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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 5:37 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:13 am
Posts: 33
Location: France
I've checked and it looks like all the parts are still in OK shape. The black plastic hook looks exactly like the one on the left side - nothing broken or worn down. The only piece I can adjust now seems to be the screw on top / outside the cast part. Any knowledge what direction I have to go (more forward / more backward)?

Thanks in advance.

Stefan

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 8:17 am 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 1:12 pm
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https://www.hobie.com/articles/rudder-tuning,87/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jfn8f93XiQ&ab_channel=JosephBennett found this vid on youtube where the guy services and adjusts a H16 style setup - (H18 would be the same process on with a slightly different casting set)

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 8:45 am 
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Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
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Location: Buffalo, NY
While I'm not all that familiar with the newer style rudder castings with the plastic cams and all, I would recommend buying a rudder return kit from Murray's sports. Even if your rudder system gives you trouble, the bungie will keep your rudders down unless you hit something. I bought it for my rudder system to get rid of the slop between the upper and lower rudder castings and tighten up rudder response in my older style steering system. It's actually a pretty significant improvement in terms of reduced slop and much improved rudder response!

It's all I use to keep my rudders down anymore, as the older style springs are no longer available, and I always kept the pressure so light on them that the screws & springs both fell out a year ago mid-sail. I didn't even notice they were gone until a few outings later.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:16 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
If the rudder is kicking up but the cam is not rotating (i.e., the cam is staying in the "locked down" position), then you need to adjust the slider plate in the upper casting. Lock the rudder in the "down" position. Loosen the hex bolt in the upper casting. Slide the bolt (and plate) as far forward as it will go. Then tighten the bolt. Check the system function. Note that if you make any changes to your rudder rake, you will need to perform the above procedure.

If the rudder is kicking up and the cam is rotating properly, then you need to increase the cam spring pre-load. This is done by simply tightening the large plastic screw in the lower casting. If the screw is frozen, there are plenty of threads which already discuss how to remove it. Note that if you tighten the cam spring too much, the cam won't rotate properly. It is a balancing act that takes some trial and error. Bring a large screw driver out on the water with you to make adjustments. Lubricating with grease between the plunger and the cam also helps.

I'm also a fan of the rudder return kit (essentially just a couple fancy washers and some bungee cord). The kit allows you to increase the rudder hold down force without increasing the spring load on the cam, so there is less of a chance of the cam not rotating properly. This is particularly beneficial if you kick your rudders up when racing, or if you sail somewhere that has a lot of seaweed in the water.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 2:27 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 10:13 am
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Location: France
Thanks a lot everybody. I'll see what I can do by adjusting the plate befoer ordering bungee-cords from the US (it must be possible to find something alike here in Europe...)

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Last edited by Stefan S on Wed Jun 14, 2017 11:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:30 am 
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Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
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Location: Buffalo, NY
It's just a bungie that goes around the rudder pin and rudder, pulling the rudder tight to the pin/lower casting. the little plastic "flared" washers aren't even really all that necessary if you slide the bungie down the rudder a little after kicking them down, though they do make it work a little better. srm had found some metal flare washers at one point I believe. You may be able to find them or something like them at a hardware store.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 9:10 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
Kisme Kleet (available from Murrays) plus bungee cord. I also recommend using a plastic hook on the bungee so it can be un-hooked from the rudder pin when not in use. Otherwise the bungee cord will wear out very quickly. You're probably looking at about $20 total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 2:15 pm
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Location: Oakland, CA
Check the allen bolts holding the crossbars to the hulls are tight and not stripped. Inside the crossbar is a cast aluminum block into which the bolt screws, and if it isn't tight then there will be just enough separation between the hulls and crossbar when under heavy load to cause the rudder cams to release the rudder.

It happened to me. For two seasons my starboard rudder kicked up under load and nothing done to the castings would fix it. I went through plungers and cams regularly, and kept a 1/2" nut driver and large flathead screwdriver handy to make adjustments and repairs, and couldn't figure it out. A Hobie dealer noticed the hull/crossbar separation while he was skippering my boat from the trapeze, and since replacing the broken casting inside the rear crossbar the rudder has performed as expected.


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