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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 6:35 am 
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Joined: Wed May 31, 2017 7:04 pm
Posts: 48
I adapted my Water Snake to fit the plug that clips inside Mirage Drive hole, but I didn't like this setup so yesterday I disassembled and made a side motormount and will test using it a little behind seat....The reason I didn't like Water Snake in Mirage drive is:

1. The 24 thrust in windy weather struggles with a loaded Pro Angler 12 due to weight.
2. I fish a lot of shallow and/or weedy water so I found myself needing to take the unit out a lot, this is not easy, to take unit out of the Mirage drive you need to make sure prop is lined up correctly, it is cumbersome trying to stick hand under Mirage Plug to do this.
3. Since Water Snake has only 2 speeds I find it best getting to spots and back, but for slowly working areas I prefer the fins, with fins it is also easier to control speed and you can flutter in really shallow area or heavy weeds up to a point. If you get into heavy weeds or shallow water you need to lift water snake from mirage hole to paddle out. Again, in my areas this happens way to much.

I think for this in shallow and or really weedy areas the Watersnake AND Mirage Drive fins are perfectly complimented together.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 9:16 am
Posts: 75
I understand your point regarding the prop has to be perfectly vertical to come up through the mirage drive. A local kayak shop solved this by using a paint stick, the flat stir sticks you get for free at Home Depot. I cut a "V" notch in the bottom. I just push the stir stick thought the bottom of the kayak and the notch catches the prop bad and pushes it into the vertical position perfectly every time.

Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2023 11:35 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2020 1:07 pm
Posts: 1
Used many of the steps mentioned here . What I took away from the many posts and videos on the watersnake conversion.
1: use a pipe cutter to cut the shaft to size. No chance of nicking the wires.
2: 3M 5200 to a fix the shaft to the cartridge. Remains flexible but grips.
3: Add a large fender washer on either side of the cartridge and 3M 5200 to shaft /cartridge to spread the force of the motor over more area
4: A pulse wave modulator is key to getting longer run times then just a two speed control
5: the head unit has so many not water tight holes . I used auto gasket sealer to close these up but silicone caulking would work
6: there needs to be a inline fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery connection to protect the unit
7: it is a ez mod to put the speed modulator inside the head unit( I modded the tiller stick to hold and protect the control nob for the modulator, see pics) well I will post pictures if can sort out how on this forum along with a link to the 30 amp pulse wave modulator I used.


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