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Hobie 16 - Main Sheet line diameter -- 3/8 or 7/16??????
http://www.hobie.com/au/en/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8531
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Author:  BTODallas [ Sat Jan 05, 2008 10:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Hobie 16 - Main Sheet line diameter -- 3/8 or 7/16??????

I've seen a lot of folks using 3/8" line for their main sheet. The owner's manual calls for 7/16". --Does the 1/16" make any difference, or am I okay using 3/8" for my main sheet????? Thanks!!!!

Author:  sunjammers [ Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:54 am ]
Post subject: 

I personally like 5/16th, I sail w/ the 6:1 harken low profile blocks. I think 3/8th is the most common line size I sell in the shop for the main.

Author:  MBounds [ Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:39 am ]
Post subject: 

7/16" is too fat and won't run through the blocks well.

3/8" is ok and easy on the hands.

5/16" runs through the blocks very easily, but is a little harder on the hands.

It also depends on what kind of line you get. A polyester (Dacron) line with a fuzzy cover is kind of the standard recreational mainsheet. They last forever and are easy on the hands. It's not too expensive at $0.75/ft.

Most racers go with a higher-tech line, like New England Ropes Salsa brand. It's a Dyneema / Polyester blend that's very light, doesn't absorb water and is relatively easy on the hands. It's pricey, though - $1.24/ft.

There's a lot of line choices out there - you need to find one that suits your preferences and wallet.

BTW, the "standard" length for the mainsheet (44 ft.) is a little long. 40 ft. is plenty.

Author:  mmadge [ Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:55 am ]
Post subject: 

I agree 5/16 is the way to go.Even with 5/16 line unless it is really blowing I can get away with no gloves(mind you my hands are pretty caloust).I have even experimented with 1/4 line on light air days.The sheet just flies thru the blocks.Just a little tough to hold on to when wind picks up.
Ideally if it where allowed tapered line would be best.

Author:  swisscat [ Sun Jan 06, 2008 8:14 am ]
Post subject: 

I guess I have the standard mainsheet, which I didn't like.
Thanks for the information.

What diameter do you use for the main traveller?
My one is to thick and needs to be replaced for the coming season.

Another question: What does new shrouds, foresaty and trap wires cost in the U.S.?
Original Hobie parts are really expensive here.

Thanks
Nice Weekend
Chris

Author:  Skipshot [ Sun Jan 06, 2008 11:41 pm ]
Post subject: 

swisscat wrote:
Another question: What does new shrouds, foresaty and trap wires cost in the U.S.?

I'll teach you to fish and find the answer for yourself. From this web page click on the "Products" link at the top and select "Hobie Sailing" then "Parts & Accessories". On the next page select "Parts Guide / P. 42-63" in the drop down menu. On the page which opens find the part you are looking for and write down the part number(s). Go back to the "Parts & Accessories" page and from the drop down menu select "Part Number Listing" which will give you the prices for the parts.

If you use an internet browser which has a Tabbed Browsing (such as Firefox and Safari) feature then it's best to open two tabs of the Hobie web page so you don't have to click the Back and Forward buttons all the time. Or just print the parts guide and the price list.

Author:  swisscat [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:26 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Go back to the "Parts & Accessories" page and from the drop down menu select "Part Number Listing" which will give you the prices for the parts.


@Skipshot: Thanks.
But no prices listed: http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/price.pdf.

Chris

Author:  Skipshot [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 9:28 am ]
Post subject: 

Sorry about that, I owe it to you to answer your question.

Prices are from the 2007-2008 catalog:

H16 Shroud: $32.45 each
H16 Upper forestay (not Aussie style): $16.25
H16 Lower forestay (not Aussie style): $31.10
H16 Trapeze wires: $45.80 pair, includes handles
H16 Trapese wires: $55.15 pair, includes handles and shock cord

Author:  swisscat [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 11:36 am ]
Post subject: 

@Skipshot

Thanks for the Information. All parts together are about half the price than they would cost here :shock: .

If shrouds and all these parts are replaced, should all the metall parts (sorry, don't know the terms in english) also be replaced?

Nice evening
Chris

Author:  Skipshot [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 11:42 am ]
Post subject: 

The metal parts you mean are probably the stay adjusters, and unless they are damaged they do not need to be replaced.

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