Hobie Forums

New Tandem and First Mod
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Author:  obbm [ Sun Jul 01, 2007 6:54 pm ]
Post subject:  New Tandem and First Mod


We just bought a new Tandem/Oasis after lots of consideration. We had previously owned a Monocat (in 1978) and bought a new Hobie 18 in 1979, so we knew we were getting quality. We love the new boat. I have attempted to post a picture using Imageshack. The picture is of a tiller modification I made after one use. I had to reach an uncomfortable distance to use the existing tiller, and having sailed a lot of small boats using a regular tiller, the movement was unnatural to me. I grabbed a piece of plastic pipe, notched it for the tiller tab, and put a stainless bolt down through it and the tiller. MUCH easier and instinctive to use.

This forum is a wonderful resource.

After previewing, I see the picture has posted. Good!


Author:  kepnutz [ Sun Jul 01, 2007 7:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Hi Ya OB Wan

Hi Ya OBee Wan :lol:
Welcome to the board.. I have a tandem as well..its a great kayak boat and we really like it a lot.
I think your mod is fantastic..it looks like you pull it toward you to steer left and push it out to steer right just like a regular sailing vessel tiller would if Im not mistaken that is.. :oops:
Im also not sure what kind of pipe it is or exactly how its attached because the picture shows the end result and not the steps to get there but its a great mod regardless. If you have any more good one's please let er rip and post away.
Thank You
Have Fun ..Happy Fourth..

Author:  obbm [ Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:47 am ]
Post subject: 

Kepnutz, thanks for the welcome and kind comments.

Here are some more pictures of the tiller handle. I used a piece of 1/2 inch schedule 80 pipe, an electrician friend says it is conduit, I used it because it was a good color. Sawed a slot on the bottom and drilled and countersunk for a #10 oval head stainless screw and Nylok nut, though the tiller. The slot is a snug fit on the tiller. I heated the handle with a heat gun and bent it down a little.

The other two pictures are a wrench I made for the drive locking cams. I have beginning arthritis in my hands and am losing my grip. The dealer said they have to be tight, but reading some posts here I think they don't have to be as tight as he said. The tool is made of 1/2 inch thick plastic (feels like Delrin), and 5/16 and 1/2 round aluminum stock, pinned together with 3/32 roll pins.



Author:  obbm [ Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:52 am ]
Post subject: 

I am new to the photos. It took a few tries to get the pictures the right size and location, thanks to my wife, the computer whiz.



Author:  gwiz [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:00 am ]
Post subject: 

Bill a big Thank-you for coming up with the rudder handle mod. :D It looks to be exactly what I have been trying to figure out how to accomplish.

I have an Island and like to sit up high and steer with my foot but it is difficult and hard on the toes. I also always go the wrong way first. I have finally trained my hand but can't seem get through to the foot.


Author:  obbm [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:36 am ]
Post subject: 

Gwiz- you can make the tiller handle longer in either direction if you like. For me, it removed the wrong direction problem I had, same as you describe.

On the cam wrench, I forgot to mention, my boat has the cams fastened with socket head screws. The little nub in the center of the wrench fits in the socket head and centers the wrench on the cam lock. If you have hex headed bolts, either don't make it with the nub, or change the bolts to socket heads.


Author:  kepnutz [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:49 am ]
Post subject: 

Hi Ya OBee Wan .
Thanks for the step by step on the tiller mod and the really cool tool. You now have to find a way to attach a hiking stick (hot stick) to your new tiller so all the A.I. people can have a way to hike out in strong winds and still steer the boat without having to furl up the sail so much. 8)
I also have some arthur's-eyetis in my left paw after a I got ran over on my bike from behind by a 1955 4dr Buick going 60mph back in '81. I may try a tool like this if things get worse..
.........Thank you
.................Happy Fourth

Author:  gwiz [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:49 am ]
Post subject: 

I don't really understand the need for a cam tightner. Mine is easy to turn until it hits its stops. I believe it is the bolts that need to be adjusted to where the cams make the drive snug but not so tight that a wrench is needed. You can over tighten them to where they strip the plastic threads.

