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 Post subject: Trailex trailer question
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:10 am 
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I am looking at getting a Trailex SUT-250-M-2 trailer to transport an '09 Outback and Revolution. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts about this and could answer a couple of questions.

Last Summer we transported the Hobies on roof rails on a Chevy Equinox, and it started to get a bit tedious loading the kayaks for short day trips. My thought on getting the trailer is that it would be easier to load and I could keep the kayaks on the trailer covered with a tarp ready to go on short notice. For Winter storage I'd still put them on a set of Suspenz racks. Here's my questions:

-My thought is I'd be better off not getting the saddles and simply load the kayaks upside down on the rails and possibly pad the rails with strips of indoor/outdoor carpet. My understanding is I shouldn't be storing the kayaks on saddles for any extended period of time because of hull deformation.

-Any ideas on the positioning of the rails? The trailer in the Hobie catalog indicates 67" but I am not sure how far forward or back these should be. I am concerned about clearance during turns, and not sure of the optimal positioning of the rails for the strongest points on the top of the kayaks.

Any input would be appreciated.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:35 am 
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Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
We use these trailers all the time, we just flip the yaks upside down, tie em off and head for the water. extended storage shouldn't be a problem with the yaks upside down on rails. I have no clue the exact measurement of the cross members on our whop trailer, just make sure the front bar isn't resting on the hatch of the revolution and you should be all good.

This is one of our top selling trailers, you'll have no problems with it!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:15 am 
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I also use the Trailex and it's been much easier on me. I started using it with two outbacks and upside down on the "meat" of the gunwale, aft of the forward hatch and just forward of the front hatch. Being adjustable it's not an issue. I now carry the Pro Angler and the Outback so had to change the rail length some but was still able to accommodate the Outback with no problems. You'll love the ease of getting them to the water.
I have the larger of the two trailers just in case I wanted to add a box on the trailer itself.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:44 am 
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Thanks for the feedback.

Any tips on tying them off? Since there are no bow/stern ties like on a roof rack I am concerned about stability in the forward/backward direction.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:52 am 
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Well, if you notice the shape of the hull, when getting the yak tied down the straps will follow the contour of the hull. Forward strap will slide forward and aft strap will slide aft. Go back and forth snugging things up and just the hull shape alone will keep the kayak from moving anywhere. For longer trips I use a strap from the "hard handle" both fore and aft to stop movement. Clear as mud?? Someone else will chime in I'm sure and you'll get a couple of ideas.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:08 am 
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Got it, it makes sense. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:39 am 
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I use a Trailex trailer for my Adventure for short trips and put it back on the roof for long trips. If you get it unassembled you can set it up easily to adjust to hold your kayak. It's easy to adjust and add extra support. I used two lightweight roolers for additional support. The tiedown holes are precut in the cross supports. This gives you two midship and one in the bow. I haul and keep the kayak upright and on the trailer all the time, with no problem. I really like the trailer.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 8:00 am 
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Yes, I ordered it as a kit and will need to assemble it. I think the biggest challenge is to figure out the crossbar placement to make sure there is enough clearance during turns. I was thinking I'd assemble it then hook it to the car at an angle like it was in a turn and test fit the kayaks..


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:18 am 
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It's very user friendly to put together. Put it all together and leave all the bolts loose. Hook it up to the vehicle and get the position of the kayaks. Tighten the axle base when you get the right tongue weight. Then it's easy to fine tune the supports.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:21 am 
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Ranger908 wrote:
I use a Trailex trailer for my Adventure for short trips and put it back on the roof for long trips. If you get it unassembled you can set it up easily to adjust to hold your kayak. It's easy to adjust and add extra support. I used two lightweight roolers for additional support. The tiedown holes are precut in the cross supports. This gives you two midship and one in the bow. I haul and keep the kayak upright and on the trailer all the time, with no problem. I really like the trailer.



Just out of curiosity what are "roolers"? Do you have to buy them seperate are do they come with the kit? Thanks for the help.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 11:37 am 
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Sorry rollers. :oops: :oops: Don't know what your rig will come with since its side by side. Mine had brackets for the hull. You may have just a bar. Give me a little while and I will post some pictures. It will take me a couple of hours.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:05 pm 
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I looked at the website and your setup will be very different from mine. If it was me I would completely redo there setup and move the brackets down to the frame from more stability, go with three cross members, then make some better supports for the kayaks to spread out the pressure from one bar. I would not store my kayak on those bars for very long. I like keeping the kayak upright so I can transport it without unpacking everything. If you put them upside down the bars might be OK for support. My pictures might not help.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 2:24 pm 
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I'm going to be transporting them upside down on the crossbars, much like the roof rack I have been using.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:06 pm 
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To prevent any fore/aft movement:

Instead of putting the strap straight over the kayak, drop it through the drivewell and loop it around the crossbar. Then bring it back through the well and over the top of the kayak to the other side. This will keep it from sliding off your roof. Hope this makes sense. Sorry, no photos to illustrate.

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