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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 6:29 am 
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Matt/Jacques/anyone from Hobie,

I've been sailing my new T2 for a few weekends now and have three questions. FYI, it was a 2014 purchased from a dealer this spring, supposedly used for 1 demo day by the dealer last fall.

1) I've noticed I get more water in the hulls on my new T2 than I did on my 70's '14. Is this normal? If I'm out for an hour or two, maybe a half gallon-gallon per hull. The plugs/seals appear to be in fine condition. Nothing obvious. I'll check the rear inspection port to see if the plugs or bolts for the rudder pintles are leaking next time I put it in the water I suppose. Any other places to check?

2) Mast base pin. In or out? The manual says out, but Getaway, and I believe Wave say to leave it in right? Is there a a reason for the discrepancy? I've left it in for now and haven't had any issues, but would like your opinion if possible.

3) Is there any reason the Solo righting system (shroud extenders) for the H17 (or another model) wouldn't work with the T2? I'm just too light to right it myself when I tried in the shallows, so I'm weighing my options on righting systems at this point (pole, extenders, bucket).

The boat is a blast by the way!

Thanks for your time,
John

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 1:21 pm 
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While they're at it and assuming they see your post, I wonder if a Hobie employee could give me the part numbers for the larger Gennaker and the Asymetrical Spinnaker that work with the T2. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 8:53 am 
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We have been out for the past 5 weeks. 4 at the Hobie 16 Worlds in China and then some personal time...

I'll have a look and get back to you in a bit.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 11:01 am 
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coreboarder wrote:

1) I've noticed I get more water in the hulls on my new T2 than I did on my 70's '14. Is this normal? If I'm out for an hour or two, maybe a half gallon-gallon per hull. The plugs/seals appear to be in fine condition. Nothing obvious. I'll check the rear inspection port to see if the plugs or bolts for the rudder pintles are leaking next time I put it in the water I suppose. Any other places to check?


Try a soapy water air pressure test as shown in the sailing FAQ. Check crossbar mounting bolts and any hardware attachment points... hatches etc. http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=169

Quote:
2) Mast base pin. In or out? The manual says out, but Getaway, and I believe Wave say to leave it in right? Is there a a reason for the discrepancy? I've left it in for now and haven't had any issues, but would like your opinion if possible.

If no ring to hold the pin in place... I would remove. If any standing rigging fails it also limits damage.

Quote:
3) Is there any reason the Solo righting system (shroud extenders) for the H17 (or another model) wouldn't work with the T2? I'm just too light to right it myself when I tried in the shallows, so I'm weighing my options on righting systems at this point (pole, extenders, bucket).

Yes, the kit for a similar model would work. You would want the pin in the base for using a shroud extender system to hold the base to the ball.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 11:18 am 
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mmiller wrote:
If no ring to hold the pin in place... I would remove. If any standing rigging fails it also limits damage.


Thanks for the reply Matt. What do you mean by no ring? The pin has a ring on one end and a little ball on the pin on the other. Do you mean a pin like that or a pin with rings on both ends?

I'm thinking I'll only leave the pin in if I go with the shroud extender righting option.

Thanks again,
John

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past: 1974 H14


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 11:43 am 
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I gave a more generic answer. If a "captive" pin type... you can leave it in. Some boat models pins have split rings on each end, some the spring ball... some boats have no keeper, so should be removed.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 5:17 pm 
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Location: Pinellas county Florida
1) I have no leakage whatsoever on my T2. The guys at Tackle Shack did a great assembly job. Matt's suggestion that it may be leaking at hardware connections concerns me that the assembly procedures may not be consistent. Remember my question about torque values for the bolts?

2) The spherical ball bearing on the mast post popped off th last time I tried to raise it by myself. Turns out the internal threads were stripped. I made a temporary fix by shimming it. This shouldn't b an issue underway, however, it's a (censored) trying to find the bearing underwater when it pops off.

