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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 11:11 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2012 10:09 am
Posts: 106
Location: Austin, TX
I used Bob Curry's tuning guide to set up my boat this season, and the boat feels "faster" than it has ever felt, but I am still not able to point as high as I feel that I should.

I understand that mast rake has perhaps the greatest effect on pointing ability, I am currently using the top hole in the forestay, 4th hole from the top of the shroud adjuster (this gives the amount of rake ~ 58in and degrees of twist ~120 in the side shrouds recommended in Bob's guide). *all boats are different, but these ballpark settings are a good starting point.

I have read several guides that recommend adding a forestay adjuster, and some recommend going block to block upwind like a 16. I have a neutral to slight weather helm at the current setup, and the boat foots well (I have been using VMG and footing more on the race course). I follow my leech telltales in the 3rd panel and and try to avoid over-sheeting.

The absolute worst is in winds in the 15-20mph range, I travel out to the straps to keep the boat flat and lose pretty much any hint of pointing ability that I had.

I sail mostly open class races, and I could be wrong, but it just doesn't seem like I should be severely out-pointed by H16's and P16's. I'm sailing too much distance to weather, over the course of a 10+ mile course it adds up.

Mast rake? Rig tension? Main sheet tension? What should I tweak to pick up a few degrees upwind?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 1:02 pm
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Location: Clinton Lake, Kansas
P16's will outpoint anything, but a Turbo 14 should outpoint the H16
Standard rig 14 will not outpoint either.

I'm in the top forestay hole too, and don't remember on the side stays.
Nothing wrong with footing as popping up is obviously slower.
long as you have good VMG.

Also I rig at 120 degrees and start tightening up a hole or two if it really starts to blow.

You do have newest length shrouds? If you set your rake, and 120 twist up like Bob says with old/longer shrouds, you'll have to travel WAY out.

EDIT: forgot to mention I'm sailing standard rig. Not certain that any of Bob (the master UNI-rig sailor) Curry's tuning tips translate to the Turbo
And...if you want to sail 14T pack that thing up and race against FIVE 14T's @ Lake Cheney this weekend! Ask around for Bob Bridgman, he can make a 14T point like a monohull. :o

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 1:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 1:20 am
Posts: 12
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Hi 83turbo

Bob says to tighten rig up when wind gets up, don't want 14t as sloppy as the cat rigged. Think mini Hobie 16

Also traveller only 3 inches off centre when trapping up wind, not out too straps unless reaching.

At 15 to 20 mph you will need plenty of downhaul to flatten sail and bend mast, also make sure mast doesn't over rotate.
Jib needs to be in tight enough for the foot to start to curl.
Have to watch the jib leach when jib in tight so it doesn't close up too much if wind drops.
Jib tailtales lifting in the windward side going up wind ideal!

Here's an old Aussie website for the 14t, not a lot but some useful info on the jib tailtales.
http://users.tpg.com.au/kkmiller/hobie/index.html
And here https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&sour ... utU_lzPTKg

Did have more info, just can't find it.

Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 6:59 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
There is just no way a H14 is going to compare to a H16 on any point of sail. You need to race against other 14's if you want to assess how you and your boat are performing, otherwise you're just guessing.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2016 4:19 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 1:20 am
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
More info 83turbo from Hobie University

Hobie 14 - Rigging and Tuning Guide
by Boyd Bass and Bob Mimlitch
This guide will help get you and your Hobie 14 in the ballpark, but remember it is only a guide, there are many
ways to sail a Hobie fast.
Rigging and Setup
Rig Tension Firm, but eased enough so mast rotates freely
Mast Rake Maximum rake, but keep enough leach tension on the mail sail: in light & heavy air keep a
loose leach. In moderate air keep the main powered up with more sheet tension. In
moderate air you should reduce mast rake if you are going block to block and the main is not
powered up.
Rudders Parallel, no toe in or out
Tramp Tight
Batten tension Just snug, release tension when not sailing.
Sailing Upwind

Light Air
Main Downhaul Just smooth (set with main sheeted normally)
Outhaul Just taut
Traveler Centered
Mainsheet Medium, do not over sheet, sheet in as wind builds
Tiller Steer so that leeward tell tale below H is flowing but on verge of stalling
Balance Bows depressed, skipper on crossbar or hull

Moderate Air
Main Downhaul Tight (set with main sheeted normally)
Outhaul Just taut
Traveler Centered
Mainsheet Tight
Tiller - Steer so that leeward tell tale below H is flowing but on verge of stalling
Balance Skipper on windward hull, boat level

Heavy Air
Main Downhaul Very tight, continue to tighten to keep hull from flying too high
Outhaul Tight, you want a flat sail
Traveler Centered, move up to 6" out if the hull continues to fly too high
Mainsheet Play the main to keep the windward hull skimming
Tiller Steer high in the gusts
Balance Skipper on windward hull, boat level

Sailing Downwind
Light to Moderate Air
Main Downhaul Ease
Outhaul Just taut
Traveler 3/4 to all the way out
Mainsheet Light tension, sheet in during gusts to pick up speed
Tiller Steer to keep bridle fly at or slightly aft of 90°
Balance Bows depressed, skipper on crossbar or hull

Moderate to Heavy Air
Main Downhaul Ease
Outhaul Bottom batten 4" to 6" draft.
Traveler 3/4 to all the way out
Mainsheet Medium tension, sheet in during gusts to pick up speed
Tiller Steer so leeward tell tale below H occasionally stalls, In gusts sail deeper

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