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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 10:59 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2014 10:15 am
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"Longtime listener, first-time caller". Hi, I'm new to the forum but have been kayak fishing since 2010.

I have a 2010 Revo 13. It has the old-style steering handle with set-screw but internally it appears to use the new-style shaped steering crank (sort of looks like an upside-down stainless steel wishbone). See Page 46 (or 47?) of the Hobie Parts & Accessories Catalog.

Here's the problem - the 2010 model year steering appeared to be a "work in progress", evolving from the old style steering crank with set-screw handle to the new style steering crank with the new-style handle. As a result, the 2010 model year steering crank is the new wishbone shape but it didnt have a pin to secure the handle; it still used the old-style set-screw. That means the 2010 steering crank had a hollow for the set screw to go into, not a hole for a pin to go thru. In short, the 2010 model year steering sytem seems to be a hybrid mixture of pre-2010 features and post-2010 design features - none of it good.


Here's the result of the problem:
I use my kayak a lot - I probably fish from it 75-100 days a year, year-round. And I prefer to go after Sheepshead around pilings so that means I'm doing a tremendous amount of steering. A couple months ago, the steering handle got really sloppy. Examination showed that there was a lot of slop with the set screw and the steering crank hollow it goes into. Tightening the setscrew only made things worse - the setscrew insert backed out of the plastic altogether. I devised a temporary repair but want a permanent fix for this bad design.


Here's my question
- can I buy the steering crank, screw, pin, new-style handle and knob to upgrade my steering system from the 2010 model year to the steering system currently in the model years 2011 and newer? If so, where do I go to buy all of these parts?

Catch


Last edited by Catch-All on Tue Aug 19, 2014 9:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
Catch, welcome to the forum. All parts are ordered through a dealer; if you don't have one locally, you might try one that sells on line.

The Hobie website has an online kayak parts catalog so you can look up the parts you'll need. Whether they will fit in your boat or not I'm not certain -- it's not a common change. Someone else may have more information on that. The new system may have a different geometry (different cranks for different boats). In any event, the rudder handles now are held down with a top mounted screw. If you convert, be sure to Loctite it in place or the screw will back out just like your old version. All screws eventually work their way loose on Hobies unless Loctited or through bolted with Nyloc nuts (or lock washers).

I think you can correct your existing set-up in one of two ways. 1) If the control handle is stable with the Allenhead screw in, you can Loctite it in so the screw doesn't back out (always use Loctite Blue). 2. You can drill your own hole through the rudder post and rudder control and through bolt the handle. If the system is binding anywhere, use some silicone spray on all parts to free it up. 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 9:05 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2014 10:15 am
Posts: 2
Roadrunner wrote:
2. You can drill your own hole through the rudder post and rudder control and through bolt the handle. If the system is binding anywhere, use some silicone spray on all parts to free it up.


Thanks, RR. #2 is the temporary fix that I came up with on my own. To say the least, it ain't workin'. It has only slightly less slop in it than the 2010 model year factory setup had.

I bought my kayak from Massey's of Covington. They've always been helpful in the past. I reckon I'll have to stop back by and order all these parts - five total if I want to upgrade to the new-style handle with optional knob. Their tech should be able to answer my question about 2011 parts going into a 2010 hull.

Another thing I noticed about the steering system is that the tiller lines are starting to get frayed at both ends. I have a solution for that better than the factory parts - I do a lot of offshore deepdropping for bottomfish (electric reel fishing in waters approx 700-1000 foot) and I spooled my 50lb class reels with all braided. The braided Spectra that's OEM appears to be 130lb test. I can replace it with 300lb bulk line on my own and worry a lot less about fraying. Just sayin'....

Catch


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