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Stress Repair How-To http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=62945 |
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Author: | Dr.SteelheadCatcher [ Mon Jun 11, 2018 6:03 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Thanks Roadrunner.......your work is one of the major pluses that makes this site so informative and good for all Hobie owners. |
Author: | WAVERIDER [ Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:03 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Would you suggest doing this as a preventative measure regardless of whether there is any sign of cracking or not? |
Author: | Jim_MI [ Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:06 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Thanks again. You are an amazing resource for repair issues! |
Author: | Roadrunner [ Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:16 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
WAVERIDER wrote: Would you suggest doing this as a preventative measure regardless of whether there is any sign of cracking or not? If you are using Turbofins, then this is a worthwhile insurance policy IMO. If you use STs or standard fins and your columns look good, then there is probably no need.
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Author: | Roadrunner [ Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:56 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Doc and Jim, your comments are appreciated. Thanks to Hobie for supporting a platform for us to share ideas and tips! |
Author: | niswanger [ Mon Jul 16, 2018 6:44 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Roadrunner, thanks for pointing me in this direction on my other thread about joining the world of Kayaking. Unforuntantly I do have cracked cam columns as shown in the images below. So here I go again on a few questions. When making the 3/4" PVC clamshell. I know schedule 40, but not familiar with 150 class? I also know there's the grey electrical type. Any latest recommendations? I would think I would want the best material that the loctite 3035 adheres to. Seems to me you want to try to cut/carve/shape etc the clamshell to mate with the upper and lower portion of the cam column as tight and uniform as possible correct? Kind of like wood joints, you want them nice and tight but not over tight. Do I need to unscrew the cam column bolt for the MD or do anything at all to it or just leave it be? This repair won't hinder the future replacement of any cam column hardware correct? Should I clean and prep the surround surfaces first? Lightly scuff/clean with Isopropyl alcohol? |
Author: | Roadrunner [ Mon Jul 16, 2018 11:21 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
niswanger wrote: So here I go again on a few questions. When making the 3/4" PVC clamshell. I know schedule 40, but not familiar with 150 class? I also know there's the grey electrical type. Any latest recommendations? I would think I would want the best material that the loctite 3035 adheres to. PVC is not for strength, but just to support the adhesive as it forms around the cam columns, keep things tidy and speed the process (very short working time for this product). Loctite 3035 is formulated for PE and that's what we care about. Coincidentally, it also bonds well to other things like PVC. Pick any size that fits around the cam columns efficiently. PVC goes by OD. Here's a quick tutorial: https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/pvc ... -vs-class/ The smaller the "class" #, the larger the ID = more space to fit around the cam columns (this does not include shed 40 and 80). Thus, Class 160 has more interior space than Class 315 or sked. 40, for instance, so you can probably get away with 3/4" rather 1". This just gives you a dimension to play with besides OD (which we don't really care about). You may be limited by whatever they carry at your hardware store. You don't want to have to buy a 20' piece for only about 4" of material! No sanding, just clean and dry. Alcohol is a good cleaner. Seems to me you want to try to cut/carve/shape etc the clamshell to mate with the upper and lower portion of the cam column as tight and uniform as possible correct? Kind of like wood joints, you want them nice and tight but not over tight. Don't worry about the fit. The 3035 will fill in all the gaps. If you can realign the port column, good but not necessary -- the adhesive will stabilize it. The other side looks fairly normal -- not displaced. Do I need to unscrew the cam column bolt for the MD or do anything at all to it or just leave it be? Leave it. This repair won't hinder the future replacement of any cam column hardware correct? Correct. Should I clean and prep the surround surfaces first? Lightly scuff/clean with Isopropyl alcohol? See above. |
Author: | niswanger [ Tue Jul 17, 2018 5:46 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Roadrunner wrote: |
Author: | niswanger [ Fri Jul 20, 2018 5:57 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Okay, no instructions...how in the heck do I use the tube plungers? |
Author: | Dr.SteelheadCatcher [ Fri Jul 20, 2018 6:39 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
From Roadrunners information above, he used a "dowel-plunger" that the depth into the cylinder was marked, so you get the exact amount of both parts dispensed for mixing. |
Author: | Roadrunner [ Fri Jul 20, 2018 7:14 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
One little additional tip. The cap is a 90 degree twist. It comes subtly marked front and back. Don't put it on backwards or you may never get it open again once the adhesive sets! |
Author: | niswanger [ Sun Jul 22, 2018 6:16 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Roadrunner wrote: One little additional tip. The cap is a 90 degree twist. It comes subtly marked front and back. Don't put it on backwards or you may never get it open again once the adhesive sets! Good tip, but seriously, the package comes with a way to dispense the product? So I need to find or buy an appropriate sized down, graduate mark it and simply twist off the cap, then push in on one tube with dowel for a certain amount, then push in the other tube with dowel same amount? There's no hidden pull out dual plunger or something? WOW! |
Author: | Roadrunner [ Sun Jul 22, 2018 6:59 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Niswanger, you can buy the applicator and mixing nozzles for about $65 here: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-98472-Ca ... B000WXFJYW But you don't need to waste your money unless you're planning on using a lot of this stuff. If you have a stick or small tree limb lying around that fits within the barrels of the 3035, you've got this made! Check out the following pic: 1. Mark your stick in 1/2" increments. 2. Twist the cap off. 3. Plunge one barrel of your container about to the 1" or 1.5"mark (depends on the volume you need). 4. Plunge the other barrel the same distance. Keep the two fluids separate for now. When you start mixing, the 4 minute timer starts. 5. Wipe the tip on your cardboard and replace the cap on the 3035 (see wipe marks). 6. Mix. Let me re-emphasize, rehearse the insertion of your clamshell until you can do it without hanging up on something or losing your grip. This material does not allow for re-dos (once mixed). |
Author: | niswanger [ Sat Sep 01, 2018 4:10 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Stress Repair How-To |
Roadrunner wrote: Let me re-emphasize, rehearse the insertion of your clamshell until you can do it without hanging up on something or losing your grip. This material does not allow for re-dos (once mixed). Okay, I was about to dive in today and glue this all up but I'm more patient these days. First want to share how I have stress-relaxed my heavily broken stbd cam column into more vertical stock position and how I will hold it in place while this sets up. I used two allen wrenches in the column bolts and a loop of rope twisted with a socket extension. Just to the right about of tension to pull the lower end of the cam bolt more outboard, thus straightening the column. See pic below. But, now that I have "rehearsed" this procedure, I have to ask, what's the method behind the madness of smearing epoxy onto the clam shell PVC? Do you put more at the top end while holding horizontal and then swiftly and quickly put it around the column and hold in place? More at the top because gravity will pull most downward? What if I devised a way to zip tie the PVC and then use a stick and apply more uncured adhesive at the top and allow it to make contact with any uncured squeeze-out? Notice how they are more straight? |
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