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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 2:18 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 4:09 pm
Posts: 2
This is my first post on this forum and I apologize if this has been addressed elsewhere but I couldn't find a thread.

My front steering crank is seized and I am having difficulty removing the shaft. I have used anti-seize spray but it is very stiff and I'm afraid to damage the hexagonal bearing glued into the body.

Has anyone had a similar issue and you recommend how to remove the shaft or loosen it other than using solvent/lubricant.

Also, would there be a problem if I bypassed the front steering crank and only used the rear crank (by disconnecting the front crank control line)?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 4:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
You tried "Break Free"? Possibly a hammer to lightly tap the rod downwards to free it up?

You might be able to unhook the system at the front handle to bypass.

mmiller wrote:
To keep the lines off the deck... to offer dual steering capability... The internal system is actually about as simple as it can be. It is a continuous loop.

Steering Diagram:

Image

Up/Down:

Image

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 4:09 pm
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Thanks for the quick reply. Light tapping made no headway and I resorted to heavier hitting and I've got the rod down past the holes but it is still very stubborn. I didn't want to cause damage to the hull and wasn't optimistic about getting it out once it was flush with the hexagonal bearing.

I did unhook the system at the front handle and tied the loops together so the rear handle controls the rudder well. I now have an operable kayak and all is well.

My question is whether to leave the front handle steering crank alone because I am scared I will damage the hexagonal bearing or the kayak hull if I am too heavy with the tapping. I see I can purchase a spare steering crank but I don't see the bearing itself available as a spare. Can I purchase the bearing too?

My last question is how best to protect the rear crank from seizing up? I have been using Boeshield T-9 for my bikes and tools down here at the beach. I am assuming I should perform regular maintenance by removing it every couple of months and using grease or oil to lubricate.

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:52 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
Should be OK with a single application of lubricant. You can give it another squirt every year or so.

The other is already non functional, so hitting harder might get it out. Then clean and lube, but front steering is not really necessary.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 9:29 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2018 9:23 am
Posts: 2
Hi guys,
we have two Hobie Tandem Oasis' aboard the yacht I run, and I have experienced the EXACT same problem on both kayaks. I initially thought I would hammer the steering crank out, clean it up and get operation back. However, just like Hendy found, I hammered the crank down until it was flush and it won't budge. Of course, liquid wrench has been applied, and the hammers have grown increasingly larger, but before going any further, I just wanted to see if anyone could pipe in here. Wondering if there was any resolve for Hendy?

Thanks,
Andrew


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2024 11:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 19, 2024 4:43 pm
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I have the same problem, and I’m stuck just like my steering crank. Can anyone recommend the best solution? Is the best approach to drill out the steering crank axel as eblocker did? Or is it best to hammer the nut through the hull and then somehow resecure it? Thank you for your advice.


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