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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2018 2:24 pm
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I am refurbishing a '74 hobie 16 to learn to sail with my wife and friends (I sailed mono hull keel boats with my dad when I was a kid, but have never owned a "wet" boat). I replaced the shrouds as they had several strands frayed, but now I have excessive mast rake to the point that I can't connect the fore stay to the bridle (approximately six inches to close the gap). I used a short line to bridge the gap and put up the jib to tension the rig, but could not get significantly closer, and the mast would not fully rotate because of clearance issues caused by the mast angle. After closer inspection I found the new shrouds to be approximately 3" shorter than the old ones. I'm sure if I did the trigonometry and accounted for all the angles, that probably translates to the extreme rake angle and the missing 6 inches of fore stay. Ok... sorry about the long description... but I want to be clear. My boat has the old single hole style mast tang, it looks like the new 3 hole style would drop the fore stay attachment point a couple of inches and potentially solve my problems, but I'm wondering if the rivet holes will line up, I'm not interested in drilling a bunch of new holes in an area on the mast that sees so much stress. My other idea was to replace the 7 hole shroud adjusters with 10 hole fore stay adjusters.... I'm betting Im not the first to experience this, so what had been done by others?

Thanks,

Joe


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 3:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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The newer tang would be placed so the main shackle is at the same height. You gain an additional hole to mount the trapeze wires up at the top hole... hoop of the shackle passes through the large center hole.

New shrouds are much shorter than what was on old boats. You can place higher in the side adjusters... maybe make the side adjusters 10 holes. Add an extra 10 hole adjuster to make the forestay reach.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:38 pm 
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mmiller wrote:
The newer tang would be placed so the main shackle is at the same height. You gain an additional hole to mount the trapeze wires up at the top hole... hoop of the shackle passes through the large center hole.


Does that mean the new tang rivet holes don"t match the old holes? If so a new tang doesn't solve my issue at all because there is so much rake that the cannot rotate to the mast to the stops.

Am I safe to assume that there was a major change in the rig geometry at some point?

And if so, does that mean a different mast bast and or mast step were used to get so much rake... and that a new forestay is significantly longer than what came on older boats?

Are there any resources describing the dimesnsion/differences in rigging.... tang position, stay and shroud lengths, mast step angle... etc.?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 9:09 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
There have been a number of minor design changes and refinements to the Hobie 16 over the past 40+ years. I would not expect many 2018 components to be plug-n-play on a 1976 boat. All of the components involved in your mast rake issue (mast base, mast step, shroud length, tang design) have been changed over the years to some degree.

Your best bet is probably to either install longer shroud adjusters as previously recommended or, if you still have the old shrouds, have a shop make up a new custom pair to the original length. I know APS makes custom rigging and I'm pretty sure Murrays can do it too. Either of these options will allow you to stand the mast more upright to match the original design.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 9:47 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2018 2:24 pm
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Thanks for the replies... I ordered some 10 hole shroud adjusters to start, I will see how close that gets me.


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