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Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=52795		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Beaufort [ Sat Sep 06, 2014 3:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
I found a "gently used" Hobie Pro Angler 12 and bought it considerably discounted from its price new. It came with a live well and a set of wheels, which made the discount even nicer. Yesterday I attached the PA to the back of a four-wheeler and transported it at 6 mph and less about a fifth of a mile to the back of my field where I put in. When I flipped the PA upside down to return it to storage, I discovered that the wheels had carved little divots in the hull where when the wheels actually came into contact with it during transport (see attached image at https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/513 ... 0divot.jpg)

1) Do you think applying and contouring some epoxy would adequately restore the hull to its before condition?
2) Does it seem to you that the divots are close to piercing the hull through?
2) What's the fix?
A. Stop transporting it with the four-wheeler?
B. Put something firm around the support bar that will prevent the hull from coming into contact with the wheels?
C. Buy softer and wider balloon wheels for transport (which is what I had with the kayak it replaced)?
D. Something else.
Author:  bighugetrout [ Mon Sep 08, 2014 11:12 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
You need the black spacers.

http://www.hobiecat.com/accessories/carts/
Author:  mmiller [ Mon Sep 08, 2014 11:37 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
Cart instructions include the need for spacers below the cart clamps to properly support the heavier weight of a Pro Angler. This keeps the load from touching the tires.

Quote:
Pro Angler Specific Concerns
1- Cart post length as described above.
2- Distortion of keel by leaving cart under boat.
3- Use Cart Bushings as described above. The pronounced keel of the Pro Angler is at additional risk of distortion without the use of cart bushings during normal use. Heavier loads can cause clamps to slip. Use 1" Diameter PVC schedule 80 as a sleeve. (2" long sleeves suggested for PA12/14 on Trax 2-30 to keep hull above tires)
Once again, always remove the kayak from the cart after use. Store the kayak as described in the owners manual. Do not store a kayak on the cart.


Not sure on a repair process, but if not through the hull... water tight... should operate still.
Author:  NINCO1 [ Mon Sep 08, 2014 2:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
The cart is not made to transport the PA under power. You may think that 5-6 mph is slow, but the weight of the PA bouncing caused the divot. At least there was no damage to the scuppers.... And you didn't crack the welds holding the horizontal bar to the verticals.
If you can find one of the kids swimming pool "noodles" for about a buck or two at a Dollar store or Walmart, you can raise the PA off the wheels and only the horizontal bar. Cut two pieces of the noodle to about 3" thick and slide one down each metal tube. That should solve the problem.... But again, if possible, walk the PA, don't tow it...... And good luck and enjoy the 12.
Author:  Memory Maker [ Mon Sep 08, 2014 4:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
That's not his question ......... He's asking how to rebuild the places that were worn thin. Any suggestions
Author:  redsinthehead [ Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
clean well with acetone, smear a little 5200 over the divots. Don't use the fast dry... will take 3-4 days to harden.
Author:  Beaufort [ Tue Sep 09, 2014 7:52 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
I'm not very good with this forum yet, so I just now got the responses to my original post.

Thanks for the info, folks. Because I bought everything used, I didn't get the literature that came with it, and I didn't realize that pulling the kayak at such a slow speed posed a hazard for the kayak and the transport device. I also didn't get those little black spacers with it. I do have a noodle and will proceed to cut off a couple of lengths of it of it shortly. Is that as good as PVC pipe? But even after putting the noodle or pvc on it, I still should not tow the kayak behind a four-wheeler or riding mower at a slow speed? The place where I put the kayak in is a fifth of a mile away, and the kayak is pretty heavy even when it's on the transport wheels.
Author:  Memory Maker [ Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
......... you can probably tow it but just go walking speed and make sure nothing is rubbing. Remember, the scupper cart is going thru the scupper holes that can and have broken so there can't be too much stress on them. Towing can put stress on them. Just be careful. A strap on cart might be a better solution. You can make 1 using wheels and PVC pipe. A trailer is the best solution.
Author:  Beaufort [ Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:03 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
Thanks. Before I realized I was supposed to have the collars on the cart and wasn't sure what the fix was, I ordered a strap-on cart on eBay, where you can obtain them quite cheaply. I had already decided that was probably the safest kind of cart to use. I had one with balloon tires that I sold with an older, cheaper kayak and quickly regretting having sold it.

Memory Maker wrote:
......... you can probably tow it but just go walking speed and make sure nothing is rubbing. Remember, the scupper cart is going thru the scupper holes that can and have broken so there can't be too much stress on them. Towing can put stress on them. Just be careful. A strap on cart might be a better solution. You can make 1 using wheels and PVC pipe. A trailer is the best solution.
Author:  Jim_MI [ Tue Sep 09, 2014 7:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
redsinthehead wrote:
clean well with acetone, smear a little 5200 over the divots. Don't use the fast dry... will take 3-4 days to harden.

What is 5200?
Author:  NINCO1 [ Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Problem with Hobiecat wheel transport
It's good that you're getting a cart, but if you do use your existing wheels.... The noodles act as a spacer and as they're foam, they act as a cushion as well. The black spacers ( that seem to be missing) are made of rubber and have a set screw on each so you can adjust how far the posts go up into the scupper holes. Properly adjusted, you have THREE points of contact on the PA.... The two rubber spacers and the horizontal bar with the black cushion. Adjusted this way puts the least amount of stress on the hull and scupper holes. The noodles add additional cushioning. Don't use PVC. Because you don't have the black rubber spacers, use bigger noodle pieces (maybe 4-5 inches) to get the optimum 3 points of contact between the wheels and the hull (if you're going to use the wheels). Test the spacing by sitting the PA on the wheels for a few minutes so it squashes the noodles down a bit. Also be sure the posts go all the way through the scupper holes so you can set the "safety pin" so the wheels can't lift out.
5200 is one of many types/brands of marine sealant.
Anyway, everyone here has good ideas and likes to help anyway possible.... Do what's best for your circumstances and abilities, and most importantly be safe and have fun with your PA.
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