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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 2:45 pm 
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I have a Revo 13 and it says the Capacity is 350 pounds. Then it says the fitted hull weight is 70.5 pounds and the Fully rigged weight is 88 pounds. Is the 350 pound capacity above the Fully rigged weight of 88 pounds or the fitted hull weight of 70.5 pounds?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 3:15 pm 
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350 over the fully fitted weight. It is the carrying capacity which does not include the boat or standard equipment.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:17 pm 
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So 350 pounds NOT including the oar, mirage drive, kayak, and seat?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:19 pm 
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Correct... you and your gear in the Kayak.

Fully fitted Kayak with MirageDrive, Paddle and Seat is 88 lbs. The fully fitted kayak is expected to carry 350 lbs of crew and gear.

A fully fitted and fully loaded (you and your gear) kayak might be 438 lbs total.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:36 pm 
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Great. One more weight related question. If I have 80 pounds of equipment and all of it was going to be either in the front hatch or behind me what ratio would you suggest? I have a revo 13. Would you suggest 40 pounds on each end or some other ratio?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 6:24 pm 
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Split it, maybe with a small bias forward would be good, but the exact amounts aren't critical. In the end, you want the boat to sit essentially level for best stability and performance. Weight up front also sits lower to further enhance stability! 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 6:52 pm 
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Thank you that helps.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 9:52 am 
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+1

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 9:07 pm 
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Weight distribution will affect handling. Up front keeps the nose down, resulting in longer effective waterline> faster smoother glide. In the rear it lowers the back (effectively using the hull like a "skeg" as it provides more lateral resistance) which helps combat weather cocking as well as nose burying in following seas.

I was watching a mate in his revo 13 with gear in the back, which is typical, for fishos, it was interesting to see how much the front was rising out of the water in even mild choppy conditions. This meant for much of the time the effective waterline was probably only 11 foot or so, as well as causing it to use up a lot energy bobbing up and down slapping the waves..

reclining the seat back and forth can have a similar affect with your own COG

All this feels obvious when you paddle a kayak, but it is less obvious when pedalling but the same forces are at play.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 12:10 am 
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Thanks for detailed explanation. I have decided to have two coolers to contain the ice and fish i catch. One will be inside the bow and the other will be behind me on the stern. My only concern is the nose burying you mentioned.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:00 am 
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One thing to be aware of -- keep your front hatch closed and fastened when not in use. In the unlikely event of capsize an open front hatch would flood the boat quickly. This has happened before. Most experienced kayak fishermen also keep all their equipment tethered, just in case. It's like wearing a seatbelt -- one never expects a problem, but it happens. 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 10:41 am 
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Thanks again!


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