2018 Hobie misc operating questions

Got a 2018 Revolution 13 which is terrific, but have 4 minor operating questions:

Q1: What bad stuff happens if one mirage drive crank set to #4 and other to #5?
Note: Hobie manual says “ensure both cranks are in the same position number.” I was playing around and found flutter strokes with same foot forward easier using different numbers, and I flutter way more than full stroke.

Q2. Is it bad to put pressure on the seat bar to point of making it click?
Note: Lifting boat on/off roof racks, sometimes my head/shoulder inadvertently pressures seat bar which then “clicks” (same as adjusting seat up/down when in boat).

Q3: Are scupper holes or pad-eyes (the bungee cord fasteners) acceptable for a “last resort” safety rope for roof rack transport? If not what else is better?
Note: using roof rack with cross bars & upright bars, I rely 99.9% on straps across the upside down hull, but sometimes put safety ropes (not very tight) on just in case without using front of car. I used small ropes from my roof rack cross bar to kayak pad-eyes. Then saw Hobie manual says “scupper holes to tie the boat to the car is an acceptable method”.

Q4. How loose should the handle be on the hatch?
Note: hatches open/close just fine but the middle hatch handle is rather loose compared to rear one; noticed it when I turn boat upside down on roof racks, the middle handle drops down a bit which has me concerned if it will flop around and be stressed when driving 80mph. When on the water, don’t notice anything since boat is not upside down.

P.S. this replaced my 2007 revolution which was the best purchase I ever made and completely revolutionized the way I fish. Buying a new Hobie was an easy decision but choosing a color was agonizing. I settled for “ivory dune” which is easy on the eyes and plenty visible for safety in the rather boat-free shallow waters I frequent. Seat and 180 drive are well worth it. Only negative: 2018 is a bit harder to lift onto roof rack, partly cause I keep bumping that seat bar with my head/shoulder (and partly I was very used to and adept at lifting the old molded handles).

Got a 2018 Revolution 13 which is terrific, but have 4 minor operating questions:

Q1: What bad stuff happens if one mirage drive crank set to #4 and other to #5?
Note: Hobie manual says “ensure both cranks are in the same position number.” I was playing around and found flutter strokes with same foot forward easier using different numbers, and I flutter way more than full stroke.

When pedaling using a full stroke with one crank set further forward than the other, you'd more than likely be hitting one fin against the bottom of the hull with each full stroke. This could damage the drive components or the hull over time and is not recommended. If you prefer to flutter stroke with the cranks set differently, just be sure to set them back to equal once you hit deeper water.

Q2. Is it bad to put pressure on the seat bar to point of making it click?
Note: Lifting boat on/off roof racks, sometimes my head/shoulder inadvertently pressures seat bar which then “clicks” (same as adjusting seat up/down when in boat).

This shouldn't be an issue...perhaps it's between two height setting and what you hear is it clicking into the next setting. Also, if you twist the seat bar this will allow it to adjust up and down.

Q3: Are scupper holes or pad-eyes (the bungee cord fasteners) acceptable for a “last resort” safety rope for roof rack transport? If not what else is better?
Note: using roof rack with cross bars & upright bars, I rely 99.9% on straps across the upside down hull, but sometimes put safety ropes (not very tight) on just in case without using front of car. I used small ropes from my roof rack cross bar to kayak pad-eyes. Then saw Hobie manual says “scupper holes to tie the boat to the car is an acceptable method”.

The stainless pad eyes at the bow and stern are fine to attach the bow and stern lines to during transport so long as you don't over tighten the straps - this can cause distortions in the kayak's rocker and hull shape especially in hot conditions. Tying down to the rack through the scuppers is okay for transport, but not advised for extended storage. If the kayak is on your roof rack overnight, loosen straps (and don't forget to tighten back down before you hit the road!).

Q4. How loose should the handle be on the hatch?
Note: hatches open/close just fine but the middle hatch handle is rather loose compared to rear one; noticed it when I turn boat upside down on roof racks, the middle handle drops down a bit which has me concerned if it will flop around and be stressed when driving 80mph. When on the water, don’t notice anything since boat is not upside down.

If you want to stiffen up the hinge on the T-Handle of the center hatch, you can give the handle a half turn to access the roll pin holding the T-handle to the ball at the bottom of the handle. Insert a tapered punch and give it a tap with a hammer to open up the roll pin. That should solve it. Otherwise, this shouldn't be a big issue.

P.S. this replaced my 2007 revolution which was the best purchase I ever made and completely revolutionized the way I fish. Buying a new Hobie was an easy decision but choosing a color was agonizing. I settled for “ivory dune” which is easy on the eyes and plenty visible for safety in the rather boat-free shallow waters I frequent. Seat and 180 drive are well worth it. Only negative: 2018 is a bit harder to lift onto roof rack, partly cause I keep bumping that seat bar with my head/shoulder (and partly I was very used to and adept at lifting the old molded handles).

_________________
Howie Strech
Parts & Accessories Product Manager
Hobie Cat USA

Congratulations on your new purchase! I would add a couple of points to HStrech's reply.
It doesn't hurt at all to use different pin positions as long as you're not slamming the hull with the fins. Using different holes just cuts the range of motion down. For fluttering, I like the #4 and #7 position which keeps the legs almost equal while the fins are operating up near the boat.
Another way to secure your boat is to run two loops through the drivewell, one to and from each side. They don't have to be tight since there is no way the boat can fall off the rack (snug is good). The scuppers are good as well. The black plastic padeyes are not strong enough for high stress and can pop out, as opposed to the fore and aft stainless padeyes which are screwed in to pre-molded brass anchors.