the fact that you should not rely on the cam cleat to hold the halyard. It's working load is only 200 lbs and the waxy stock line will slip through it. It's only meant to hold the halyard temporarily while you make the end fast on the horn cleat. |
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| Author: | Speedawg [ Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Matt! I see in your pic that the horn cleat has been moved. I will have to move mine which is a very simple to do but it leaves holes even tho sealed bothers me. I am one of those picky kind of people. 
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| Author: | mmadge [ Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Matt do you find the jib halard line a little creepy.In the sense that it needs to be retightened to keep the same halyard tension. |
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| Author: | TrampLounger [ Fri Sep 28, 2007 11:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Is the jib halyard cleating system sold only as part of the Hobie 16 Power Pack? http://www.boatbits.co.nz/shop/Hobie+Cat/H16+Power+Pack/Hobie+16+Power+Pack.html Is the Power Pack even sold in the US? |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Fri Sep 28, 2007 11:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The halyard doesn't creep (stretch slowly under load) that I'm aware of. I'm not sure how you would tell since 1) I don't carry a tight rig and 2) When you're sailing around the cans, you're constantly loading and unloading the halyard everytime you tack, go downwind, etc. There's a lot of dynamic loading on the jib halyard. The "Hobie 16 Power Pack" is not listed in the 2007-08 catalog. I had everything in my parts box except for the cam cleat. Then again, my parts box is pretty full after 30+ years of doing this. I want to emphasize that this halyard arrangement is a waste of money for the average sailor. The only advantage is to top-level racers in around-the-bouys racing. You are better off spending the money to go get more time on the water. |
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