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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:29 am 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Deefa wrote:
Hi.
I have started making some haka's roughly based on stringy v3 models.

I'm using less rungs - and I plan on using some diamond security mesh under a couple of layers of closed cell foam.

Does anyone know where you can get the aluminium mesh (preferably cheap)? I remember seeing some thrown out up the road a while back, now I'm kicking myself I didn't pick it up!

Deefa,
Any aluminium window manufacturer wil have the security mesh. I'm not sure if you saw it but back on P13 my first haka were made with a ladder and security mesh spanning the rungs.
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=37645&start=180
The reason I didn't use it on Haka V3 was to save weight. Having lots of lightweight 'rungs', spaced close enough together so that the cushions wouldn't fall through, ended up being much lighter but still strong enough to stand on.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:39 am 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Nohuhu,
Just wanted to thank you for the advice on the Harken HK476 X-treme Angle fairlead.
I've just fitted and tested it on the TI and it makes adjusting the sheet from any position on the haka so much easier.
A highly recommended upgrade for haka users! 8)
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Last edited by stringy on Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:29 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2012 5:30 am
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Location: Gulf Shores, Alabama
I was on the Harken website and couldn't find the HK471 X-Treme riser.
But here's what I did find, http://www.harken.com/search.aspx?s=X-treme+Angle+fairlead

Micro Cam-Matic® Kit — X-Treme Angle Fairlead -
Includes cam468
Includes fairlead476
OR
Standard Cam-Matic® Kit — X-Treme Angle Fairlead
Includes cam150
Includes fairlead375

Would either of these work and will it also benefit from a riser which I recall seeing in another thread awhile back?

Thanks,


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:47 am 
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The cleat itself is the Harken 471; hobie adds the eye fairlead to it.

I got the extreme angle fairlead, p/n 476, at West Marine for $15.
http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5369

I took my cleat down to West Marine when I bought it just to be sure I was getting the right thing.

I also had to get some longer stainless bolts, which required some fitting as they have to be relatively flush when installed - so I got them slightly long, fabbed it up, then marked/cut the bolts, and fit the aka to make sure. Final installation was done by cleaning the threads and bolts with solvent, then installing with loctite blue, then a coat of boeshield to protect things. I think it's important to ensure all surfaces are absolutely clean and salt-free before an installation like this - no matter how minor - as it's a perfect location for hidden corrosion.

-RH

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Oahu, Hawaii
www.rotorheadsblog.blogspot.com


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:57 am 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Apologies for the typo Jim. I've edited my post, and thanks Rotorhead for your post.
The correct part is the HK 476 Micro X-Treme Angle Fairlead.
I got only the fairlead and fitted it to the original cam.
You will need longer SS machine screws as Rotorhead pointed out.
I could only get #8-32 x 2" Phillips countersunk here and had to cut them down to fit. I measured how much screw was left in the Hobie bits and kept it the same. It's only about 4 threads.
You don't want them hitting the aka locating bits. I too used Loctite Blue.

A riser may help but it works well enough without it.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:36 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 2:31 pm
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Location: Kailua 96734
We'll done, men.

After a couple years, ours are still holding.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 3:59 am 
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Location: Gulf Shores, Alabama
Thanks for the update guys ! I only sailed 4-5 times in 2014 and need to dust the TI off and get 'er ready for the water. Busy year.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 5:48 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:14 pm
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Location: South Florida
Yes, Jim, get things dusted off and back on the water. We've been missing you.

Nancy & I are heading down to FLM today and then out to MidCape for a long weekend. Perfect weather.

Keith

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"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex ... It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." A. Einstein

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 6:04 am 
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Location: Gulf Shores, Alabama
That should be a very nice trip Keith. As you said, perfect weather this weekend too.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 1:04 pm 
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Wow, this one has been right in front of me for a while.

We've discussed the issue of using SUPs as hakas (expensive, a bit fragile, heavy).

How about roto-SUPs? Saw these at sports authority...not exactly cheap, a bit big/bulky, heavy, and probably a dog to actually surf...but a possible alternative to spineboards:

http://www.sportsauthority.com/product/ ... &view=grid

And available in yellow, so...

