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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 9:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 02, 2017 1:58 pm
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Location: Merritt Island, FL
I just copied HStrech's response to LilRiverman's thread "When is Hobie going to get a fix lack of turbo fins on 180", but wanted to start this new thread about the lack of improvements on the 180 drive I have experienced.

HStrech wrote:
Our Parts and Accessories department received stock (as of this week) on the V1 to V2 Turbo Fin Upgrade kits. You can place an order through your dealer and they'll get to you. Part number 81501112 includes everything you need to convert from V1 to V2 and upgrade to turbos, for the same price as the straight turbo fin kit:

2 x V2 MD 180 turbo fins
2 x V2 MD 180 turbo fin masts
2 x V2 MD 180 booms
2 x Clevis pins
2 x Split rings
2 x Adjuster screw
1 x Detailed V1 to V2 instructions

Additionally, if you've got the V1 shifter tendons, we're offering an upgrade to V2 shifter tendons at no charge - so long as you have your dealer file a claim.


Last October I took possession of my Outback with 180 drive and have had shifter tendons break 3 times now (2 reverse, 1 forward). My dealer has been warrantying the tendons for me without trouble, except there has not been an updated version of the shifter tendons-still the same old plastic threads, exactly the same design. My Outback has standard 180 fins, the PA14 has the turbo finned 180.
I fish almost daily, so every time the shifter breaks it's another trip back to the dealer 1/2 hour away and another lost day on the water.

Meanwhile I purchased a 2017 camo PA14 a few weeks ago (with turbo fins) and it also has the same weak plastic shifter tendons. I was confident in Hobie making the improvements and I'd sure love to see the newly updated version instead of the same old issue.

My dealer showed me a "new & improved" drive last Sunday when I went back to address the same problem, and guess what?

Same old plastic threads on the shifter tendons. Zero zilch nada improvement or changes implemented on the shifter tendons. Is someone holding out on me?
I keep reading about improved tendons and my dealer showed me a brand spanking new slate colored (props for the new nice color, easy on the eyes) with the new and improved 180 drive, but there has not been anything notable to address the tendon breakage.

Per my dealer, the only changes on the new drive appear to be:

a) the release for adjusting the pedal "arms", which now have a button on top of each arm instead of the grey u-channel type release. Looks like it would make it easier to adjust the position of the pedals, which is certainly a bonus but once I've found the proper setting for myself, I don't have to change this position anyway-it might come in handy on the rare occasion that I change my seat position, but that's about it.

b) The only other apparent change is the tension adjustment screw & nut in the top of the fins, which has now been eliminated.

c) the shifter tendons-oh wait, strike that, they're still the same.

I shift cautiously and with pedals in the fully upright position and especially after the first time a tendon snapped off, have been very careful and shift very deliberately to try and avoid the tendons breaking-without luck for myself or a couple of my fishing buddies, who have also had tendons snap off.

After brainstorming and looking very closely at the old shifter tendons, we realized that aside from the obvious weak design of tiny diameter plastic threads into the plastic bracket/arm, the position of the tendons at full engagement (once you've pulled either the forward or the reverse tendon all the way back to flip the fins) is actually curved, meaning it's creating a bend and stress point exactly at the critical weak spot where the threads insert into the bracket.

Now, I'm no engineer and the breakage of shifter tendons doesn't seem like much to the occasional user, yet I would like to hope Hobie engineers have been paying attention to design flaws (judging by the same leaky round hatches and that particular engineer replying that the round hatches are designed perfectly and don't leak :rolleyes), but combined with the small diameter of the tendon threads, it's fairly obvious and easy to see how the breaking point is unavoidable no matter how carefully you shift. The bend becomes more pronounced when having the seat in the high position.

What's up? Am I missing something here? Please tell me I did, because this is getting frustrating.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 9:59 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 12054
Location: Oceanside, California
Quote:
Same old plastic threads on the shifter tendons. Zero zilch nada improvement or changes implemented on the shifter tendons. Is someone holding out on me?


Changed to 5/16" threads. This was a major change in strength last winter. There are no known failures since that change.

The shifters are a no charge upgrade since last spring:

81486021 SHIFTER SET LEFT/FORWARD "V2"
81491021 SHIFTER SET RIGHT/REVERSE "V2

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Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:21 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Jun 02, 2017 1:58 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Merritt Island, FL
mmiller wrote:
Quote:
Same old plastic threads on the shifter tendons. Zero zilch nada improvement or changes implemented on the shifter tendons. Is someone holding out on me?


Changed to 5/16" threads. This was a major change in strength last winter. There are no known failures since that change.

The shifters are a no charge upgrade since last spring:

81486021 SHIFTER SET LEFT/FORWARD "V2"
81491021 SHIFTER SET RIGHT/REVERSE "V2


Thanks Matt, I'll check with my dealer and ask if the replacement tendons they've installed are different threads from the originals.

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