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Moving Bridle wires
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Author:  buxton [ Mon Sep 03, 2018 4:03 am ]
Post subject:  Moving Bridle wires

So, here is where I'm at with the 16 sail swap. It was such a performance difference with the bigger sail, I spent the money on a set, Tortola, nice and new, looks like a Tide commercial.
Now I need to make the jib fit and work right, therefore the bridle wire new moved forward. I set it up using my girlfriend jib and to get it right, it need to be right out front like the 16 is. I want this boat to last me a long time hoping it's the last I buy so the stress factor has to be minimal.
I'm trying to come up with a mount for the front. I don't want to use the genneker pole because it's also the forestay and if the pole gives out it becomes instantly longer and risk demasting so it has to be moved. What ever I come up with, I'll try to have made out of aluminum but I'm using steel and plastic for mounting ideas and I'm open to suggestions. I'm not an engineer and tend to over build rather than under build.
A 4" pipe fits tight in the handle hole and should distribute pulling pressure of any mounting bolts going thought it. The bracket on top with bridle wire holes, I think, should extend forward the handle hole so, I think, it should extend rearward to push downward on the hull as the front pulls upward, like a seesaw would. I can also see adding another but smaller spreader bar between what ever mounts I come up with.
After it's figured out, I will print a ABS hydro-dynamic cover to cut down resistance then it goes under water. And could add foils if needed.

Author:  AntonLargiader [ Tue Sep 04, 2018 3:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Moving Bridle wires

What's the size difference between the two jibs?

Author:  buxton [ Tue Sep 04, 2018 4:35 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Moving Bridle wires

It's a big difference when you set them out but I don't know the exact area. If I don't move forward then I'd have go through the tramp like an 18 and that's not happening. When sailing the T2 jib, it's so short, it's to sensitive. I find adjustments have to be made a cm. I also think a traveler for the jib cleat would be beneficial in fine tuning it.
I have to say, I'm liking the boat's performance more and more. Before, on average, if we had 10-12mph and I set out on the same reach as a 16, they would make a mile and tack, I would be 1/2 way and tack. Some times they'd even pass me going back.
This past weekend, new sail same jib in 8-12s it was 30-40 yards at best. Boat and myself were about 180lbs heavier than the 16 and she had a hull out of the water longer than I did so that's an improvement. Last weekend I got out once by myself and was able to lift the hull up and maintain a long, high fly.

I also have to deal with mast rotation as the T2 has no stops. The original mainsheet pulls back on the boom-less sail and keeps it set at what ever the tension is. Right now for testing, I'm using a rope around the cleat on the front of the mast and the two genneker cleats on the front cross bar. It works but not ideal.

Author:  mmiller [ Wed Sep 05, 2018 9:28 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Moving Bridle wires

Just understand (likely you do already) that you are outside the design of the boat and are placing unintended loads on parts of the boat. We can't help you if something fails.

Author:  buxton [ Wed Sep 05, 2018 9:37 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Moving Bridle wires

I fully understand that Matt, this is all me.

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