-RH

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2013 Tandem Island "Victory Lane"
Oahu, Hawaii
www.rotorheadsblog.blogspot.com


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 10:01 am 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Meh,.. I'm still very attached to my woodie.

Actually, I've been anxious to see you fglass up a pair. Or at least strap on a couple tankers, as in Hobies Catalina Isle video. 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 10:52 am 
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Honestly I like my woodies as well, but just an idea for folks on here (Matt, where's our damn roto hakas...).

I have no orders or projects going on for the new year, so was thinking of shaping a pair of 7' funboards, with a thin ply laminate on the bottom so I could use them as hakas (the ply in place to keep the akas from crunching the bottom of the board). There are a couple of outer reefs on the south shore that are SUP only because of the distance from shore, but when the trades kick up the SUPpers can't hack it, so the TI gets us to an empty break. Usually we just throw whatever boards onto the tramps, but again without anything on the project bench, why not...plus I can maybe do a Hobie yellow resin tint.

-RH

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2013 Tandem Island "Victory Lane"
Oahu, Hawaii
www.rotorheadsblog.blogspot.com


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 12:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:27 am
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Hi All

I'll admit that I've not read every page re the Hakas, although lots of great info in the pages I have read. So apologies if the below has already been covered. I was in our local hardware chain, (Bunnings), and came across the below, which I thought might be a good base for making Hakas, if you want to stay away from wood. From what I coud tell most of the weight is I the steel backbone and folding leg assemblies. Substituting the steel for some aluminum square section seemed like a workable solution to me? One thing I wasn't sure of, was how suitable the 183cm length would be? What's other people's thoughts on using this for a Haka?


http://www.bunnings.com.au/marquee-fold ... -_p3191358

Product Description
Product Details
Model Name6ft Folding Trestle Bench Model Number80337
MaterialHigh Density Polyethylene Plastic / SteelColourAlmond / Bronze Sand
Product Dimensions (mm)W:292 H:422 L:1830Package Dimensions (mm)W:1102 H:127 L:1137
W:1080 H:584 L:1123
Weight6.76kg Frame Material


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 6:24 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2011 3:57 am
Posts: 244
Location: Fairfax, CA USA
Probably depends on how the hinge is set up. I tried a few of folding patio loungers, but the hinges relied on the legs for support, without the legs sitting on solid ground they were useless.

Try it and see!
Worst case is you have a nice folding table.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 4:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2011 5:58 pm
Posts: 36
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Here's another variation on the haka theme.
I made this haka about two years ago and have found it so useful I have never used my TI without it since. This was Mark 1, length 1575mm, weight 2.8 Kg without seat, 3.5 Kg with. Mark 2, for the other side, is the same except longer at 2155mm and 3.6 Kg without seat. I made the longer one to increase the platform for storage, but haven't used the extra length and I suspect I will end up cutting it down to the same size as Mark 1.
The material is aluminium Qubelok, 25 x 25 mm x 1.2mm thickness, cost $4.15/metre. With plastic joiners, cable ties, silicone for waterproofing the joints, and blind rivets, I estimate total cost around $50.00. Tools required were hacksaw, file, cordless drill and rivet gun. The base under the seat is a kid's body board, $5.00 at Cheap as Chips. The seat, which makes a huge difference to comfort and security, is a SEAK Kayak seat, cost $45,00 from Anaconda on special. I have just ordered a similar one for the other haka at $43.00 from Kayaks2fish online, as they seem to be the cheapest around at present.
To attach, I hook the front bracket over the forward aka and use two bungee loops to secure the rear. No movement even in fairly choppy seas, though I would bungee the front as well if I were heading offshore. I always use trampolines, and this has been enough to protect the forward aka's paint from scratching. If used without the tramps, some padding of the bracket would be required.
The hakas are reasonably strong, and support my 85 Kg safely without bending. I think they would probably bend (but not break) if I fell or sat hard on the middle section, so I am careful to sit at the rear placing my weight over the rear aka. I also usually lash a plastic storage box to the front section, which is invaluable for carrying fishing tackle, dry bags, etc.
My hakas are far from the best looking around, and they are not heavy-duty, but they are easy to make, cheap, light and easily repairable (I think)
Still waiting for Hobie to produce their own factory version, but till then........

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Last edited by abonnin on Mon Jan 05, 2015 2:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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