Pedal Crank Failure

Last spring I purchased a new v2 mirage drive to use with my 2008 Adventure.

I've had two left pedal assembly failures and today the right pedal assembly failed. Near the top of the pedal crank the pedal brakes the crank in a twisting forward type of failure. The pedals are set so I rarely go clear to the very end of the cycle.

I have two old drives (they came with my mirage tandem) and it seems like the pedal shafts are solid vs hollow. It seems like this would be much stronger.

Any suggestions would be helpful. Either I need to find some older crank assembly's and put them on the v2 drive or find a way to make the cranks hold up better.

Today I paddled over about five miles. Glad I was in my Adventure and not the Outback.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks

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That is unusual to fail so many. I suspect ST Turbo fins? Sounds like a lot of distance pedaling as well. The solid shafts are certainly stronger.

We still have them:

81100001 Left
81105001 Right

$27.95 each. These are just the shafts, threaded as bicycle style left and right threads. You need to find an appropriate set of pedals. Ther has been some discussion of this idea in the forums.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

Sometimes when fishing there is a tendency to rest both feet on the pedals. In the excitement of the moment (like when setting a hook), pushing forward on both pedals simultaneously where the pedals cannot yield, a strong guy might crack a crank. One wouldn't necessarily know it at the time. Does this sound like a possibility?

nekp If you are feeling industrious you might check this out:

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=13835&p=76843&hilit=pedal+aluminum#p76843

All are helpful and great ideas. I'm not a fisherman but understand the post about not putting full weight on both pedals.

I've wondered about getting some raw stock and making or having my own cranks made. Thanks for the post and the pictures.

For now I've ordered old cranks. Now to find or make some pedals.

Thanks again.

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Nekp

I've used these pedals on my older drives - they work great and don't have a front & back side like the Hobie pedals do - which means you don't have to flip pedals over.

http://www.bikeworldusa.us/Sunlite-PEDALS-CRUISER-BAREFOOT-12-BLK/M/B0015SDEKE.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle



Popular on Beach cruiser type bikes

Hmm.. thread has me wondering. Will the older solid crank arms fit the V2 drums? I was under the impression you had to grind a little at the end off the solid arms, on the corners to make them fit. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

My old solid crank arms on 2 drives get heavy turbo fin use often and are bullet proof.
The added weight is a small penalty to pay vs. the hollow crank arms.

On the left, here's a pic looking at the base of an early hollow extrusion crank arm next to the original solid version. On the right is a newer strengthened, beveled version. It appears that the distance between the mounting hole and the end may be longer for more strength at the base, accounting for the bevel.


If so, the old billet style would probably fit in without modification. If not, a file will make it fit!

Ya, thanks Roadrunner. I think it was you that posted the differences once before, I knew they were slight/minor ones in the fitting.

I hope Hobie continues to offer the solid type crank arms that take the bike pedals. I love being able to use the cheap replaceable bike pedals and the solid cranks keep us turbo power user freaks out of trouble.

Holding off on upgrading my older drives to V2 drums. Waiting to get the tandem Island which will come with 2 new drives, hopefully at "an introductory price" soon.

Here is a thread that may be of interest, about making cranks.
http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=13835