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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2020 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 09, 2019 8:57 am
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Thanks for your reply! I have another question. I see you placed your mounting ball at the extreme aft position. Are you comfortable with the placement? I notice you've installed without the rubber rest. Could you have mounted the ball a few inches forward (to accommodate the rest) without compromising your design? The Torqueedo installation instructions seems to indicate it is some kind of option "if desired, install the rubber rest". Can you shed some light?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2020 6:51 am 
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Posts: 469
alpert711 wrote:
Thanks for your reply! I have another question. I see you placed your mounting ball at the extreme aft position. Are you comfortable with the placement? I notice you've installed without the rubber rest. Could you have mounted the ball a few inches forward (to accommodate the rest) without compromising your design? The Torqueedo installation instructions seems to indicate it is some kind of option "if desired, install the rubber rest". Can you shed some light?

There is really no need at all for the rubber rest. If properly tightened, the shaft attached to the ball mount does not move. I even trailer my TI with the 403 mounted (ask me how if interested).

The position of the mounting ball as shown is perfect for the TI. This setup has been in heavy-duty use for five years now with zero issues. Other mounting positions may work but I cannot verify that.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2020 6:53 am 
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Thanks again. I've decided to duplicate your mounting based on your experience. I'd be curious to see your travel mounting arrangement, but I'm going with detaching the boom from the mounting ball with each use. Another contributor on these pages has suggested replacing the boom retainer bolt with a cam lever bolt, such as you might find holding the wheel to the frame of a bicycle. Here's a link to the product on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013I ... UTF8&psc=1

I'm impressed, and plan to also duplicate the arrangement of springs, turnbuckles and shock chord you created in order to slave the motor to the rear tiller, and even purchased a Yakima WindJammer-have you hit on a good way to keep it in place yet?

Curious, too how you mounted your throttle...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2020 6:13 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:13 pm
Posts: 469
alpert711 wrote:
Thanks again. I've decided to duplicate your mounting based on your experience. I'd be curious to see your travel mounting arrangement, but I'm going with detaching the boom from the mounting ball with each use. Another contributor on these pages has suggested replacing the boom retainer bolt with a cam lever bolt, such as you might find holding the wheel to the frame of a bicycle. Here's a link to the product on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013I ... UTF8&psc=1

I'm impressed, and plan to also duplicate the arrangement of springs, turnbuckles and shock chord you created in order to slave the motor to the rear tiller, and even purchased a Yakima WindJammer-have you hit on a good way to keep it in place yet?

Curious, too how you mounted your throttle...

Mounting the throttle is very simple, just use a RAM MOUNT. I'll take a photo later today and post it for you.

You'll get quite tired of detaching the boom from the mounting ball with each use (it's just not practical) and you'll want to tow the motor mounted on the boat. I'll also take a photo of how to do that as well. It's simple and works well with no issues. I've been doing it for years.

My advice now, after years of running this setup, is to not tie the motor to the rudder. It's just not worth it. Simply set the motor straight back and steer as normal with the rudder. This works just as well and you don't need to bother with the complex setup of springs, turnbuckles, and shock chord. If you want a backup in case the rudder breaks, simply attach two lines to the motor and manually manipulate them to get back to shore. I keep two such lines with me just for this purpose but so far, I've never had to use them.

The Yakima Windjammer will give you a little extra performance, but again, I wouldn't bother. It would need to be screwed into the 403's shaft which could invalidate your motor's warranty. It's really not worth it.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2020 5:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2015 7:18 am
Posts: 70
Location: Sydney, Australia
pro10is wrote:
Simply set the motor straight back


Just wondering how did you secure it straight?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2020 5:33 am 
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dammit wrote:
pro10is wrote:
Simply set the motor straight back


Just wondering how did you secure it straight?

It has a provision for this built-in. There are holes in the mount which allow you to fix the motor in any position. Very simple.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2020 6:06 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2015 7:18 am
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Location: Sydney, Australia
I see ! Never noticed this before. Just need some type of long wire pin or bolt to slot in there. I must try this next time I am on the water to see how it goes with just the rudder.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2020 8:56 pm 
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Posts: 28
Do you recommend the new 3hp torqeedo? Or is it too heavy for the hull?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 3:55 pm 
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HobieTI wrote:
Do you recommend the new 3hp torqeedo? Or is it too heavy for the hull?

The new Torqeedo Ultralight 1103 AC 3HP motor weighs only 34 lbs. including the battery. It's not too heavy for the hull.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 8:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 19, 2020 2:01 pm
Posts: 74
Location: SW Florida
pro10is wrote:
atv223 wrote:
After lurking, researching and talking about this for far to long, I finally took the plunge and did the outboard mod. It has been fun to see over the last couple of years how the mounts have evolved. I didn't do a whole lot to advance this design. It's simple, solid and can be built with basic tools. You could literally build this with a hand held drive and a hack saw. That said, a few other tools make it cleaner and easier. I used just under 36" of 2"x1/4" walled square tubing and 12" of 1.25x1/8" walled square tubing. To cut the aluminum, I did something a bit different. I bought a non-ferrous metal cutting blade from Amazon for my miter saw and a speed control from Harbor Freight to slow the saw motor down. It was an inexpensive great combination for cleaning and easily cutting the Aluminum.

