Here are a couple of thoughts on clevis pins and rings (ring dings). They are definitely more secure than a quick release pin, so if you can learn to work with them they are the most secure connection. They don't require special tools. Small rings can be stiff, so a small blade driver to open may make them easier.

Normally you can pry open with your thumbnail. Place the nail in the ring within 1/8-1/4 inch of the end to pry open. push your thumb and forefinger in opposite directions to pry open. Slip onto the clevis pin and spin on.



Pry open with the clevis pin. Use the pin to wedge the ring open.



Pry open with a small tool.



There is a tool that holds them open for installation. Fishing shops may have that. Needle nose pliers or forceps work too.

Tape

I tape every ring that is not required to be removed. The ones at the anchor pin, twist toggle and shrouds (H16 / One side on other models requiring rig tensioning via the shroud). Tape helps to keep the rings from twisting out and covers the sharp ends that could catch on a sheet, rope or dock. Catching a line on a ring can pull them right out of a clevis pin. Also use boots over the adjusters. Use caution when pulling the boots down over the rings. Fold the ring flat against the adjuster / wire as you drop the boot down. This helps to prevent the boot from catching a ring and peeling it out.

Tape every ring that could possibly catch on lines or sails. This is especially true for spinnaker equipped boats or for longer voyages.

You can use a small piece of tape folded over the ring like bread on a sandwich or tape clear round the adjusters and rings several times.

On my Wave I use ring-dings for the sidestays and also thread small zip ties through them to minimize tampering by beach pinheads. On the forestay/bridle I use an extra long (1-1/2") fastpin. I tie a loop of small shock cord through the fastpin ring and stretch it back over the end of the fastpin to keep it in place. Under load, sailing in the Gulf, I've never had a fastpin attempt to walk itself out of the forestay adjuster.

The fastpin is easy to install when stepping and unstepping the mast. I also carry an extra fastpin (with the small shock cord loop) clipped to a small bag carried on the tramp.

bill

On my Wave I use ring-dings for the sidestays and also thread small zip ties through them to minimize tampering by beach pinheads. On the forestay/bridle I use an extra long (1-1/2") fastpin. I tie a loop of small shock cord through the fastpin ring and stretch it back over the end of the fastpin to keep it in place. Under load, sailing in the Gulf, I've never had a fastpin attempt to walk itself out of the forestay adjuster.

The fastpin is easy to install when stepping and unstepping the mast. I also carry an extra fastpin (with the small shock cord loop) clipped to a small bag carried on the tramp.

bill

On my Wave I use ring-dings for the sidestays and also thread small zip ties through them to minimize tampering by beach pinheads. On the forestay/bridle I use an extra long (1-1/2") fastpin. I tie a loop of small shock cord through the fastpin ring and stretch it back over the end of the fastpin to keep it in place. Under load, sailing in the Gulf, I've never had a fastpin attempt to walk itself out of the forestay adjuster.

The fastpin is easy to install when stepping and unstepping the mast. I also carry an extra fastpin (with the small shock cord loop) clipped to a small bag carried on the tramp.

bill