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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2016 4:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2016 3:22 pm
Posts: 23
Location: West Virginia
I don't know how to post photos in here or I would. The guys down under in OZ are taking two H18 main sheet travelers and fabricating them into one wide traveler. They say it moves much smoother, and I'm sure we can all agree the stock traveler isn't that great. The hard part is fabricating a new attachment plate that looks just like the old one but twice as wide. Is anyone doing this in the USA? I have no idea where I can get stainless steel fabricated. Guess it's time to start googling. I hate my traveler. I lube it and it doesn't help. I once rrplaced the bearings. The guys in OZ are using no bearings. They are using 4 of the barrels instead.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 9:55 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:27 pm
Posts: 133
Location: FL
I don't think it would be hard to make a new plate to cover both travelers. You just bend a flat piece of stainless and drill some holes in it. Wouldn't even need to weld anything.

As long as you grease the existing traveler track every now and then the stock traveler should work good enough.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16, 2016 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2013 2:43 am
Posts: 266
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Hey Daniel i've very keen to go one or both ways hey from the facebook post. My rear beam is in great condition but with age obviously flexes to a point where the barrels can move straight out. I like the idea of running slightly larger machined barrels but if I can get myself another 2nd hand traveler i will go to a machine shop to have the stainless steel plate made up.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2016 3:22 pm
Posts: 23
Location: West Virginia
I just bought a second traveller on eBay. I really would like a smoother operation of the traveller so I hope this is the trick. I've always thought it was a weak point in function on the 18. After giving it some thought, it should be quite simple to turn two into one large traveller.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 9:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 2:15 pm
Posts: 1196
Location: Oakland, CA
Before getting too crazy, use 220 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the traveler track, then wipe it clean. That worked for my sticky traveler.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 610
Location: Buffalo, NY
I dunno about sanding anodized aluminum, I'd be nervous about taking off the coating. But I suppose you're just suggesting a light sanding to smooth out any bumps or grittiness and let it slide easier. Just makes me nervous. :lol:

While I agree that the stock traveller is probably one of the more frustrating design points of the Hobie 18, it was designed to be simple and cost effective, so I guess we can't complain too much. It's never really worked 100% smoothly for me, and I've usually had to help it along, but I think that was just a part of what they figured would be a part of the experience of sailing a Hobie 18. Or maybe they didn't realize it'd be as troublesome as it is. In terms of weak points in the design, I think the old mast step, original mast rotator, and the stock downhaul are up there in my list of complaints. But I guess those all have easy fixes.

I'm a little curious how you plan on combining the two travellers. When you say "one large traveller," I assume you're implying that the "narrow" width of the original traveller and narrow distance between the bearings is partly to blame for all the sticking? I tend to think it's more of the amount of/direction of force. When most of the force is in the vertical and very little in the transverse, I think it's no wonder the thing doesn't slide well. All that force is just increasing the friction between the bearings and the traveller track.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 4178
Location: Jersey Shore
There needs to be a balance between too much friction and too little because you actually need there to be some friction. On the Hobie 20, they used a Harken ball bearing traveler with very low friction. Of course the traveler moved outboard very easily, but the flip side was that if you were traveled out and tried to sheet in hard on the main, you would end up pulling the entire traveler and mainsheet stack towards you, which in some ways is just as bad as the traveler not moving out.

Personally, I think the stock H18 traveler system works pretty well. I run with two slugs and pretty much just give the track a shot of silicone spray before hitting the water and it seems to operate just fine.

sm


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 11:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2014 7:22 am
Posts: 51
srm wrote:
There needs to be a balance between too much friction and too little because you actually need there to be some friction. On the Hobie 20, they used a Harken ball bearing traveler with very low friction. Of course the traveler moved outboard very easily, but the flip side was that if you were traveled out and tried to sheet in hard on the main, you would end up pulling the entire traveler and mainsheet stack towards you, which in some ways is just as bad as the traveler not moving out.

Personally, I think the stock H18 traveler system works pretty well. I run with two slugs and pretty much just give the track a shot of silicone spray before hitting the water and it seems to operate just fine.

sm


I would agree with this as well. I have another cat with ball bearing traveler and if you do not ease the mainsheet the traveler will not go out. So if your main is in too tight it will actually prevent the main from going out. I use Super Lube in a tube (like a clear grease) to keep the traveler lubed up. Then I have no issues with the traveler.

Good Luck


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