I do have some thoughts on an improvement in the design. The improvement makes the build more complicated but allows for greater adjustment of the system.

What really amazed me was just how solid the whole mount to boat turned out to be.

I'm happy to answer any questions on the build. Maiden voyage is a week away!

https://www.amazon.com/Concord-Blades-ACB1000T100HP-10-Inch-Non-Ferrous/dp/B00LFCMTHY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1KX43479PX20L&keywords=non-ferrous+metal+cutting+saw+blade+10+inch&qid=1562379152&s=gateway&sprefix=non-fer%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-3

https://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html?_br_psugg_q=speed+control

Image

Great job! One of the cleanest and best engine mounts yet. It looks like you incorporated all the upgrades and made a few of your own.

Let us know how it works.

@pro10is

i have an Adventure Island, 2017, single seater and have read almost all the topics and threads more than a few times.
i like the idea of hanging a torqueedo 403 off the back with a 915wh battery.
i live in SW Florida where locally there are 400 miles of dredged canals off the Caloosahatchie river.
i use the AI for exercise but like and need a bit of help at times.
i’ve noticed the 403 with the 915 battery runs about $2,300 from Defender (1hp)
i’ve also noticed the torqueedo 503 with a 915 battery is almost $500 _less_

https://www.defender.com/search.html?q=torqeedo
has anyone thought about using slotted t-track?

https://www.mcmaster.com/t-slotted-trac ... ing-rails/

i have also seen the tiny 2.5 gas stinkers hanging off the sides of tandem islands on an aluminum ?transom?
is there any reason a torqueedo 503 could not do the same?
is there room?
is this a “bad idea”
i’m just learning, am 72, and after the winds today definitely need a motor at times. i could barely make any headway pedaling back and was getting blown around, centerboard down, no sail (left at dock)
this was an a canal and i would have been in extremely serious trouble out on the river.
summer times we get sudden down bursts daily between 2-4pm.
after discovering how the shear pins holding the aka’s easily shear and fold in, i put the trampolines on and ordered 20 pins.

is the idea of a 503 off an aluminum type side transom a reasonable idea?
the 503 is almost $500 less, so the cost of the mount would be a wash


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 6:55 am 
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winfield100 wrote:
@pro10is

i have an Adventure Island, 2017, single seater and have read almost all the topics and threads more than a few times.
i like the idea of hanging a torqueedo 403 off the back with a 915wh battery.
i live in SW Florida where locally there are 400 miles of dredged canals off the Caloosahatchie river.
i use the AI for exercise but like and need a bit of help at times.
i’ve noticed the 403 with the 915 battery runs about $2,300 from Defender (1hp)
i’ve also noticed the torqueedo 503 with a 915 battery is almost $500 _less_

https://www.defender.com/search.html?q=torqeedo
has anyone thought about using slotted t-track?

https://www.mcmaster.com/t-slotted-trac ... ing-rails/

i have also seen the tiny 2.5 gas stinkers hanging off the sides of tandem islands on an aluminum ?transom?
is there any reason a torqueedo 503 could not do the same?
is there room?
is this a “bad idea”
i’m just learning, am 72, and after the winds today definitely need a motor at times. i could barely make any headway pedaling back and was getting blown around, centerboard down, no sail (left at dock)
this was an a canal and i would have been in extremely serious trouble out on the river.
summer times we get sudden down bursts daily between 2-4pm.
after discovering how the shear pins holding the aka’s easily shear and fold in, i put the trampolines on and ordered 20 pins.

is the idea of a 503 off an aluminum type side transom a reasonable idea?
the 503 is almost $500 less, so the cost of the mount would be a wash

If you read my posts here, you'll know that I'm a huge advocate of using a motor with the TI or AI. I feel this is one of the best upgrades you can do to improve the performance, enjoyment, and especially the safety of these boats. So, I highly encourage you to add a motor, especially for the sailing that you do.

You can add either a gas or electric motor. I've done both. If you read all of this thread, I go into the pros and cons of each.

The Torqeedo 403 series with the ball mount is perfect for the TI or AI. It installs very easily and is virtually no hassle to use at all. It's there when you need it and it's no burden when you don't. I haven't yet mounted a 403 with the new mount. If I can get my hands on one, I'll do an installation write-up on that in the near future.

Any of the Torqeedo outboard style motors including the 503 can certainly be used as well, and you're correct, you can use the same type of aluminum mount that you use for a gasoline outboard. It should work just fine. The primary disadvantage is that you won't have the nice remote throttle. The other disadvantage is that the motor will be hanging off of the side. This is not as convenient or as efficient as a motor mounted in the back. But if these issues are not a major concern for you, then any of the Torqeedo outboard style motors should serve you well.

You'll need to fabricate a motor mount for the 503 yourself. This does require some DIY skills, but everything you need to know is in this thread.

Let me know if you have any further questions.


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