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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2021 9:38 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2019 5:43 am
Posts: 17
Our 2007 Getaway has a good bit of wear to the tang and I would like to replace. Does anyone have tips on doing the replacement? At first I thought it would be straight forward... Drill off the rivet heads, knock out the old rivets with a punch, use some sort of sealer and rivet on the new one... but I read there is a backing plate. I can imagine it will be knocked off or pushed back when driving out the rivets. I'm not sure if the backing plate is held in place by the foam core or not. Unfortunately, I re-glued a lose comp tip a year or so ago... Never thought of replacing the tang at that time.

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one thought I had was try to knock one rivet out at a time and try using Cleco fasteners, like in body panel work, to hold the backing plate in place. I have not used these before but do a little fabrication, so I would have a use for them after purchasing. If you're not familiar with them look for a video. they are like a temporary rivet.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2021 3:16 pm 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:05 pm
Posts: 105
Location: Franksville, WI.
Maybe take a couple of stainless washers & tack weld them on each side? If you really want to get fancy, drill the tang to the outside diameter of the washer & weld in place, do it in a few steps to keep the heat down. Grind smooth & it will look like new. Steve.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2021 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
Posts: 984
Location: Benicia, CA
I wouldn't replace that just because it is misshapen a little. You bolt a huge bow shackle to that spot, right? The two shrouds and forestay attach to the bow shackle. That little distortion is of little consequence. I'm trying to imagine how the distortion occurred.

Most masts do not have a backing plate behind that fitting. Hobie might do it different, but most aluminum masts have it just pop riveted on.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 8:06 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Aug 18, 2019 5:43 am
Posts: 17
Steve C, Thanks for the reply. I wish I had a welder that would handle stainless. I think that would be a good solution to tig some additional metal on the sides. Obviously, I could take it to a weld shop, but I always struggle with trusting someone to do a good job.

tpdavis473, Thanks for the reply. I never thought about the shrouds and forestay attaching to the bow shackle and the three would be taking most of the load... Maybe they could have been too tight at some point or the load of the main sail pulling back on the mast (I would think)... The other factor could be, not the first, but previous owner left it mast up during summer months. Not related, but when we purchased it, there was at least two gallons of water in the mast.

We like to day sail off the beach, so I like to keep weak points eliminated, that is why I'm thinking to replace it. As for the backing plate. The tang is mounted to the comp tip, so I could see why they would add a backing plate. The rivets would probably pull out of the fiberglass.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 9:49 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
Posts: 984
Location: Benicia, CA
If he left it upright all summer, that could explain that distortion, especially if he didn't secure it fore-aft so it didn't wobble too much. The distortion looks like something had pounded in that hole, so I expect that is what occurred. Still, I understand wanting things to be pristine, but it'd be more work than its worth to replace. That fitting doesn't see a huge load (which is why it can be held on with pop rivets) and the remaining stainless is still thicker than the shaft on the smallest rod holding the mast up.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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