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| Gudgeon repair http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=38052 |
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| Author: | Lakewateree [ Sat Aug 27, 2011 3:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Gudgeon repair |
I'm fixing up an 84 16 and today I noticed this problem on one of the upper gudgeons. The screw in the picture is fine and tightens, the other screw was larger and will not tighten. I removed it and there doesn't appear to be any threads in the hole it came out of. How would this be repaired? I was thinking about maybe going to the one piece version if this would make the repair easier but it looks as if you would use the same holes at the top. 
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| Author: | MBounds [ Sat Aug 27, 2011 8:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gudgeon repair |
The bolts thread into an aluminum plate that's glassed on the back side of the transom. You can't see the threads from the outside. You can try the next larger bolt up (off the top of my head, 1/4-20). Just run a tap through the hole. |
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| Author: | Lakewateree [ Sun Aug 28, 2011 4:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gudgeon repair |
Thanks for the advice! The bolt that was in the damaged hole was already bigger than the good one. Could I get away with going up another size? If so I would need to drill out the hole on the gudgeon as well correct? Reading some old threads it sounds like others have filled the holes and re drilled? What would you use to fill the hole if this is a proper fix. |
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| Author: | srm [ Sun Aug 28, 2011 2:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gudgeon repair |
Simply filling the hole and redrilling is not a good idea. The aluminum plate is what the bolt needs to thread into. Filling the hole will do nothing to reconnect the bolt to the aluminum plate as you will just be tapping into putty/resin. You could go up another bolt size, but you'd be up to a 5/16" bolt since the bolt was already increased once up to a 1/4-20. This means you'd have to remove even more material from the gudgeon. Also, the larger bolt head may interfere with the gudgeon or the rudder casting. If it were me, I'd install an access port in front of the transom and thru-bolt the gudgeons with 1/4"-20 nuts and bolts. sm |
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| Author: | Lakewateree [ Sun Aug 28, 2011 5:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gudgeon repair |
This is from Murrays... "Strongest gudgeons available and standard on newer boats! One-piece gudgeons are always in perfect alignment. Excellent replacement for Hobie® 14 or 16 cats that have lost the use of one or more gudgeon screws because this uses 8 fasteners (#19-3520) instead of only 6. Hobie® factory replacement part."  Could I install these leaving out one bolt and get away with not having to put access ports in? |
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| Author: | MBounds [ Sun Aug 28, 2011 7:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gudgeon repair |
Short answer is no - not the one you'd need to leave out. There are ways to fix this without cutting a port. Epoxy, thickened with a high-density filler (WEST 407) will hold the bolt - the trick is to fill the hole completely and get good adhesion to the surrounding material. You could also use a Helicoil http://www.mcmaster.com/#helicoil-inserts/=dtn9hd |
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| Author: | srm [ Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gudgeon repair |
A helicoil may be a workable solution. However, I would not trust threading a gudgeon bolt into thickened epoxy. There is too much load on those bolts and epoxy doesn't have nearly the shear or tensile strength of the aluminum plate. Getting a good bond between epoxy and aluminum can also be difficult if you don't clean the aluminum properly. You might be able to use the one-piece gugeon if you drilled a new hole just below the existing one and drill and tapped for a new bolt. But I still think thru-bolting would be the best option. It will be stronger than the original tapped plate. Plus a porthole only costs about $10 as compared to about $40 for the new gugeon. Having access ports also helps with hull ventillation or if you need to do future transom repairs. sm |
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| Author: | Lakewateree [ Mon Aug 29, 2011 7:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gudgeon repair |
I may go ahead and do the thru hull deal even though I hate to cut into it. I suppose I would use the smallest porthole I could get away with? Curved or not? |
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| Author: | srm [ Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Gudgeon repair |
Probaby a 4" curved porthole. If you have large hands, it will be tight working in there, but should be enough space to put nuts on the bolts. Be sure to use washers as well. This is a pretty common place to put a porthole on a Hobie 16, or any Hobie for that matter. sm |
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