Tandem Oasis Leg Length and Rudder Problems

Tandem Oasis Probems: My wife and I just purchaed a Tandem Oasis with twin turbos and found a couple of problems. Just wondered if others have same and know of a reasonalbe solution: I'm 6'2 and with the drive set to max position seven, the peddle arms bang the Kayak body badly -- just can't use the max position. This looks like a basic engineering design mistake. The other problem is that in light chop (about 1 ft. seas at 12-15 knots) the boat has no rudder authority. It's pretty good on a somooth lake or in cannal water but can't handle much chop combined with a slight cross-wind in the bay. Is the rudder on the Adventure Island interchangeable and adaquate or should I just epoxy a layer of Kevlar and glass around the little rudder? I'm concerned the cables will break under stress -- probably need to do the math.

Really didn't want to fix design problems with the boat immediately after I bought it, especially with the price Hobie is asking, but we really like the turbo drive. We both cycle as well and have been using it for long runs -- the only reason we purchased it.

Thanks,

Sun-dried (Texas coast)

G'Day and welcome Sun-dried!
The rudder problem is easily fixed by fitting the sailing rudder upgrade (which is what is on the AI).
It's a simple and cheap replacement and one of the must-do upgrades. Check there is no slack in the steering lines as well.
Your other problem is not so easily fixed. The Oasis cockpit is a bit short for the over 6 footers!
You can try using flatter or even no footwear, lay the seat further back and adjust your leg stroke accordingly. You don't want to hit the hull.
Roadrunner has posted some tips for this problem, one being replacing the newer seat with the thinner older style which is still available I think? Talk to your dealer.
A search of the forums should give you heaps of info!
Try this for starters:
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=12498

Like the previous comment, get a sailing rudder. Huge improvement, in fact, it should be standard equipment on the kayak.

I (also 6'2") have the same problem with the pedal hitting the kayak in my outback, even got a new one to solve the problem......still hits it. You're going to have to 1. Either put it in the next hole, or 2. Don't take full strokes, and perhaps 3. Cut the straps off. Either way, poor engineering.......................ck

_________________
Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Pedals hitting the hull is not an issue that I recall on the Oasis. It has appeared in a few models as the molds distort over time. This is where the outer side of the pedal nicks the last footwell? This is never and issue for anyone when in position 6 and is easily avoided in position 7 by not pedaling to the stops. This also could be the fins / masts hitting the underside of the hull at full to-the-stop stroke? This is simply a technique change and one required to stop the fins from slapping the hull bottom. Our president is 6' 3" and has a long inseam. His natural pedal stroke is not an issue in any model.

Steering will be effected to a greater degree if the heavier crew weight is forward. The larger "sailing" rudder is an easy bolt-on accessory.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thanks Gentlemen. Sailing Rudder Upgrade it is. Thanks for the other tips.

Our Oasis is brand new, just arrived. We have covered several miles already in a variety of conditions. In the aft seat, both peddle arms, when set to position 7, clearly strike mast mount hard before the stroke completes resulting in an incomplete stroke and in position 6, the right peddle arm strikes. In the forward seat, the peddle arm strikes the foot well on one side when set to position 7 well before stroke completion.

If the design intent was to be able to use position 7, It is clear the mold for Tandem Oasis needs to be retooled to allow clearance for peddle arms. I had assumed the designers compromised and only allowed for position 6 in the tandem model to keep the overall length and size within design/weight and material cost constraints. This makes me wonder if Hobie would be willing to wholesale the drive to another hull designer?

Personally, position 6 is tiresome for me. It put puts more strain on my back, mostly because the straps for lumbar back are too low for proper support. I would like to sit more upright to relieve the strain but when near upright in position 6, my quads contact my rib cage on the upstroke, even while barefoot. Consequently, I need to lean back a bit more. The standard Hobie back-rest is, from my perspective, designed for medium sized women and children. To balance the strain for a tall man, the strap needs to meet near L1 vertebrae at the transpyloric plane just below the 9th rib. It is near L4-L5 for me, far too low and I find myself wanting hand holds.for back support.

Never-the-less, the peddle drive is fantastic and despite the hull shortcomings for tall customers and resulting disappointing value, we were aware of the problems prior to purchase.

Again, thanks for your response.

