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| replacing cheek block on mast http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=3601 |
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| Author: | 747pilot [ Tue May 16, 2006 8:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | replacing cheek block on mast |
The sheave has worn out on my 16's mast cheek block. Anything special I should know about replacing it? Replace just the sheave? Thanks |
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| Author: | mmiller [ Tue May 16, 2006 9:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | Cheek Block |
The cheek block is a one piece fitting. The sheave is not replacable by itself. You will need the cheek block #20710000, 4 #8010181 Rivets and 4 #8011291 rivet sleeves (caps). It is possible that the rivet pattern is different than old boats. You should get a few extra rivets and caps to plug the old holes. |
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| Author: | rk04 [ Tue May 16, 2006 12:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have the same problem and from what I have seen, so do others. Is it more advisable to replace the block and risk getting water in the mast or just leave it be? |
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| Author: | Hobie Nick [ Tue May 16, 2006 1:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
On my old '86 H16 the block was missing when I bought the boat. I never bothered to replace it while I owned it. The guy who bought the boat from me hasn't done so either. I was always able to tighten the jib halyard just fine without it. I think it really depends on how badly you want that shieve there. |
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| Author: | jbreazil [ Sat Jul 29, 2006 11:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have a Harken 29mm Carbo cheek block I'm replacing my broken mast cheek block with. My question is the new Harken block does not seat flush with the curved mast, do I need some sort of base for mounting the block, or can I just rivet it to the mast? Anyone have any idea?? |
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| Author: | ALEXSAILS [ Sun Jul 30, 2006 9:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The factory cheek block on my mast is also shot, and need to replace.. I had the harken 29mm Carbo cheek block (H350 $8.75) also in mind,,, Dont see how it can be riveted to the mast, they dont seem to have the tangs like the regular Harken cheeks have... Any ideas? thanks! |
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| Author: | mmiller [ Mon Jul 31, 2006 4:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Use the factory part |
Use the factory part. The harken blocks (depending on model) do not have the load capacity. This is a major component in the forestay loads. You can turn a line around the post that is left, but you can damage the halyard itself. You need a sheave that the line can turn around. Also, do not cleat direct to the cleat. It does not have the needed strength. |
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| Author: | ALEXSAILS [ Mon Jul 31, 2006 4:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Even if we use the aussie halyard system which will take load off the halyard, will the cleat hold? Half of the H16's on the local fleet dont use the cheek block...they dont even have one in the mast.... I did notice the all have the aussie halyard. Any advise? |
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| Author: | hobie1616 [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 8:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used the Aussie system on two boats for over twenty years. Never had any problems with the cleat. |
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| Author: | sunjammers [ Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The factory part is cheep and works fine, yes your may be worn out but how old is your boat, they should last at least 8 years, more like 15 I would think. Even is the sheave is broken, go ahead a break it all the way off and use the stainless pin, will have more friction but the cleat will pull out of cleated off directly to it, I have had it happen on a few older boats where they bypass the cheek block., the block is $14.05, and works perfect! |
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| Author: | jbreazil [ Thu Aug 31, 2006 4:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I installed the 29mm Harken cheek block on my '78 H16 and I have had no issues sailing in reletively light to medium wind so far. I riveted the cheek block to the mast adding 3M 4200 to the rivets and block/mast union. I'm planning on taking it out to the bay and ocean this weekend out of Newport Oregon. I'll post more details if I have any problems. |
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| Author: | richandpat [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 3:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I replaced the cheek block on my 1979 mast with the Hobie part & stainless steel rivets & sleeves that Matt Miller recommended in a previous post. I drilled out the old rivets & used a 15/64' bit to clean out the holes to accommodate the sleeves. The holes from my old block lined up perfectly with the holes from my new block - lucky me. I popped in the rivets & sleeves with a long handle rivet tool & it was difficult. I'm sure it would've been more difficult with one of those cheapo hand tools. Then I replaced the downhaul block because the roller was missing on that part as well. I double swaged the wire on the thimble just for peace of mind. These projects went surprisingly easy for someone who isn't too mechanically inclined & I felt good about doing it myself. I went sailing two days ago & double trapped all afternoon in 15mph winds & everything held together, so I must've done everything right. Isn't it nice to have a boat where you can always get parts easily & get get advice from knowledgable people like Matt Miller & others who contribute to this site? Good luck on your project! Richard Levy |
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