Thanks, Fellas,
If I can't get one of your ideas to work I'll be buying some factory jib blocks from Matt's crew at HC. My crew says she'll jump ship if I can't get the jib blocks adjusted properly.
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| Can't adjust cam cleats on jib blocks http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11370 |
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| Author: | MVD [ Sat Dec 13, 2008 11:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Can't adjust cam cleats on jib blocks |
My 1997 H-20 has Hobie's standard issue Harken jib blocks. I'm unable to adjust the angle of the cam cleats relative to the rest of the block assembly because the screws are in so that tight I can't back them out. The slot isn't deep enough to allow much pressure to be applied with a screw driver without the blade slipping out of the slot and stripping the screw heads. WD-40 and Liquid Wrench aren't helping. Does anyone have any suggestions for loosening these screws? If not, does anyone know who can repair Harken blocks? New ones are running $140 each. Ouch! Thanks, |
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| Author: | mmiller [ Sun Dec 14, 2008 4:00 pm ] |
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Cut a new screw driver slot with a hack saw. The rest is a two person job... Get a blade driver that fits the slot tightly. Use a hammer and tap the driver handle (down into the screw head) as you apply constant pressure on the screw to un-thread. Use rapid taps on the driver handle and do not turn the driver handle such as to jump the tip out of the screw slot. Usually works. |
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| Author: | Roy [ Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:54 pm ] |
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Easier yet, use a cordless dremel with one of those very thin cut off wheels, we've done that for years to cut a new slot in screw heads. |
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| Author: | MVD [ Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:08 pm ] |
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Thanks, Fellas, If I can't get one of your ideas to work I'll be buying some factory jib blocks from Matt's crew at HC. My crew says she'll jump ship if I can't get the jib blocks adjusted properly.
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| Author: | srm [ Wed Dec 17, 2008 8:22 am ] |
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Here's a couple additional ideas. - Get a good screwdriver with a tip that fits the screw slot properly. There are some really nice drivers out there and some real crap. Spend the bucks and get a good one with a nice grip that fits the head. - Get an impact driver. Assuming the block can stand the force, this would most likely get the screw out. Basically, its a driver that you hit the back end with a hammer while applying torque in the appropriate direction. The internal mechanism forces the driver to turn when hit with a hammer. Should be available at most auto stores. - Get angled wedges that fit under the cam and longer mounting screws for the cam. You can stack up multiple wedges to get a wide range of cam angles. Any place that sells Harken stuff would have these. - Continue to lubricate the screws heavily and continue trying with the screwdriver. - Last resort, cut off the screw heads and take the screws out using vice grips. Or take to a machine shop/mechanic and have them get the screws out. Any of these should be considerably cheaper than replacing an otherwise perfectly good set of blocks. sm |
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| Author: | MVD [ Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:18 pm ] |
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SRM, Thanks for the suggestion. I'll take a look at impact drivers. Once I finally do this I'll post some feedback on what ultimately worked. |
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| Author: | Karl Brogger [ Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:21 pm ] |
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Put some anti sieze on the threads when you reassemble it too. |
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| Author: | fastcat [ Thu Dec 18, 2008 9:56 am ] |
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If all else fails, you can drill out the old screws (first with a small pilot bit, then with a bit that is a little larger, but still about half the diameter of the screw shaft) and use an easy-out bit to get the screws out. If the easy-out still can't do it, then drill out the screw to size of the screw shaft and retap the hole. 
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