Sun-dried (on the Texas coast)

I would suggest leaving it in the 7 hole and learn the adjustment of when to stop your stroke. The next hole, like you, is also too short for me, but unless trying to make serious speed (not often as I fish) I can stop just short of hitting the kayak, but still do it some nonetheless. My right foot is my problem as the the buckle on the strap is the culprit. A simple redesign of the strap set-up would solve a lot of the problem. One day, I might try to repair Hobie's problem as it has become evident that they are more interested in getting around the problem rather than fixing it.........................and you're right, the mirage drive is a good & different system for propulsion, Hobie's uniqueness at present, and the only reason I bought Hobie rather than a competitor.

_________________
Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

That explains it... its hitting the mast receiver. This became an issue for a variety of reasons. First was the addition of the receiver itself. The original Oasis used the forward seat scupper as a mast receiver. This was certainly not as good as the location now that allows two passengers while sailing. Second was the redesigns in the drive itself which tightened up the drive and made it more narrow at the pedals.

As for:



We constantly improve the products. Things are not simple and sometimes require time to correct. I am given the impression that for the 2010 model year... all of the possible pedal hitting issues are being corrected.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

The Mirage Drive comes in one size that fits all boats, but the different boats have different cockpit dimensions. The Adventure, for example, has a slightly longer cockpit than all but the Pro Angler (which can fit a giant with room to spare). The Oasis gives up a little additional space for the mast accommodation.

I agree, as people seem to be getting larger the cockpits should be enlarged to accommodate the taller users. One of my kids is 6'7" with a 36" inseam and he looks like a stuffed sardine in the Oasis (no idea where he got got his size).

Sun-dried, you can gain some additional leg space (about 1/2") and additional back support (higher strap attachments) with the older (pre-'07) seat back, still available through Hobie. I think it makes a big difference and use this style exclusively.

RR,

So, you're suggesting to take the pedal off, and then cut off the overhanging tube, 1/2" or so, so that it is flush (perhaps a smidgen short of that) with the side of the pedal. And then put these two new washers under/over the locking nut to take up the lost 1/2"? Is that correct?

_________________
Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

How about a fix for the mistakes already in service since a new hull didn't solve the problem? Gonna send me a 2010 model to fix it?

Don't see a note notifying the prospective buyer of the possible problem on your website.

I'm not impressed............................ck

_________________
Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Not at all. I must have done a worse job of explaining it than I thought. Rather than risk confusing anyone else, I deleted the info.

Best of luck with your problems.

Because the preferred and recommended pedaling technique does not use the full to-the-stops stoke... users should not experience this contact. Simply adjust the pedal stroke a bit shorter and there is no issue. Its not just the pedals hitting the extreme ends of the stroke, it is the drive's fins / masts contacting the hull bottom once you get the full stroke which should be avoided for a smoother and quieter ride.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

No, it is not. It is the pedals hitting the side of the kayak. I know the difference in the fins hitting the bottom of the keel and SEEING AND HEARING THE PEDAL SCRAPING THE SIDE OF THE KAYAK...........................

Please link me the spot in your website where it describes the preferred and recommended disclaimer on the way to pedal or side scrapping may occur........

_________________
Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

Of course... there is no such "disclaimer". I am happy to try once again to find a hull that meets your needs.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Thanks for the effort, guess I missed something in your explanation. I did pop the cap off, but did not take it off the shaft. Perhaps, in a week or so, I'll take it off and see if a light goes off.....................



Breed an outback with a revolution and take the best of both. Lengthen the outback to eliminate the side slap, deepen the well behind the seat on the revolution, average the width of the two, keep the foot room from the revo, eliminating the scraping problem, rig the revo for fishing like the OB, put sail rudder on it, and give the buyer the choice of fins. Design a way to get inside the hull behind the seat for access to add nuts and bolts through the hull. Put a bigger well in front of the seat to access the inner hull for reachable storage while seated, which is strong enough for standing. Get rid of the mesh pockets with a different type of material, fish hooks get hooked in them and it is a pain to get them out, especially trebles. Design some type of metal or other very hard material (ie. a very thin and light sheet metal) to cover the front keel for a few feet to prevent ruining the bottom when landing, oyster shells are rough on this material, as most launch sites are not clean beach sand..........oh, while you're at it, put some easy use outriggers on it like the Freedom Hawk kayak.

Other than that, let me know.

_________________
Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.