floatation blocks waterlogged

the big foam blocks in the port hull seem pretty water logged, prob been like that for years. this is the hull that the board trunk is leaking. so, i am sure a steady supply of water. these are "V" block looking type things.
Anyways, when i lift it, it seems pretty heavy. i don't really think it would dry out any time soon. i can break it apart and get it out of there. questions is. has anyone come up with a substitute that will go through the port opening, yet be big enough to float that side of the boat when the bow section of the hull falls off? 1978 boat.
Git Rot is on the way for the trunk repair, a deck soft spot.

I believe the only options are to try and dry out the block (for months, in a hot & dry environment with fans), or remove it. Many sailors concerned about weight do remove the block completely, but it's illegal to do so if you plan to race in a Hobie class. Originally, these blocks were contained in plastic bags to keep the water out and keep the fumes from eating the foam when the glass was first laid up. The bag eventually disintegrates, which leaves a mess in the hull, and allows the foam blocks to absorb water and add a lot of weight to the boat. As far as putting foam floatation back in, I haven't heard of any good solutions or anyone attempting it. Not sure the block that's in there would float the hull at this point, and any other foam blocks are likely to be susceptible to the same problem.

If you want to drive yourself nuts, I believe the mythbusters have had some luck floating boats with ping pong balls!

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Mike

'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238

Pool noodles.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

thank you. the ping pong balls would spread out and show accident site from satellite, i like that. but i do see where pool noodles would work better.
thanks.

I just bought a used Hobie and in the process of restoring them. i have been around boats for years. I took the tramp frame apart to separate the hulls so it is easier to work on. The port hull was twice as heavy as the starboard hull. I put in a inspection plate in the middle of the hull which will also be for a storage bag. I split the styro block in have as you cannot remove due to regs. I then took my heat gun and placed it in the opening on low, making sure it was not facing the styro as it does not take much to start a fire. It was dried out in a couple of hours and the weight was the same as the other hull. I made sure the heat gun was held in place so I didn't have to hold it.

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Stay Safe and always have a float plan. James

well after, 24 hrs of heat gun set on low, raised and separated the 2 blocks, then 2 days of just a high volume fan. the blocks are much lighter, now just waiting for git rot, to seal up the board trunks, and to fix soft spot on the deck. i think we'll be okay here. just missed one of the nicest weeks of sailing this year though.

Here's some thoughts on drying out the foam blocks on your boat....As Hobie 18 owners we have an advantage over the 16's, in that we already have nice sized portholes in our hulls to vent moisture. Every winter I store my boat with the bows elevated on a tri-pod. The hull plugs are very loose to let any liquid water that might manage to get in some hole, say around a crossbar or other fitting, drain readily, but still in the holes to keep mice from entering, as they are now very close to the ground. ( I have observed mice exiting and entering the hull plug holes on boats stored in my marina, so don't think they can't get in there). The hull covers are off and the holes covered by loose home made rain diverters and also screened to keep the mice and insects from entering there too. The extremely low humidity of the many northern winter days, (you know the ones when the humidity is so low that you get static shocks when you walk acros the living room carpet) will suck that moisture out of there, and at least give you dry hulls to start out every spring. Doesn't work in the deep south, and it doesn't work quickly.
I have heard 16's that are very tightly sealed up and sitting in the sun, "woosh" when the hull plugs are removed. If your boat is that tight, you'd better hope there is never even a teaspoon of water inside when you store it like that, because then you will have high humidity air under pressure in your hull, and that is the best way I can think of to impregnate not only the foam blocks, but even the fiberglass laminations deeply with what is essentially STEAM, and that's a perfect recipe for delamination, IMHO it is the major factor causing hull delamination, although 30 years of UV undoubtedly takes a toll on uncovered boats.
I also know friends who store their boats bows up with the portholes completely uncovered all year, letting the rain enter and run out the drain holes. The one guy was an engineer that used to say " It's not the water that gets in your hull that causes problems, it's the water that can't get out". I agree with him completely, I just modified his plan to exclude pests too...

My 18 sits on a beach, always vented. I put in 5" ports behind the rear crossbar. Then I purchased extra port covers and used PVC pipe, 90 and 45 deg fittings, screen and openings pointed at a angle. Drill a hole in the covers and glue and silicone your pipe into them. Switch the vent covers out to solid port covers to go sailing. Dry boat = no de-lamination & lightweight.

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1989 Hobie 18 Worlds Boat, Magnum Wings & Spinnaker
1987 Hobie Holder 20 #273

dale.vanlopik"at"att"dot"net

Replace foam blocks with air bags, not legal but much lighter

Try 2 litter soda bottles. Free and last forever.