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Overhaul hull interior
http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=11116		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  KyleJHangsleaze [ Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Overhaul hull interior
Hi, first post, first hobie, first multi hull etc. I just bought my H14 and snooped around when I wasn't sailing and ended up resealing the fitting for the drain plug. In the process I discovered that my hull has an abundance of small, tear shaped tree nuts inside it. In addition to that, it has one soft spot and it is very damp on the inside. Also I don't believe there is any foam and if there is it is rotten. What would be the best way to get good access to the inside of my hull so that I can: clean it -- dry it -- patch a soft spot (if that is possible) and replace foam. Thanks for you time!

Also, would it be feasible or safe to use a marine edhesive to replace the mast base? If not I will rivet it.
Author:  Rick Buchanan [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 9:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Kyle, Don't use any bedding/calking compounds to seat the mast base...It will promote electrolysis by trapping moisture between the metal pieces. Use stainless or Monel rivets. As for making an opening in the hull, I can send you some photos of a port installation which might help. Send your personal email address to me at [email protected] when you get a chance.
Author:  KyleJHangsleaze [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 11:11 am ]
Post subject: 
Okay, just making sure about the mast. The supplied base doesn't have pre-drilled holes so I will have to borrow a drill press.
Author:  MBounds [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 3:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
KyleJHangsleaze wrote:
Okay, just making sure about the mast. The supplied base doesn't have pre-drilled holes so I will have to borrow a drill press.


You're taking this way too seriously. Just put the new base on the end of the mast and use the old holes in the mast as the template for the new holes in the base. Drill with a battery-powered hand drill (3/16" bit).

Old holes wallowed out? Drill new ones a 1/2" away from the old.

This whole job should take about 10 minutes, assuming the old base is already off the mast. That might add another 10.
Author:  Karl Brogger [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 4:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
MBounds wrote:
assuming the old base is already off the mast. That might add another 10.


I couldn't get my old mast base off the 14 for nothin'. I ended up drilling a hole in through the bottom, tapping it, and threading an eye bolt in. Tied the top of the mast off to one of the ballards outside my shop and hooked the winch on the ATV to the eye bolt.

If that hadn't worked, plan B was to hook up to the truck. :twisted:
Author:  KyleJHangsleaze [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 9:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yeah, I wasn't sure if the mast base was steel, which would make it much harder to drill. The current base is riveted, so, fingers crossed, Drilling those rivets should make the thing fall right off. Thanks for you replies.

Just an update, I got all the info I need about installing an inspection port. Thanks!
Author:  J_Eaton [ Fri Oct 31, 2008 9:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
Had a time getting mine off as well.

I got a towel wet with steaming hot water and wrapped it around the mast, not touching the base. Then quickly, pried in the gap with a couple of big flat blade screwdrivers, she popped right off.
Author:  Karl Brogger [ Sat Nov 01, 2008 8:58 am ]
Post subject: 
John, I wonder if that helped more with whatever they glue/seal them in with? For whatever reason I didn't think that it would be glued in. Whatever Hobie used in 1983 looked like some sort of mil-spec tough silicone. Nothing a 2000#winch, and a steel post filled, and anchored in concrete couldn't handle though. :D The only reason I replaced mine was that the hole the mast step pin goes through was cracked off. So it wasn't loose to begin with.

The base is aluminum BTW
Author:  KyleJHangsleaze [ Sat Nov 01, 2008 9:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Okay, aluminum won't pose a problem.
Author:  Sail Revolution [ Sat Nov 01, 2008 11:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
If the base is stuck, use a little heat from a torch. Works every time. Go easy, you don't want to get it too hot, just enough to break the corrosion. It's way easier on the bits than pounding it with a hammer ect...
Author:  KyleJHangsleaze [ Sun Nov 02, 2008 6:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't quite know if the base will be tricky to remove yet. But I will keep these suggestions in mind. My first guess would have been a hammer.
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