3) After figuring out how to handle the T2, I haven't come close to capsizing or pitchpoling it. It is relatively easy to control the power generated by th sail, and the excellent reserve buoyancy prevents pitchpoling. The bows pop up quickly when they go under.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:11 am 
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1) The leaking appears to have been caused by over tightening the plugs and/or debris near the seal. I've been going with not nearly as tight of plugs and haven't had the leaking issue since. I also cleaned out some left over debris near the threads from what I assume was the molding process. I would love to know torque values though. I'm going to be disassembling the boat for winter storage. Planning to build a rack to put the hulls and other pieces on the wall of my garage and still leave room for vehicles. It would be great to know torque settings for reassembly next spring.

2) I've left the pin in all summer, no issues (mast up storage).

3) For a righting system, I got the Big Bag from Murray's about a month ago. I haven't actually tried it out yet though, but plan to before the end of the season. Where I live (on Lake Superior) there is very minimal boat traffic, and depending on if I sail towards town or away from my home I may or may not reach the coast guard with my handheld VHF. So making sure I can recover in a worst case scenario is essential. I agree the boat is easy enough to prevent a capsize if you're paying attention. Even pushing it to and flying a hull I think I've only come close to capsize once. I was actually pretty amazed how high the hull went and it still didn't tip over in a big gust. I'll update again when I get around to testing it.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 12:10 pm 
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Just wanted to leave an update in here that I tried out my righting bag in the shallows this weekend. The winds off shore were high, but it is protected with next to no wind where I tried out the bag. I'm 5'6" 150lbs tops, and was able to right my T2 solo using the "Murray's big bag". It took me a couple tries to get the water weight, and height of the bag off the water right (not too heavy I couldn't get my weight out, and not so low the bag dragged in the water before the boat could come all the way past the balance point). Once I had that set the boat popped up.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 4:05 pm 
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I've been thinking about torque values for the crossbar bolts. In this case, the calculation is not governed by the strength of the bolt and threaded insert, but the type and strength of bond between the insert and the polyethelene hull. The insert's design would have a big impact on the strength, and I cant tell by looking. The only way I see to determine the correct torque value would be to test one until it fails. Short of that, you could measure the current torque values, tighten all the bolts to the same value, and recheck them annually as recommended by the warning sticker that came with the boat when new. This is what I plan to do at the next opportunity.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 11:13 am 
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Location: Erie on Lake Erie, PA
Can you let us know what that torque value is? The French (the Tatoo designers) must know it because they've been putting Tatoos together for years.
This year will be the second winter I disassemble the boat for winter storage and I didn't check the original torque when I bought it this time last year. I wonder if the dealer knew what the torque should be because they assemble post shipping, I think.
So, some ballpark torque numbers would be good!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 11:36 am 
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I will, however, because you are disassembling the bolts, you could just as easily measure the torque required to remove them. I would recommend matching that torque value when you reassemble the boat next year.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 12:06 pm 
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I tried to measure the bolt torque yesterday with a calibrated mechanical wrench, but the torque was less than the minimum setting of 10 ft. lbs. on the wrench. I'll try again with a smaller wrench.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 6:10 am 
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Will keep an eye out! If I measure the torque while loosening later this fall, I'll just be measuring how much torque I applied during post-winter assembly this past spring. That torque was "good and snug" with the bolts marked to retighten later if they showed any signs of loosening - but no loosening all summer as I had a drop of Loctite on the threads. So, I can always use my spring 2016 torque!
Just had two energetic afternoons of solo-sailing in 15-18 mph winds this weekend without a trapeze!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 3:41 pm 
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amfoyle wrote:
Can you let us know what that torque value is? The French (the Tatoo designers) must know it because they've been putting Tatoos together for years.
This year will be the second winter I disassemble the boat for winter storage and I didn't check the original torque when I bought it this time last year. I wonder if the dealer knew what the torque should be because they assemble post shipping, I think.
So, some ballpark torque numbers would be good!


We have never used Torque wrenches / settings on any assembly at Hobie Cat.

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