Author:  obbm [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:46 am ]
Post subject: 


I had already forgotten (another age-related thing) why I needed the wrench.
My wife, who is younger, reminded me.

The new cams, with sharp detents, stuck in the locked position. Cold, old, wet, tired fingers couldn't easily loosen them. Now they have been off and on a few times, the detents are not so sticky, and the wrench probably won't see much use. However, it is small, rustproof, and easy to stow, so I will probably keep it handy.


Author:  gwiz [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:03 pm ]
Post subject: 

Bill your rudder handle mod worked great but now that the rudder can't overpower my amputated thumb it won't stay locked down even with a metal bolt that screws into the rudder about twice as far as the plastic one.

I guess I will have to drill it all the way through and put a nut on the other side and a screw up into the rudder pin to keep it from shearing.

The winds were only 10 gusting to 15 but everytime I would get up to 9mph when sailing on the swells the rudder would pop. I was about 10 miles out from the Ocean front and had to stop to relock down the rudder at least 20 times even though I was using less than 1/2 the sail.

It is a real pain to do in 6' swells plus I would drift a 1/4 mile north each time.

Author:  Roadrunner [ Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:13 pm ]
Post subject: 


Yakaholic and I both have rudder winglets. Funny thing is, neither of us can get our rudders to go up when under way, even with an effort! So if your rudder is popping up, you might try one. 8)

Author:  gwiz [ Wed Jul 04, 2007 3:27 am ]
Post subject: 

I already have twice the first one I only put 3/8" down angle on and it wasn't enought so I nearly doubled its size and put 3/4" down angle. Part of the problem could be the twist and stow rudder replacement I got after breaking mine.

Its lock down hole was about a 1/4 of the hole off. I had to enlarge it upward to get the screw to go in. Then the little plastic screw wouldn't hold at all, so I drilled it deeper and started using a metal one.

It seems to be speed related for some reason I can beat into the wind putting alot more pressure on it but only going 6 or 7 mph with no problem. It is when speed increases to about 9 mph even when sailing smoothly along a swell and not working the rudder much at all. The first one I made would pop at 7+ mph.

It is extremely aggravating to do while being pounded by 6'+ swells. I guess I need to start wearing goggles and a snorkle.


Author:  norman ernsting [ Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:55 am ]
Post subject: 

Hey gwiz!

Are you saying that even with the winglet and using the lock down screw or bolt, that your rudder is still popping up at higher speeds? How can the rudder pop up if the screw is engaged? BTW, that tiller extention mod is a great idea!


Author:  gwiz [ Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:21 am ]
Post subject: 

How can the rudder pop up if the screw is engaged?

Beats the Hell out of me. My hole is elongated because of it not lining up but I made it so that it was going nearly through anyway. If it is flexing that much , 1 1/4" ,I would rather lock it tight to relieve the stress. It will probably just shear my rudder pin though.

The handle mod is fantastic :D ,it really makes a world of difference being able to grab and control the rudder with your whole hand, instead of working the S#IT out of your thumb for 6 to 8 hours.

I stuck a poolnoodle under my sprayshield to keep the center high and it seemed to really work well at keeping it from swamping and digging in. I am headed out for more testing, which is looking good 15mph forcasted for the whole day.

If I had lights on my Island and didn't have to work tomorrow I would sail into downtown Norfolk to watch them set off fireworks from barges out in the river.


Author:  Roadrunner [ Wed Jul 04, 2007 2:39 pm ]
Post subject: 

gwiz wrote:
I already have twice the first one I only put 3/8" down angle on and it wasn't enought so I nearly doubled its size and put 3/4" down angle. Part of the problem could be the twist and stow rudder replacement I got after breaking mine.

My winglet is set at 0 degrees angle of attack or essentially horizontally. I think Yak's is also, though I'm not sure. Don't know if that makes a difference or not.

Also, I'm not sure the winglet would be effective on the new rudder (in terms of holding the blade down). In fact, the more forward position might very well work against you here. In my thinking, the winglet must be behind the rotating axis of the rudder -- have not tried it though. 8)

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